Welcome guest, is this your first visit? Create Account now to join.

Welcome to the Motorcycle Forum.

Register ButtonIf this is your first visit, be sure to check out the FAQ by clicking the link above. You may have to register before you can post: click the register link above to proceed.

+ Reply to Thread
Results 1 to 11 of 11
  1. #1
    Seat Tester
    My Bike(s)
    06 M50 blue
    Location
    New Hampshire
    Posts
    54

    Spongy feel after changing the front brake pads?

    I just chnaged the front pads and put on DB323s. I only have had a chance to ride up and down the street a couple of times since, but the brakes feel real spongy and don't seem to have the byte I was expecting. Does it take a while to breal in new pads? I have a braided line, so that shouldn't be the issue, but it feels much spongier and doesn't seel to brake nearly as hard as the stock pads. Is there something I should check or is this just a characteristic of new pads that should go away after using the pads a bit?

    Thanks,
    matt h

  2. MotorcycleForums.net is the original Motorcycle Forum! Registered Users do not see these ads. Please Register - It's Free!

  3. #2
    Clunked into first gear
    My Bike(s)
    2009 Yamaha Raider
    Location
    Roswell, New Mexico
    Posts
    245
    sounds like you need to bleed the brakes.
    2009 Yamaha Raven Raider
    *V&H Big Radius 2-1
    *Cobra Fi2000R O2
    *Krank Vent
    *Custom LED Intergrated Taillight
    *Kury Scythe Mirrors
    *Zombies

  4. #3
    Kickstand Operator
    My Bike(s)
    2006 Suzuki M50
    Location
    Sacramento, CA
    Posts
    260
    Did you pump the brakes after you installed them?

  5. #4
    Can Ride And Chew Gum
    My Bike(s)
    05 Black M50
    Location
    Milledgeville, GA
    Posts
    1,989
    I had to bleed mine a little bit. I've EBC's and they bite hard...

    2005 M50 Black: "Black Betty" John's Kit Forward Controls/Saddlemen Explorer/Kury Iso-Grips/Stiletto End Caps/Kury Throttle Boss/De-Paired/De-Badged/pac50t Naked Jug Kit/PCIII USB/Cobra Streetrod Slashdowns/Saddlemen Bags/Cobra Sissybar/Metz ME880's/Slipstreamer Windscreen/C50 mirrors Blacked Out: Headlight Bucket, Mirrors, Front Signals, Radiator Cover, Neck Covers, Speedo Cover, Tank Cowl, Fender Rails, Sissybar, Saddlebag Supports


  6. #5
    Seat Tester
    My Bike(s)
    06 M50 blue
    Location
    New Hampshire
    Posts
    54
    Thanks, All! Unfortunately, I just put the bike up for the winter, so I'll need to wait until the spring to report back. Id it normal to need to bleed the brakes after changing the pads? I did have to force the calipers back to get the pads to fit over the rotor. Would this cause air to get in?

    matt h

  7. #6
    Can Ride And Chew Gum
    My Bike(s)
    05 Black M50
    Location
    Milledgeville, GA
    Posts
    1,989
    I released the drain plug on the caliper just enough to let fluid out before I forced the caliper back, then after reinstalling the pads and calipers I squeezed the handle a few times to just to be safe, then topped off the brake fluid.

    2005 M50 Black: "Black Betty" John's Kit Forward Controls/Saddlemen Explorer/Kury Iso-Grips/Stiletto End Caps/Kury Throttle Boss/De-Paired/De-Badged/pac50t Naked Jug Kit/PCIII USB/Cobra Streetrod Slashdowns/Saddlemen Bags/Cobra Sissybar/Metz ME880's/Slipstreamer Windscreen/C50 mirrors Blacked Out: Headlight Bucket, Mirrors, Front Signals, Radiator Cover, Neck Covers, Speedo Cover, Tank Cowl, Fender Rails, Sissybar, Saddlebag Supports


  8. #7
    Lost but forgotten

    My Bike(s)
    2012 Ninja 1000 ABS, 2002 Bandit 1200 S, 2002 Honda XR50R, 1992 Honda CR125R
    Location
    St. Cloud, MN, USA
    Posts
    20,861
    Quote Originally Posted by matt h View Post
    Id it normal to need to bleed the brakes after changing the pads? I did have to force the calipers back to get the pads to fit over the rotor. Would this cause air to get in?
    No, it's not normal, but that doesn't mean it didn't happen somehow. Did you need to adjust the fluid level after? Did you check it?
    'Busa shock, Racetech forks, Holeshot stage 1 & pipe, Hella headlights, CBRXX clipons, Givi E360 & V46, Zumo 550, Pilot Road 2CTs | Symtec grip heat
    Arai Signet GTR | Joe Rocket Meteor boots, Alter Ego pants, jacket
    | Gerbings liner | Alpinestars SP-1 gloves | Hanes boxer-briefs
    Gems for motorcyclists

  9. #8
    Seat Tester
    My Bike(s)
    06 M50 blue
    Location
    New Hampshire
    Posts
    54
    I did check the fluid level and it was fine. I'll bleed the line and see if that does the trick. I'm just surprised air would have worked its way in over just changing the pads.

  10. #9
    M-J Lifetime Achievement Award
    My Bike(s)
    '10 Kaw Vulcan 900 Custom
    Location
    Ocala, FL
    Posts
    8,797
    Quote Originally Posted by matt h View Post
    I'm just surprised air would have worked its way in over just changing the pads.
    Normally it wouldn't. Do check to be sure both sides are actually pinching now. You may have a piston stuck.
    If that checks out OK and bleeding doesn't help, you may have HARD pads that need a little break-in.
    Don't believe everything that you think.

  11. #10
    Seat Tester
    My Bike(s)
    m800 intruder
    Location
    just out side london uk
    Posts
    65
    you shouldnt need to bleed the brakes, or losen the bleed nippel, just remove the fluid cap, when pushin the pistons back, when pads are in pump the brake lever a few times,( replace cap befor pumpin when pressure is gained top up fluid if needed) this should bring pressure back up , if the brake feels like its spongy but there is pressure dont worry the new pads have to wear in, ie if you look at the disc you will see fine lines in it this is normal but the new pads will have a flat surface, all thay have to do is bed them in takes anything from 50 miles or a lot more depending how much you use your front brake, ps put a clean rag over the brake resvoir & push pistons back slowly if you have to bleed the brake losen the nippel use a long clear plastic pipe, if you suck some fliud thur 1st you will find it will bleed with ease 2 to 3 pumps...

  12. #11
    Leg Humps The Snap On Tool Man
    My Bike(s)
    Suzuki M50 VZ800/Z
    Location
    Aspen Co.
    Posts
    1,477
    So says my Midas and ASE training-

    When changing pads follow the following:

    1 with a 6pt wrench, 6pt socket or a line wrench (never an open ended wrench as bleeder valves round off easily) open the bleeder and gently pry the piston back in the bore taking care not to gouge the piston surface or mar the rubber seal. This prevents dirty fliud from being pushed back into the system(more important on ABS equiped systems) and makes it easier to push the piston in.

    close bleader while you are reaching the end of the pistons stroke. this is in effect bleeding the system.

    R&R the pads. grease the slide pins(floating/ semi floating callipers) and any moving surfaces with calliper grease availible at your local parts counter for about 99cents. check for abnormal wear on pins (pads worn unevenly are a big sign)

    Isnpect rotors for gouges or heat checking, pitting or abnormal wear.

    locktight, reinstall and torque calliper retaining bolts.

    top off fliud level

    Crack the bleeder and gently press the brake lever, then close the bleeder while you are reaching the end of the brake lever stroke. repeate untill you are satisfied there is no air in the system, or untill the fluid is clean- full brake fluid flush.

    *PUMP UP THE BRAKES!*

    top off the brake fluid

    then give several hard stops to seat the pads- harder to do on two wheels than four yes but still important. you should be able to lock or cause the ABS to activate when you have full pressure.



    You should not have had any way to introduce air into the system if you never opened the system. most likely you didn't have the brakes fully pumped up or the pads seated in.
    and be carefull of brake fluid as it will strip your paint, if you spill clean it quickly with a damp rag and rinse whith a lot of water as soon as you have closed the system. do not let water come in contact with your brake fluid- Bad JuJu.

    you can do this with out ever opening the bleeder but it is better to open it and prevents overflow if the resevor has been topped up when the pads had worn down.

    NMc
    Last edited by fear_cartaidh; 11-18-2008 at 01:23 AM.
    Profesional technition, auto, small engine and heavy diesel with five years paid experience and many more as a hobbyist.


 

Ads

 

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts

Similar Threads

  1. how to replace front brake pads on S50
    By jasonbrod in forum The Boulevard
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 10-17-2008, 07:39 PM
  2. changing brake pads?
    By womper in forum Marauder M50 Secret Hideaway
    Replies: 14
    Last Post: 07-12-2008, 11:05 PM
  3. Galfer Brake Braided Steel Brake Lines and Pads- Group Buy
    By Blade in forum Bills Bikes N Service
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 08-02-2007, 10:45 PM
  4. New M50 Rear Brakes feel spongy
    By dj110965 in forum Marauder M50 Secret Hideaway
    Replies: 7
    Last Post: 08-26-2006, 09:08 AM
  5. GSXR600 SRAD spongy front brakes?
    By dil in forum Sportbikes & Sport-tourers
    Replies: 6
    Last Post: 09-25-2004, 12:13 PM

Search tags for this page

after changing brake pads spongy

,
brakes feel spongy after new pads
,
honda pilot spongy brakes
,
motorcycle front brake feels spongy
,
motorcycle spongy front brake
,
rear brakes feel spongy after changing pads
,

spongy brakes after changing pads

,
spongy motorcycle brakes
,
spongy motorcycle brakes after bleeding
,
stuck up brake on motorcycle
Click on a term to search for related topics.