M50 fiberglass rebaffle for low $$$ (merged)

[JerryC50T]

Long-time lurker, first time poster. Please be gentle.

First off, thanks to Jim and everyone else who's contributed to this thread. With each post the process seemed to make more sense as I went along. I now feel that I may actually be able to pull this off!

I've recently removed the baffles from my '06 C50. It definately sounds louder / deeper than the stock pipes but I'm left wanting more without having to spend $600+ for new pipes. My plan is to demickey, install the 6" fibrosleeve and check the sound. I may continue on and remove the third plate and install a full length fibrosleeve but I have a few questions before I commit.

1. How do you get the third plate out? Is there another option besides hammering it out? Hole saw with a monster extender maybe?

2. How long should the mesh be cut for a full fibrosleeve?

3. What do you use to mold / wrap the fibrosleeve when doing the full pipe? Couple of paint cans end to end?

Thanks!

[Motorcycle Forums]

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[diamond_jim]

Just realized something. My bike is still new. An 08 and I have extended warranty. Wouldn't this void it?

Does installing aftermarket pipes void the warranty? Not that I know of. I figure exhaust mods would void any warranty on the stock pipes, that is if there is a warranty on the pipes, but not void the warranty on the bike in general. I don't know of a case where someone debaffled and warranty work was denied because of the debaffle.

[CajunCountry]

How the heck do you DELETE a post?

[CajunCountry]

Got the Mickey's out! Had to go buy a 2 3/4" hole saw and a new battery charger to do it. But now I have 3 drills, 4 batteries, and 2 chargers so I'm sitting rather pretty for bigger jobs. My thumbs are a little tore up from the drill catching and trying to spin out of my hands. Damn that hurt! So I braced it on and in-between my knees. They too are pretty banged up (LOL), but no torn skin, just bruised.



Almost through the second mickey


Got it!



Oh Mickey's your so fine...



Damage to my hands (it hurts worse than it looks).




Things I've learned.

Make sure and clean (shopvac) out all the iron shavings from the muffler before rev'ing up the bike. Much easier to clean the shavings out of the pipe than after being sprayed out all over the garage.

The Fiber Pad from Home Depot DOES NOT WORK. I made the sleeves, installed them, and when I fired up the bike, the fibers just... you guessed it.... sprayed out all over my garage. LOL. Cleaned it all up with the shopvac yet agian! Gonna order the better fiberglass online.

[Zinje]

Did you use an extension with the 3 inch hole saw to take out mickey?

I am thinking about doing this over the weekend.

[diamond_jim]

The Fiber Pad from Home Depot DOES NOT WORK. I made the sleeves, installed them, and when I fired up the bike, the fibers just... you guessed it.... sprayed out all over my garage. LOL. Cleaned it all up with the shopvac yet agian! Gonna order the better fiberglass online.

LMAO just visualizing that. A lot of work for a confetti machine!.

Great job, though. That's the best looking demickey job I've seen. Although several companies offer fiberglass packing, this is by far the best stuff. I've got several months of proof, from daily use to pulling them in and out dozens of times. You can't go wrong with this stuff. And do the full length sleeve with this stuff. ebay- Moose muffler packing

Order 2 of them. They are 11" by 16". The ones I've been using are acutally 11 x 14 so I don't know it these are longer or a typo. Make them so that they sit about 2 inches from the back. Don't go all the way back or you'll block some of the exhaust coming out of that offset pipe in the very back. You might think that notching some of the fiberglass out to contour it just in front of that offset hole but it's difficult to line it up. Not impossible, but difficult. This is because a full length fibroseelve is easier to install when you can rotate it as you are sliding it in. Also, make it stop about 1-2" from the outside end of the pipe so it stays hidden. I forget the measurements but it will be about 14" in length. So with these, you may need to cut the length to about 14" and the width to maybe (don't quite remember) about 8". If you roll the fiberglass and overlap it to where once it is expanded in the pipe it's overlapped, don't do it more than about 1/2". I had been making several shorter ones before I went with the full length. When I did, I ordered 3 of these fiberglass pieces so that I had and extra one to play with. The shorter ones sound great but the longer ones sound much better.

[1badbaker]

Thanks for the Ebay link diamond. I almost ordered from the original link and then saw that shipping was ridiculous. I was getting ready to look on Ebay when I saw this link, saved a good amount with that. If the stuff arrives I should have everything done Monday when I'm off and I'll let you know what I think. As long as it sounds like your soundclips, I know I'll be happy.

[CajunCountry]

Did you use an extension with the 3 inch hole saw to take out mickey?

I used a 12" extender ($10 from Home Depot) and a 2 3/4" hole saw ($13) the 3" is too big, doh!.

Tips - If you are using a battery drill make sure it is fully charged, and have another ready to go. And watch those knuckles.

-The two "mickeys" are actually 1" tubes that run through that plate. You'll need to eat through those first before getting to the plate, and they have a tendency to stop-catch causing much pain to the knuckles.

[CajunCountry]

Great job, though. That's the best looking demickey job I've seen.

Man I appreciate that (so do my knuckles .


I have to do something about the engine noise coming through. It's quite annoying!

Also there is a "tapping" at the base of my skull. Sounds kinda weird, but I don't actually hear it, I feel it. If I pull in the clutch, it stops; so I know I'm not crazy. It's really noticable between 30-60 mph, which around here in these parts is pretty much the speeds that I drive.

Have you ever heard of this? I can't be alone.

Also did you need to undo the battery for rebooting? And I've read (somewhere in these thousands of posts) that there is something that might need to be removed/disconnected if you experience backfire. I think its inbetween the V looking thing (I'm so technical LOL) on the engine.

[diamond_jim]

I have to do something about the engine noise coming through. It's quite annoying! Have you ever heard of this? I can't be alone.

Your pipes are unmuffled now. They are free-flowing. You are hearing a mixture of 1) exhaust valve noises, 2) air pressure pulses, 3) air turbulence and 4) exhaust pipe resonance from 1, 2 and 3 combined.

That's why I developed the fibrosleeve. It absorbs the higher frequency noises and significantly reduces the resonance of the exhaust, leaving just the deep, low frequency sounds.

Also did you need to undo the battery for rebooting? And I've read (somewhere in these thousands of posts) that there is something that might need to be removed/disconnected if you experience backfire.

I've disconnected/reconnected the battery after a few mods just in case. Plus, many mods are better and more safely done with the battery disconnected anyways.

The backfire thing you are talking about is related to the PAIR valve. Do a search for PAIR valve or depaired. There are different levels of depairing that range from deactivating the PAIR valve system to removing it altogether.

[squale]

I am thinking of doing the debaffled, demickey and fibrosleeve on my 2006 M50.

my bike is completely stock so I have a few questions...

1.) If i do this will I need to put in a fuel processor like the Cobra FI2000? will my bike be running too lean with debaffled and demickeyed?

2.) Once I debaffle and demickey will my bike run just as it does now? meaning no backfiring, popping, etc.?

3.) Do I need to disconnect the battery BEFORE debaffling so that the computer resets the fuel mixture once the debaffle is complete?

Thanks for all your help!

[Majestik]

Tips - If you are using a battery drill make sure it is fully charged, and have another ready to go. And watch those knuckles.

I have to add:

USE HEAVY DUTY GLOVES!!!

No gloves, get ready for welts and bruises.

[squale]

DJ,
Did you take out the 3rd plate?

[diamond_jim]

DJ,
Did you take out the 3rd plate?

No.

Leave it in there.

[squale]

Well I did the debaffle, demickey, and then I followed your instructions for the 6" fiberglass baffle thing. I had a slight issue however because once I wrapped the wire mesh and the 1" fiberglass packing around the 2" pvc pipe it wouldn't really fit inside the pipes that well. It was too tight a fit and I had to really push on the pvc to try and get it in there and the fiberglass kept sliding off the wire mesh because I guess the fiberglass was getting hung on maybe the sharp edges of the old baffle plate mounts. So anyhow, I took the pvc out from the wire mesh, I just rolled the wire mesh a bit tighter using my hands, then I wrapped the fiberglass around the wire mesh as I held the wire mesh in it's rolled position. Then with the help of a friend hands, I was able to get the wire mesh and fiberglass inside the pipes. I pushed the 6" fiberrod up to within 2" of the 3rd plate and it is sitting rougly 3.5" from the end of the pipes (if measured from the bottom end of the pipe).

The sound is a little deeper than it was without the fiberrod in there, but wow what a difference in total from the stock baffled sound. I did notice however that now when I am riding and I let go of the throttle quickly I will hear a little pop or backfire once in a while. Is this normal? is there something wrong with the fuel/air mixture from doing this mod?

everything else on the bike is completely stock and it's a 2006 m50

thanks