ATTENTION ALL M50 OWNERS! My issue resolved! FIX YOURS NOW B4 IT'S TO LATE! - Page 28
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  1. #406
    Newbie
    Posts
    13
    I don't think the corrosion block has moly in it, but according to their website it is usable in our application field - they even show a picture of shaft parts on their website ..... But then on the other hand better play safe and use something that has been proven effective by M50/C50 owners ....

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  3. #407
    Newbie
    Posts
    13
    I'm already planning on doing this maintenance mod and I'm currently looking for parts to order.

    Based on this parts diagram:











    I would order:
    number 38, 39, 40

    And the points to grease are number: 35 and both ends of the shaft (number 37). What about greasing part number 2?


    Thanks!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails ATTENTION ALL M50 OWNERS! My issue resolved! FIX YOURS NOW B4 IT'S TO LATE!-suzuki_c800_driveshaft_parts.jpg  

  4. #408
    Super Moderator

    My Bike(s)
    Vulcan 900, Can-AM Spyder
    Location
    Ocala, FL
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    11,081
    This plan might be overkill.

    If you catch it soon enough you will NOT need to replace any parts.
    An inspection should be done first.
    Don't believe everything that you think.

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  6. #409
    Newbie
    Posts
    13
    I'm not really planning on replacing parts, I bought a brand new C50. It's just preventative maintenance, therefore I need a new gasket as I think the old one could be ripped trying to get it out. This small spring is also a good item to have, in case that small part gets lost. Same goes for the snapring, both snapring and spring are relatively cheap - therefore I'm ordering them too to save on shipping. Other than that it's just greasing. But is it enough to grease part number 35 and both ends of 37, or do I need to grease part number 2 also?

  7. #410
    Super Moderator

    My Bike(s)
    Vulcan 900, Can-AM Spyder
    Location
    Ocala, FL
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    11,081
    Quote Originally Posted by alex_at View Post
    I bought a brand new C50.
    OK so I think you should go back and read the threads about this a little closer.

    IIRC, this was a factory error and it only affected two or three model years.....or less.

    You are definitely being a bit paranoid about this with a brand new machine.
    Sometimes "fixing" things that don't need to be fixed is a BAD idea.
    Don't believe everything that you think.

  8. #411
    Newbie
    Posts
    13
    Quote Originally Posted by Easy Rider View Post
    OK so I think you should go back and read the threads about this a little closer. IIRC, this was a factory error and it only affected two or three model years.....or less. You are definitely being a bit paranoid about this with a brand new machine. Sometimes "fixing" things that don't need to be fixed is a BAD idea.
    That's definetly interesting to read. I've read both versions now, on the one hand I've heard that issue affects all of the C50/M50 across every year, on the other hand I've read that it only affects the earlyer M50's and somwhere in 2008 oder 2009 the M50 got overhauled and Suzuki redesigned hundred's of parts - therefore newer ones aren't affected. I can't recall where I've read the second statement of the redesigned parts, possibly right here. Now, if I take a look online in the parts catalogue, my 2015 C50 is essentially a K6 Model, built since 2007 - so possibly still affected? Now let's assume my new C50 is not affected, should I still apply liquid gasket to the metal gasket to seal out moisture?

  9. #412
    Newbie
    Posts
    13
    I recently did some research on a 2002-2006 Rang Rover III (L322). Interestingly, I found out that this particular Range Rover seems from 2002 to 2005 has serious issues with the shaft drive, particularly on the front end side coming out of the differential.

    These 2 links might be interesting:
    Front Differential Failure (Range Rover Mk III)
    Front Differential Recall (Range Rover Mk III)

    The first link shows the old setup that's known to cause issues. Now, to me it looks very similar to the setup our C50 uses on the rear end of the shaft drive. The thing in common is the kind of fixed, non flexible coupling at the rear end of our driveshafts. (Front end of the Range Rover III)

    This leads me to think that the missing grease isn't the main cause of the driveshaft problem, it might contribute to an slightly earlier failure, but possibly it's not the main issue. Unfortunately that would also mean that greasing isn't the ultimate solution....

    I'm not a mechanic or engineer, but the C50 driveshaft just came to my mind whilst researching on the Range Rover and the common driveshaft issue found on the Range Rover reminded me on the failures of some of the C50 driveshaft failures.

    Another driveshaft motorcycle comes to my mind, the BMW GS series - everyone of those I have seen appear to have an flexible rear end coupling - unlike our C50's.

    The Range Rover article also mentions misalignment - I think about suspension settings on our C50. The rear shock comes set on factory setting 4, the range is 1 to 7. I want my suspension softer than on setting 4 since I get some heavy shocks in my back when driving over potholes. Now my thinking was that possibly setting 1 (softest) in comparison to setting 7 (hardest) would allow much more up and down movement of the driveshaft and therefore more or less wear - If I think correctly.

    edit: I think I'm on the wrong train with the suspension setting, since the rear end of the shaft is attached to the wheel - so more up and down movement would only affect the engine side connection...


    What do you think?
    Last edited by alex_at; 09-04-2016 at 06:08 PM.

  10. #413
    Super Moderator

    My Bike(s)
    Vulcan 900, Can-AM Spyder
    Location
    Ocala, FL
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    11,081
    The suspension setting only affects the centering of the shock with your weight on the bike.
    It does little or nothing to change the actual spring rate or overall movement.
    Don't believe everything that you think.

  11. #414
    Newbie
    My Bike(s)
    2005 m50
    Posts
    8
    So I read the whole thread.
    In my opinion, your wheel isn't going to lock up. The spline at the end of the shaft has nothing to do with the ring and pinion. Metal from the spline will never reach the ring and pinion. They are in two different locations.
    I took mine apart and found rust in the tube. I grabbed the shaft, torqued it both ways while moving it in and out. I found no play and no step from wear. I didn't have a seal so I didn't remove it and grease it. I felt the spline had enough grease.
    I decided to put a drain plug in. I drilled and tapped for a 10-32 screw. I put the screw at the lowest point possible. I used a stainless bolt and put thread sealer on it. Before tapping I had to make a counter bore with a Dremel.
    Now when I need to, I can drain it.


 
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