hanglebar risers for M50 available again - Page 4
Welcome guest, is this your first visit? Create Account now to join.

Welcome to the Motorcycle Forum.

Register ButtonIf this is your first visit, be sure to check out the FAQ by clicking the link above. You may have to register before you can post: click the register link above to proceed.

Page 4 of 29 FirstFirst 1234567814 ... LastLast
Results 46 to 60 of 425
Like Tree1Likes

Thread: hanglebar risers for M50 available again

  1. #46
    Puddle Runner
    My Bike(s)
    '08 M50 Limited: Black/Silver
    Location
    Charlotte NC
    Posts
    383
    Ditto - just waiting for spouse to return to town and a clear day (no garage)! There are several small pits in the surface of one of the spacers, but nothing that will affect performance. Can't wait to try them!

  2. Remove Advertisements
    MotorcycleForums.net
    Advertisements
     

  3. #47
    Seat Tester
    My Bike(s)
    2008 Suzuki M50 Silver/Black
    Location
    Murfreesboro, TN
    Posts
    60
    Ken (CooleyM50),

    Got the Riser Spacer blocks installed and it actually went pretty smoothly even though I had no help. Looks great and does blend very well with the stock risers. I'm very pleased with the feel of the bike afterwords, a much more comfortable ride! Glad I bought them!


    OEM Rack/OEM Touring backrest/De-stickered/Garmin Zumo 550/Memphis Shades-Big Shot/Mustang Vintage/Scala Q2 Multiset,Ghost Brackets/Saddlemen Drifter Slant/GIPro+ATRE/SpeedoHealer/Riser Spacers

    YOU ONLY NEED TWO TOOLS IN LIFE: WD-40 AND DUCT TAPE.
    If it doesn't move and should, use the WD-40.
    If it shouldn't move and does, use the duct tape.

  4. #48
    In Training
    My Bike(s)
    '05 M50 Blue & '03 SV650
    Location
    Minneapolis, MN
    Posts
    122
    Those of you installing these by yourself, how the heck are you getting the stock studs out? Try as i might i couldn't hold the handlebars steady (laying on the gas tank) and get enough force on the wrench. I didn't heat the stud up first, is that a pretty important step? I'm thinking of stopping to get a stud remover tomorrow even though I didn't break the studs just to see if that works any better.

    What's most likely to help me get these out, heat with torch, stud remover, or both?

    TIA
    Debaffled + Fibrosleeve, Memphis Shades Alley Cat, rear fender bra, Cobra bungee knobs, integrated tail, LED turn signals

  5. Remove Advertisements
    MotorcycleForums.net
    Advertisements
     

  6. #49
    Seat Tester
    My Bike(s)
    2008 Suzuki M50 Silver/Black
    Location
    Murfreesboro, TN
    Posts
    60
    Quote Originally Posted by Mantissa View Post
    Those of you installing these by yourself, how the heck are you getting the stock studs out? ...
    I just used the method posted:



    I only varied on this slightly my slipping a pipe over the wrench to get more leverage. After the first <crack!> and the stud started to move, the rest was easy by hand. No heat was applied or needed.

    Most useful for me was the link that was included in the emailed instructions, I'll post it here again:

    http://www.motorcycle-journal.com/fo...tml#post456225


    Quote Originally Posted by Mantissa View Post
    Try as i might i couldn't hold the handlebars steady (laying on the gas tank) and get enough force on the wrench.
    First off I put down a pretty good thickness of padding on the tank, then the placement of the wrench so my first attempts at moving the stud was always a downward motion that would drive the handlebars into the tank. Which usually I was holding onto one of the handlebars (whichever was going to be getting the most pressure). I guess for me, having a very thick pad allowed the bars to sit more easily.

    Hope this helps.....


    OEM Rack/OEM Touring backrest/De-stickered/Garmin Zumo 550/Memphis Shades-Big Shot/Mustang Vintage/Scala Q2 Multiset,Ghost Brackets/Saddlemen Drifter Slant/GIPro+ATRE/SpeedoHealer/Riser Spacers

    YOU ONLY NEED TWO TOOLS IN LIFE: WD-40 AND DUCT TAPE.
    If it doesn't move and should, use the WD-40.
    If it shouldn't move and does, use the duct tape.

  7. #50
    Puddle Runner
    My Bike(s)
    '08 M50 Limited: Black/Silver
    Location
    Charlotte NC
    Posts
    383
    Haven't started on mine yet, but I've been told that heat is not necessary. I was advised to go ahead and get a stud remover (from Sears, etc), if I can't remove the stud...in other words give it a decent try but don't overly stress about it.

  8. #51
    In Training
    My Bike(s)
    '05 M50 Blue & '03 SV650
    Location
    Minneapolis, MN
    Posts
    122
    Using a pipe for extra leverage was the key for me. I couldn't find mine yesterday when struggling with the studs, even asked a neighbor for one but no luck. Stopped and picked up a 3 foot section of pipe on the way home today and pulled them out with no problems.

    Install went pretty smooth except the center hole was a little small in one of the new spacers. The bolt didn't pass through cleanly, i had to thread the bolt through it which made it a bit more difficult than necessary but not terrible. The bolt slid right through the other spacer so i just did that one first. It's definitely a subtle change but i like it so far.
    Last edited by Mantissa; 07-17-2009 at 06:35 PM.
    Debaffled + Fibrosleeve, Memphis Shades Alley Cat, rear fender bra, Cobra bungee knobs, integrated tail, LED turn signals

  9. #52
    Fifth gear streak
    My Bike(s)
    Suzuki Boulevard M50 2008 Yellow and Black named the Bumble Bee
    Location
    St. Joseph, IL
    Posts
    1,340

    pits?

    Quote Originally Posted by vtbme View Post
    Ditto - just waiting for spouse to return to town and a clear day (no garage)! There are several small pits in the surface of one of the spacers, but nothing that will affect performance. Can't wait to try them!
    Howdy,
    Was the pits in the flat top or bottom surface or in the side profile polished surface?
    We will gladly replace anything that has cosmetic pit. So far we've not seen anything but mirror smooth surfaces coming off the polishing head.
    Please let me know, we really want you to be happy with the product.

    Thanks,
    Ken

  10. #53
    Fifth gear streak
    My Bike(s)
    Suzuki Boulevard M50 2008 Yellow and Black named the Bumble Bee
    Location
    St. Joseph, IL
    Posts
    1,340
    Hello to everyone here who are installing.

    I will say that I did heat up my stud with a propane torch for 60 seconds maximum, most likely less.
    I heated until I felt just a bit of transfer heat into my hand that was holding the riser.
    Also, I put heat in the center of the stud.
    I then remounted the riser back onto the handlebar and tightened it just enough to keep it on and then went to work with the wrenches.
    Must say though that if I had just left it on the bike with speedo bolted up it would have been less time comsuming but no I took them off completely.
    If you remove the two speedo bolts that run up through that aluminum cross over bar be sure you tighten them. I didn't and lost both on the way to work. Real smart move Ken. Never vibrated a thing off a bike before. Just didn't tighten them at all and I was in a rush to try out my new riser blocks.
    I like all of you am just now enjoying these as they were out of production until we brough them back after Jeff could no longer make them.

    Soon I hope to find out that these will work on the M90's. Anyone out there know if the risers on the M50 are the same as the M90?

    Keep me posted on your installs. Take your time. Pad the heck out of your headlight, fender and tank. Even a small allen wrench can wreck your weekend.

    Best,
    Ken

  11. #54
    Puddle Runner
    My Bike(s)
    '08 M50 Limited: Black/Silver
    Location
    Charlotte NC
    Posts
    383
    Quote Originally Posted by CooleyM50 View Post
    Howdy,
    Was the pits in the flat top or bottom surface or in the side profile polished surface?
    We will gladly replace anything that has cosmetic pit. So far we've not seen anything but mirror smooth surfaces coming off the polishing head.
    Please let me know, we really want you to be happy with the product.

    Thanks,
    Ken
    Outside surface, wide radius end. Looks like they will be facing forward...same direction as headlight. Maybe 10-12 nicks.

    Getting ready to try the install...I'll let you know if it's even noticeable once on the bike...

    Got them on with the help of spouse...good thing, I really don't think I would have been able to turn those stock studs. No torch, no long pipe...they were tight, but he got them. Everything else was pretty straight forward.

    Sailing along and was going to roll bars back...then it happened. One of the caps that covers the handbar allen crews broke. The topcap popped of and left the cylinder part inside the allen screw. Now I can't figure how to get it out...it's in there pretty tight and practically flush with the allen key so I don't think I can grab it with needle nose plyers. Maybe WD-40? Any tips?

    I guess one option is to drill it out, but there is very little margin for error there - before hitting and ruining allen screw....

    Go it! - One shot of WD40 and a smaller allen wrench scooped it right out. Tilted the bars back...which I think just rolls them down, not so much back on the M50 because of there shape.

    Just returned from a little test ride. Nothing fell off...that's good. But I think I'm going to need more pull back. I kind of suspected that going in, but I wanted to give these spacers a shot. Suppose I'll wind up with a completely different bar...which will probably mean new cables...which will mean paying the dealer because I have no idea about all that. But it will be worth it because my lats and lower back are really upset with me. I just don't prefer quite the aggressive posture these bars dictate...but I LOVE the way they look, so I'll be sad to see them go.

    If anyone has suggestions for bars that pull back 2"-3" beyond stock but still retain a bit of the aggressive look, let me know. Based on the stock bars pullback of 10.5" I think I'm going to need total pullback of about 12-13". C50 bars are certainly an option, but they are SO WIDE. I'm guessing the spacers give maybe 3/4" extra pullback, so I could still use those with a new bar.

    Thanks again Ken! The spacers are great, just not quite enough for my body geometry.
    Last edited by vtbme; 07-18-2009 at 06:05 PM.

  12. #55
    Newbie
    My Bike(s)
    M50 2008
    Location
    Wasington State
    Posts
    19
    Risers received in a timely manner, very good quality machine work! I installed on 2008 M50 yesterday with no problems. It did take a bit longer as I took my time so I would not scratch or dent. Went solo on the intall, using closed end 17mm wrench, 17mm ratchet/socket, rubber mallet. The rubber mallet I used to give a rap (not to hard) on the wrench to loosen the stud...worked great. Towels, packing bubbles and my fingers were you used to keep from banging tools against forks, bars, etc...

    I'm very pleased with the results, rode immediately after installing.

    thanks Ken!

    Signed "Short Arms" Randy

  13. #56
    Fifth gear streak
    My Bike(s)
    Suzuki Boulevard M50 2008 Yellow and Black named the Bumble Bee
    Location
    St. Joseph, IL
    Posts
    1,340

    Double up on spacers?

    Quote Originally Posted by vtbme View Post
    Outside surface, wide radius end. Looks like they will be facing forward...same direction as headlight. Maybe 10-12 nicks.

    Getting ready to try the install...I'll let you know if it's even noticeable once on the bike...

    Got them on with the help of spouse...good thing, I really don't think I would have been able to turn those stock studs. No torch, no long pipe...they were tight, but he got them. Everything else was pretty straight forward.

    Sailing along and was going to roll bars back...then it happened. One of the caps that covers the handbar allen crews broke. The topcap popped of and left the cylinder part inside the allen screw. Now I can't figure how to get it out...it's in there pretty tight and practically flush with the allen key so I don't think I can grab it with needle nose plyers. Maybe WD-40? Any tips?

    I guess one option is to drill it out, but there is very little margin for error there - before hitting and ruining allen screw....

    Go it! - One shot of WD40 and a smaller allen wrench scooped it right out. Tilted the bars back...which I think just rolls them down, not so much back on the M50 because of there shape.

    Just returned from a little test ride. Nothing fell off...that's good. But I think I'm going to need more pull back. I kind of suspected that going in, but I wanted to give these spacers a shot. Suppose I'll wind up with a completely different bar...which will probably mean new cables...which will mean paying the dealer because I have no idea about all that. But it will be worth it because my lats and lower back are really upset with me. I just don't prefer quite the aggressive posture these bars dictate...but I LOVE the way they look, so I'll be sad to see them go.

    If anyone has suggestions for bars that pull back 2"-3" beyond stock but still retain a bit of the aggressive look, let me know. Based on the stock bars pullback of 10.5" I think I'm going to need total pullback of about 12-13". C50 bars are certainly an option, but they are SO WIDE. I'm guessing the spacers give maybe 3/4" extra pullback, so I could still use those with a new bar.

    Thanks again Ken! The spacers are great, just not quite enough for my body geometry.
    Would you be willing to set another set of the spacer blocks on top of the ones you have now and determine if your cables, hoses, and wires will accept the extra rise?
    if so, I can begin working on a taller design.
    Send me an email.

    Best,
    Ken

  14. #57
    Fifth gear streak
    My Bike(s)
    Suzuki Boulevard M50 2008 Yellow and Black named the Bumble Bee
    Location
    St. Joseph, IL
    Posts
    1,340

    Good to hear Randy

    Quote Originally Posted by ranline View Post
    Risers received in a timely manner, very good quality machine work! I installed on 2008 M50 yesterday with no problems. It did take a bit longer as I took my time so I would not scratch or dent. Went solo on the intall, using closed end 17mm wrench, 17mm ratchet/socket, rubber mallet. The rubber mallet I used to give a rap (not to hard) on the wrench to loosen the stud...worked great. Towels, packing bubbles and my fingers were you used to keep from banging tools against forks, bars, etc...

    I'm very pleased with the results, rode immediately after installing.

    thanks Ken!

    Signed "Short Arms" Randy
    That's good Randy. I'm happy you are enjoying them.
    Ride safe

  15. #58
    Newbie
    My Bike(s)
    M109R / M50
    Location
    Virginia
    Posts
    18
    Installed on my wife's 2007 M50. I did it solo only took about 30 minutes the fit was very good, finish was great! Thanks Ken!

    Want to give a shout out to BigBear777 for his confidence building and helpful answers to questions prior to install! Thanks Bro!

    BING

  16. #59
    Seat Tester
    My Bike(s)
    2008 Suzuki M50 Silver/Black
    Location
    Murfreesboro, TN
    Posts
    60
    Quote Originally Posted by BING View Post
    Want to give a shout out to BigBear777 for his confidence building and helpful answers to questions prior to install! Thanks Bro!
    BING
    Just glad you got them on without any issues!

    BTW, Has she commented on if she likes the change or not?


    OEM Rack/OEM Touring backrest/De-stickered/Garmin Zumo 550/Memphis Shades-Big Shot/Mustang Vintage/Scala Q2 Multiset,Ghost Brackets/Saddlemen Drifter Slant/GIPro+ATRE/SpeedoHealer/Riser Spacers

    YOU ONLY NEED TWO TOOLS IN LIFE: WD-40 AND DUCT TAPE.
    If it doesn't move and should, use the WD-40.
    If it shouldn't move and does, use the duct tape.

  17. #60
    U.B's LoveChild
    My Bike(s)
    2007 M50 Black; 1986 Kawasaki Vulcan 750; 2003 Yamaha XT225
    Location
    Seattle, WA USA
    Posts
    1,060
    I got mine on tonight and I really like the new riding position.

    I used a little heat and I had no problem at all getting the studs out using the lock-nut method. No breaker bar. No aftermarker stud puller. No headache.

    Unfortunately I overtightened the right riser bolt and stripped the riser (heavy hand due to a dense mind). That's a $200 mistake according to the OEM order list from the local dealer.

    Big kudos to Ken and Jeff. Thanks guys.

    Mantissa: In case you haven't got the studs out yet, I had the bar resting on the tank with a bunch of padding. I did apply some heat (about 20 sec. per side of the stud). I applied the nuts & lock-washer then stood on the left side of the bike with the left grip clenched between my thighs. With a couple taps of a rubber mallet on the box-end wrench the stud came right out. My voice is still just as deep as it always was.
    Last edited by Quantumcat; 07-22-2009 at 02:33 AM.
    Experience is the comb that Life gives you after you've lost your hair.

    2007 M50 Black - Hard Krome 3" Res-Tech Exhaust ~ Ken Cooley Chin Spoiler ~ Kury Hypercharger ~ PCIII USB ~ S.S. Brake Line ~ 1" Riser Spacers ~ ISO Grips w/Throttle Bosses & Transformer Endcaps ~ ISO Pegs, Shifter & Brake Cover ~ Willie & Max Raptor Saddlebags ~ Debadged ~ Iridium Plugs ~ Factory Wire Rack, Tank Bib & Case Guards ~ Black Vinyl Wrapped Forks ~ Smoked Lenses ~ Flex 3 led plate frame


 
Page 4 of 29 FirstFirst 1234567814 ... LastLast

Sponsored Links

 

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

Similar Threads

  1. Risers
    By mdandera in forum Volusia/C50 Getaway
    Replies: 7
    Last Post: 08-10-2008, 11:06 AM
  2. WTB Risers for 05 M50
    By mflueras in forum Gear, Parts and Accessories Buy / Sell / Trade
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 01-03-2008, 05:31 AM
  3. Risers
    By knucklehead in forum The Boulevard
    Replies: 6
    Last Post: 09-26-2007, 11:31 PM
  4. Risers
    By Wayne McKinney in forum Cruisers
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 01-02-2006, 07:41 PM
  5. risers
    By Catherine in forum Cruisers
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 09-19-2005, 01:34 PM

Search tags for this page

2 inch risers harley
,
images of bikes with 4 inch risers
,
m50 stacked risers
,
meat thermometer
,
suzuki m50 handlebar riser stud removal
,

suzuki m50 handlebar risers

,
suzuki m50 handlebar risers, removing nuts from stud
,

suzuki m50 risers

,
suzuki m800 chin
,
vagabonds mc brisbane
Click on a term to search for related topics.