New bike more problems
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  1. #1
    Newbie
    My Bike(s)
    Marauder
    Posts
    4

    New bike more problems

    Bought a 2000 Marauder drove it home about a 50 minute drive. I tried the high beam light and they weren't much better than low beam. I was thinking I would have to get a new headlight or a kit 4 more visibility. On the last turn home my lights got really dim as well as the spedometer as I shifted down to pull into my drive I went from 3rd to 2nd and the bike squealed it's tire and died luckily I kept it up. I Tried to turn it over again but lights just dimmed with no sound. Frustrated I just put it in the garage and walked away the next morning I turn the key on and the lights were bright I got a couple clicks but no turn over I checked the battery its 14 Volt and all the fuses are good I checked the mmm module it had already been bypassed. I tried again got one click and nothing lights just dimmed. tried restarting it no click just dimming of lights. Rocked back and forth, no go. Roll start, negative start check for shorts I really haven't found anything without taking a lot of parts off I'm sure somebody has a good idea of what might be going on. I just found it very awkward and lucky I was right in my drive when it died after a 50 minute ride home. Had an individual that's a mechanic says it sounds like a stator issue. After reading a lot of post I found out that charging system is not the best on this motorcycle can anyone offer me a suggestion that would get read a lot of headaches, also heartache. Just got burned on a different bike. Afraid to take it to the shop to become you need this and this and also since it has 30000 miles we did this and this. Worked on a gsxr before when i was younger but im in a little bit of a different realm now. older and not remembering everything haha. Also found a switch on the left by the front forks is this an aux switch? signed one sad enthusiast.

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  3. #2
    Super Moderator

    My Bike(s)
    Vulcan 900, Can-AM Spyder
    Location
    Ocala, FL
    Posts
    10,947
    Welcome to the forum.

    Sounds to me like you NEED to find:
    A shop manual
    A "friend" who is good with gas engines
    Or a competent independent shop.

    Some battery system basics:
    If the stator is bad (or the R/R) causing the changing system not to charge........the battery will NOT measure 14 volts. You won't really know about the charging system until the bike runs again but at this point it would be a HUGE mistake to start throwing charging system parts at it.

    Your symptoms all point to a battery that is failing under load OR to a bad connection at one end of a main battery cable.
    You NEED to check voltages at places other than the battery posts......but having the battery load tested would be a good first step; or if you suspect it's over 5 years old, just replace it. New batteries MUST be manually charged before the first use.

    And finally, jumping from another vehicle battery (with the vehicle NOT running) can tell you a lot about what is going on too.

    Good luck.
    Don't believe everything that you think.

  4. #3
    Newbie
    My Bike(s)
    Marauder
    Posts
    4
    You're right bad battery in multimeter. Battery is fully charged. Bike started right up hooked to the car battery. Unhooked jumper cables and lights dimmed way down and died about ten seconds after unhooked. Got a guy I work with coming over next weekend that knows alot more than me . Any more thoughts now? Downloaded pdf file of bike last night to look through . Got a book ordered

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  6. #4
    Super Moderator

    My Bike(s)
    Vulcan 900, Can-AM Spyder
    Location
    Ocala, FL
    Posts
    10,947
    Quote Originally Posted by Unluckchuck View Post
    You're right bad battery in multimeter. Battery is fully charged.
    SIGH.

    I was NOT talking about the battery in the multimeter.

    Automotive batteries can be "fully charged" but unable to give up that charge when asked to.

    Put a new battery in the meter.
    Measure at the battery posts.......then turn the bike ON, which I assume will turn the lights ON.
    IF the voltage at the battery posts goes down more than half a volt, odds are that the battery is BAD.
    If the voltage stays up on the posts but goes down on the cables, you have a bad connection.

    IF you don't want to do that, remove the battery and have it load tested.
    And while it's out, clean the posts and connectors on the cable ends.

    What you are describing is pretty much the classic symptoms of a battery going bad.
    It appears to charge up good but fails under load.
    Don't believe everything that you think.

  7. #5
    Administrator

    Posts
    150
    Yep....it's very common for a battery to show 12v, but be unable to provide any amperage to turn over the starter motor. Load tests can tell you a LOT. And they're quick, cheap and easy.

  8. #6
    Newbie
    My Bike(s)
    Marauder
    Posts
    4
    Haha I know you weren't talking about the multimeter. The battery in it was bad causing the reading to be off. Soon as I get to it tonight I should have an answer thanks for keeping up with me

  9. #7
    Newbie
    My Bike(s)
    Marauder
    Posts
    4
    After getting battery tested its all good. new rectifier is in order. Failed testing, went got a new one and runs like a champ. Thanks for the help

  10. #8
    Super Moderator

    My Bike(s)
    Vulcan 900, Can-AM Spyder
    Location
    Ocala, FL
    Posts
    10,947
    Only explanation for this is that the R/R was shorted out dragging the battery down.
    But if that was the case, I would think it would be SMOKING HOT.

    I'm glad you got it running but I'm not 100% convinced that the R/R is your only problem.
    Don't believe everything that you think.


 

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