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  1. #1
    Newbie
    Posts
    1

    suzuki 1400 cylinder problem..when cold

    My 2000 suzuki 1400 has always had a problem. I have had it worked on several times. It still seems to fire on only one cylinder when cold. Running down the highway at full speed is fine, though.
    Help???

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  3. #2
    Newbie
    Location
    Martinsburg, WV
    Posts
    9

    suzuki 1400 cylinder problem..when cold

    I had a problem with my 96 Intruder vs1400gl when it was cold. I traced it to a non functioning choke. On this year the choke cable routes around the front air filter and splits into two cables - one makes a 90 degree turn and activates the choke mechanism of the front carb - the other continues on to the back carb. The front carb choke plunger was binding and the result was no choking at all. It may be that one of your carbs is being choked and the other not. Hence the one cylinder not firing when cold. Once the engine warms up that is not a consideration. With the warm weather coming it will be less of a problem.

    You will have to remove the chrome cover (right side front from the back of bike) and raise the tank to check this out.

    Hope this helps

    Gabe

  4. #3
    Newbie
    Location
    opelousas, louisiana
    Posts
    2

    Re: suzuki 1400 cylinder problem..when cold

    it sounds like you guys know what you are talking about. Ihave a 94 1400 with a lean back cylinder. It runs fine at speed but backfires through the back cylinder at idle. I need to know if the back carb has a idle air/fuel mixture screw. Any help would be greatly appreciated. P.S. the back plug is white.

  5. #4
    Newbie
    Location
    Martinsburg, WV
    Posts
    9

    Lean Back Cylinder

    Yes, there is an idle mixture adjustment screw on both of your carbs. The problem is that they are sealed at the factory with a hollow brass cap. If your carb is out of adjustment, I suspect they have already been removed.

    There is a procedure to remove these caps. There is a tiny hole in the end of the cap that seals the idle mixture screws on each carb. The procedure to remove the caps is to carefully drill a slightly larger hole, being careful not to damage the idle adjustment screw behind the cap. Insert a sheet metal screw in the hole and pull to remove the cap. This can be done easily without removing the seat or side covers IF you have real good eyes and a steady hand. To adjust the mixture you will need a long (6 to 8 inch) screw driver with a fine slotted tip that has been ground to about 3/16" wide. Usually the screws are set to about 2 1/2 turns out in the front and about 2 turns out in back. To know where they are you have to turn the adjustment screw in till it stops. Use very light finger pressure since if you turn them in hard you can damage the needle tip or seat. Then turn them back out to the suggested number of turns.


    I wouldn't want to steer you to a different forum but, there is a technical forum that covers this subject well.

    http://www.intruderalert.com/cafe/index.cfm


    There is a search feature there and you can find lots of info.

    It sounds as though you may need to synch your carbs and there is discussion about that also.

    Hope all this helps. I know how frustrating this can be.

    Keep your shiny side up!!!


    Gtruder


 

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