Spongy feel after changing the front brake pads?

[matt h]

I just chnaged the front pads and put on DB323s. I only have had a chance to ride up and down the street a couple of times since, but the brakes feel real spongy and don't seem to have the byte I was expecting. Does it take a while to breal in new pads? I have a braided line, so that shouldn't be the issue, but it feels much spongier and doesn't seel to brake nearly as hard as the stock pads. Is there something I should check or is this just a characteristic of new pads that should go away after using the pads a bit?

Thanks,
matt h

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[fake]

sounds like you need to bleed the brakes.

[ghostadv]

Did you pump the brakes after you installed them?

[1badbaker]

I had to bleed mine a little bit. I've EBC's and they bite hard...

[matt h]

Thanks, All! Unfortunately, I just put the bike up for the winter, so I'll need to wait until the spring to report back. Id it normal to need to bleed the brakes after changing the pads? I did have to force the calipers back to get the pads to fit over the rotor. Would this cause air to get in?

matt h

[1badbaker]

I released the drain plug on the caliper just enough to let fluid out before I forced the caliper back, then after reinstalling the pads and calipers I squeezed the handle a few times to just to be safe, then topped off the brake fluid.

[Clint]

Id it normal to need to bleed the brakes after changing the pads? I did have to force the calipers back to get the pads to fit over the rotor. Would this cause air to get in?

No, it's not normal, but that doesn't mean it didn't happen somehow. Did you need to adjust the fluid level after? Did you check it?

[matt h]

I did check the fluid level and it was fine. I'll bleed the line and see if that does the trick. I'm just surprised air would have worked its way in over just changing the pads.

[Easy Rider]

I'm just surprised air would have worked its way in over just changing the pads.

Normally it wouldn't. Do check to be sure both sides are actually pinching now. You may have a piston stuck.
If that checks out OK and bleeding doesn't help, you may have HARD pads that need a little break-in.

[lewie]

you shouldnt need to bleed the brakes, or losen the bleed nippel, just remove the fluid cap, when pushin the pistons back, when pads are in pump the brake lever a few times,( replace cap befor pumpin when pressure is gained top up fluid if needed) this should bring pressure back up , if the brake feels like its spongy but there is pressure dont worry the new pads have to wear in, ie if you look at the disc you will see fine lines in it this is normal but the new pads will have a flat surface, all thay have to do is bed them in takes anything from 50 miles or a lot more depending how much you use your front brake, ps put a clean rag over the brake resvoir & push pistons back slowly if you have to bleed the brake losen the nippel use a long clear plastic pipe, if you suck some fliud thur 1st you will find it will bleed with ease 2 to 3 pumps...

[fear_cartaidh]

So says my Midas and ASE training-

When changing pads follow the following:

1 with a 6pt wrench, 6pt socket or a line wrench (never an open ended wrench as bleeder valves round off easily) open the bleeder and gently pry the piston back in the bore taking care not to gouge the piston surface or mar the rubber seal. This prevents dirty fliud from being pushed back into the system(more important on ABS equiped systems) and makes it easier to push the piston in.

close bleader while you are reaching the end of the pistons stroke. this is in effect bleeding the system.

R&R the pads. grease the slide pins(floating/ semi floating callipers) and any moving surfaces with calliper grease availible at your local parts counter for about 99cents. check for abnormal wear on pins (pads worn unevenly are a big sign)

Isnpect rotors for gouges or heat checking, pitting or abnormal wear.

locktight, reinstall and torque calliper retaining bolts.

top off fliud level

Crack the bleeder and gently press the brake lever, then close the bleeder while you are reaching the end of the brake lever stroke. repeate untill you are satisfied there is no air in the system, or untill the fluid is clean- full brake fluid flush.

*PUMP UP THE BRAKES!*

top off the brake fluid

then give several hard stops to seat the pads- harder to do on two wheels than four yes but still important. you should be able to lock or cause the ABS to activate when you have full pressure.



You should not have had any way to introduce air into the system if you never opened the system. most likely you didn't have the brakes fully pumped up or the pads seated in.
and be carefull of brake fluid as it will strip your paint, if you spill clean it quickly with a damp rag and rinse whith a lot of water as soon as you have closed the system. do not let water come in contact with your brake fluid- Bad JuJu.

you can do this with out ever opening the bleeder but it is better to open it and prevents overflow if the resevor has been topped up when the pads had worn down.

NMc