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  1. #1
    M-J Master Poster
    My Bike(s)
    Vulcan 2000
    Location
    North Alabama
    Posts
    3,828

    M50 fiberglass rebaffle for low $$$ (merged)

    Compared to stock, I love the sound of M50 pipes that have been debaffled and demickey'd. However, I've always thought they were a little loud when I accelerated hard and that there was a little bit of a high pitched sound mixed in with the deep growl. Some of that high pitched noise is valve noise and some is resonating from the mufflers themselves. I've wanted all that deep growl but get rid of those higher pitched noises. So after experimenting a lot, I found a low $$$ fix that tames the volume just right and makes for a better, deeper sound.

    So, here's the tutorial:

    1. Get a pack of fiberglass muffler packing used to repack sportbike mufflers. I got this pack for $6.50 at a local bike shop. The piece I got was about 14" x 12" and about 1" thick uncompressed in the bag.


    2. Get a piece of masonry wire mesh (used for things like interior rock work around a fireplace, etc). A sheet is about 2'W x 8'L and has a tar paper backing. The wire mesh is pretty stiff and has a great springy action when rolled. I had some laying around. A sheet costs about $5 at Home Depot/Lowe's.


    3. Cut two pieces of the wire mesh about 8" long and about 6" wide. I've experimented with several different sizes and lengths so I'm giving you the dimensions of what worked best.


    4. Cut two pieces of fiberglass muffler packing about 8" long and about 6" wide.


    5. Now find a spray paint can. (use blue paint because we all know that blue is always faster!) Now roll a piece of the wire mesh around the paint can. Be careful to roll it nicely and not force it and cause it to bend. We want to use the spring action that is inherent in a piece of nicely rolled wire mesh.


    See the accompanying post for the rest of the steps...(just above or below this post, depending on how your posting time/dates are set)
    Last edited by diamond_jim; 04-16-2008 at 10:01 AM.

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  3. #2
    M-J Master Poster
    My Bike(s)
    Vulcan 2000
    Location
    North Alabama
    Posts
    3,828

    M50 fiberglass rebaffle part 2

    This is part 2 of how to rebaffle M50 stock pipes with fiberglass. See the accompanying post #1 (just above or below this post, depending on how your posting time/dates are set) for the first 5 steps.

    Continued...

    6. Find a piece of 2" PVC pipe that's about 8-10" long. It works better if you have some kind of flange or fitting on one end. I'll explain later.

    Wow... I just happen to have a piece laying around...


    7. Now you are going to roll the wire mesh a little tighter. Roll it nicely around the PVC pipe just like you did on the paint can.


    8. Let it overlap about 1/2" and trim off the extra.


    9. Now wrap your wire mesh around the PVC again and then wrap the fiberglass muffler packing around the wire mesh and trim it so that it looks like this:


    The PVC pipe will not remain in the muffler. It is used only to mold the wire mesh shape and as a tool to help place the fiberglass and mesh in the exhaust.

    10. While holding the fiberglass/wire mesh tightly around the PVC, slide it into the debaffled pipes.


    11. Slide it in several inches. This is were the flange or fitting on the PVC pipe helps to slide the fiberglass,wire mesh in the exhaust pipe.

    Once in, pull the PVC pipe out. The spring tension in the wire mesh presses outward against the fiberglass and holds it tightly in place. In the above pic, the fiberglass is slid about an inch so that the camera could capture it. Slide it in further than this though.

    Now do the other pipe the same way.

    Be sure to use the paint can then PVC to roll the wire mesh. If you go straight to the PVC it's more likely to bend the wire as you try to roll it. Don't skip this step.

    This has made my debaffled pipes sound much better. The fiberglass absorbs the valve noises, air velocity noise and resonance of the pipes. Now I have a deeper growl that is just awesome. It costs about $10-15 dollars and works like a charm for me.
    Last edited by diamond_jim; 04-16-2008 at 09:58 AM.

  4. #3
    Ditch Magnet
    My Bike(s)
    07 M50 Limited
    Location
    Dallas
    Posts
    158
    I just love cheap mods. Very clever idea.

    BTW, I assume you pulled that piece of PVC out. Right?!

  5. #4
    M-J Master Poster
    My Bike(s)
    Vulcan 2000
    Location
    North Alabama
    Posts
    3,828
    Ha ha!

    When you slide the new fibrosleeve (I guess that's a good name) in about 5 inches, you can't see it from the back. It just vanishes. Yet it works like a charm. I love the sound now.

  6. #5
    M-J Master Poster
    My Bike(s)
    Vulcan 2000
    Location
    North Alabama
    Posts
    3,828
    I had to make two posts on how to do it because you can only include up to 6 images per post.

  7. #6
    In Training
    My Bike(s)
    '08 suzuki m50
    Location
    Toronto
    Posts
    137
    umm.. wont the pvc melt?

  8. #7
    M-J Master Poster
    My Bike(s)
    Vulcan 2000
    Location
    North Alabama
    Posts
    3,828
    There is no PVC left in the pipe. You just use the PCV pipe to help form the fiberglass/wire mesh sleeve and then use it as a tool to help slide the fibrosleeve into the exhaust.


    If you open the pic below, you'll see the fibrosleeve is pushed in just a little bit so that the camera could still capture some of the details of the sleeve before I pushed it in further. You'll need to push it in further than this. If you look close you can see the wire mesh that is pressing the fiberglass snuggly against the inside of the exhaust.
    M50 fiberglass rebaffle for low $$$ (merged)-12a.jpg
    Last edited by diamond_jim; 04-16-2008 at 10:18 AM.

  9. #8
    In Training
    My Bike(s)
    '08 suzuki m50
    Location
    Toronto
    Posts
    137
    yeah i just found your other thread on this subject which explained some of the missing pieces.
    A bit confusing split between 2 threads like that

  10. #9
    M-J Master Poster
    My Bike(s)
    Vulcan 2000
    Location
    North Alabama
    Posts
    3,828
    I agree. But it won't let you include more than 6 pics in a single post. Maybe one of the admin peeps can tie them into a single post.

  11. #10
    In Training
    My Bike(s)
    '08 suzuki m50
    Location
    Toronto
    Posts
    137
    pretty sure its per post and not per thread.
    I created a thread a while back, stuck 6 images in first post, followed up with second post with another 2 or 3.. all in the same thread.

  12. #11
    Ditch Magnet
    My Bike(s)
    07 M50 Limited
    Location
    Dallas
    Posts
    158
    I've already got slight tinnitus (ringing ears) from too many concerts as a pup, so I'm kind of leery of overly loud exhausts. But this one is so cool, I almost want to do it just for kicks. How does your sound compare to typical aftermarket pipes? Please rate it for me: Louder, Not as Loud, About the Same?

  13. #12
    M-J Master Poster
    My Bike(s)
    Vulcan 2000
    Location
    North Alabama
    Posts
    3,828
    Quote Originally Posted by Jay313 View Post
    I've already got slight tinnitus (ringing ears) from too many concerts as a pup, so I'm kind of leery of overly loud exhausts. But this one is so cool, I almost want to do it just for kicks. How does your sound compare to typical aftermarket pipes? Please rate it for me: Louder, Not as Loud, About the Same?
    Regarding volume, it takes the edge off, if that makes any sense. On a 1 to 10 loudness scale with 10 being debaffled and demickey'd, the fibersleeve is about an 8.5 to 9. For me though the sound is much better because cause I don't have all of the higher pitched noises and I guess that is what makes it more tolerable as well. It's hard to explain. I just love the sound so much more.

    And thank you Clint for cleaning it up for me. Cool.
    Last edited by diamond_jim; 04-16-2008 at 10:08 AM.

  14. #13
    M-J Master Poster
    My Bike(s)
    Vulcan 2000
    Location
    North Alabama
    Posts
    3,828
    I've got some of the wire mesh left to make about 6 pairs of precut pieces. I have no use for them now. I can send them to you free if you live in the States. Just PM me your address. You'll have to get the muffler packing though.

  15. #14
    U.B's LoveChild
    My Bike(s)
    2006 Suzuki M50 Blue with C50 Rear Fender
    Location
    Syracuse, Ny
    Posts
    1,250
    This is compelling, as I have been thinking of debaffeling my M, but have been concerned about the harshness of the fully debaffeled sound. This may be what convinces me to go ahead.

    PM sent for a pair of the precut pcs.

    Question 1) It may be hard to do but can you describe where the new sound lies, using the fully factory baffled M50 and the average Harley, as the extreme limits?

    Question 2) I can not even see where the original baffle was. Did you grind out the rough edge, and if so, how did you do it?
    06 M50 Bluuu Bluuu Bluuu
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  16. #15
    Where Am I ?
    My Bike(s)
    black m50
    Location
    Minnesota
    Posts
    26
    now how well will it stay inside the muffler with just the spring action as your stop? Would you do it if your pipes were only debaffle not demickey.


 
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