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ATTENTION ALL M50 OWNERS! My issue resolved! FIX YOURS NOW B4 IT'S TO LATE!

176K views 427 replies 102 participants last post by  Aussie Steve 
#1 · (Edited)
Then please call this number 714-572-1490 (SUZUKI HQ) ,and complain like I did to make the report,but be sure your stuff is rusted before you complain.

I HIGHLY suggest everyone lubes the rear drive of their 50.Do it now in 20 minutes ,or do it later ,and wait for weeks for parts.
Remove the final drive,(via my video)set your drive on the ground...shaft facing up..then take your hand and smack the end of the shaft compressing the spring somewhat fast..If rust comes out your in trouble,cut that boot off and lube that %%%% up or you will be like me ,and Spikes.
My issues is not an internal transmission issue,when in fact it was the rear drive.
I took it off,but I didnt take it apart to look inside I didn't want to cut that rubber seal off (This lesson cost me $83.14:eek:oops:) The propeller shaft,and gear were mush inside...seems odd no metal came out on the magnet when I drained the oil.But anyways....1 more week for parts,and $175.00 (overnight shipping),and I'll be on my M again.
I told my wife I can make it to the strip next Saturday!...If looks could kill lol.
SPIKES!!! DOUBLE CHECK YOUR FINAL DRIVES BRO!!!
I'm a happy camper today.:mrgreen:
Here is a parts list of what I need.
CS

MFG ITEM QTY PRICE TOTAL
SUZUKI WASHER, DRIVE SHAFT for 2005 SUZUKI VZ800
09160-16029 1 $2.42 $2.42
SUZUKI SEAL, FINAL DRIVEN GEAR OIL L for 2005 SUZUKI VZ800
09283-38009 1 $6.89 $6.89
SUZUKI NUT for 2005 SUZUKI VZ800
09159-10026 1 $2.87 $2.87
SUZUKI O RING (D:2.4,ID:17.8) for 2005 SUZUKI VZ800
09280-18004 1 $2.39 $2.39
SUZUKI .COUPLING, PROPELLER SHAFT for 2005 SUZUKI VZ800
27172-38A00 1 $25.89 $25.89
SUZUKI SHAFT, PROPELLER for 2005 SUZUKI VZ800
27151-41F00 1 $91.38 $91.38
SUZUKI SPRING for 2005 SUZUKI VZ800
09440-18019 1 $1.25 $1.25
SUZUKI OIL SEAL (28.4X48X15) for 2005 SUZUKI VZ800
09283-30051 1 $4.90 $4.90
SUZUKI .CIRCLIP for 2005 SUZUKI VZ800
09381-40003 1 $2.15 $2.15
Tax: $0.00
Shipping: $15.00
Total: $155.14
 
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#100 ·
ok I give up.
The videos play on my end no problem,but after they get uploaded the sound is out of sync bigtime.
I have tried a few different programs,with no luck.
i have 60 megs of video of the reassembly,but I cant upload it :(
CS
 
#101 ·
Originally Posted by burnchassis

I used water proof marine wheel bearing grease.Water does nothing to this stuff,you can't wash it off your hands.
:plus1: I gotta agree with marine grease for places where water might be an issue. Not that I'm some lubricant expert, but I've never had a problem yet (knock on wood :fight1: ).

I bought a tub of Bel-Ray marine grease years ago and it sits alongside my moly and lithium based greases. Unless you're replacing a lot of wheel bearings or headsets, it should last a decade or two.
 
#103 · (Edited)
great videos! You really make it seem not so intimidating.

I just bought my 07 m50 and have been riding the hell out of it the past week. I'm coming up on my 600 mi tune up so this seems like a great time to check on the final drive gear shaft as well.

Assuming everything is still in working order (just dry) what parts do I need to order from the dealer? I might as well be thorough and grease up everything I can while the bike's apart.

I see the oil seal on page 4-11 (part no. 23). Is there anything else?

Any special tools I should order as well? I see the snap ring pliers on page 4-13, the 22mm long socket, and the final drive gear coupling holder on page 4-14. Are these necessary or can I just go swing by harbor freight? :)

Thanks again for your documentation on this!
 
#104 ·
I got by with only the 22mm long socket.
My gear holder was the wheel on the ground,and the 2x4.
I used a small flat head screwdriver to beat the snap ring in.
Those tools make it easier,but I didn't need them.
Oil seal is all you will need to replace,if just greasing that spline.
Thanks
CS
 
#106 ·
That looks soooooo easy. I am only worried about taking the rear tire off. Once I do that, its only a few bolts and an oil seal to get off. I think I can do it. I still wish I were close enough to you so I could come over and beg for your help :) I'll give it a shot anyway.

This may be in the thread anyway, but is there a parts list for only the seal, o-rings, tension clip, grease to use....and I guess that's it. I want to get the exact stuff. Thanks for all the hard work and vids....I would never even attempt it without the help you have provided.


Edit: Never mind...I see the grease you used just a few posts up. I just need the parts then.
 
#108 ·
If your not broken,all you will need is that oil seal..and maybe some gasket maker to help seal the final drive to the bike.
For those that may still be scared to try,I offer my services to you free.All you need to do is get it to me.:)
CS
 
#107 ·
Not sure,but I think it was answered.I think It will apply to any bike using that same shaft drive....and very possibly other shaft drive models,that are sealed like that.Bottom line is ,Check it out it will only take a few minutes.If your shaft,and primary are rusted,you will be able to tell before you cut off that seal.Set the drive on the ground,so the shaft is facing up,then take your hand and slap the top of the shaft compressing the spring,and forcing it into the drive.If you have a problem you will see rust dust fly out....I had a ton of dust in mine. Dust can come out...so that's how the water is getting in.
I am no expert,so I do not know how many or what kind bikes are involved.In fact, I had no clue what I was doing in this repair,but I'wasn't scared to try.
I'll gladly try to answer any questions I know the answer to.
CS
 
#113 ·
I am VERY anal about wearing shoes. My wife and son come into my workshop without shoes and I send them packing. When I ask my wife to help me with somthing I always tell her "and put on some shoes". Seeing you wrenching on your bike without shoes was like fingernails on the chalkboard. Well to each his own I guess.

Roger L
 
#114 ·
Great videos, Burn! THANKS A LOT, MAN!!!
It really seems easy what you did, but I know it will take me a whole day to do it, but I will certainly do it this winter. I have ordered the oil gasket and I'll take it today from the shop.
Thank you very much for sharing all this with us! You rock!
 
#116 ·
Nice job on everything Burn !! Went and checked on mine today ,turns out mine did have the same problem as you, they tore the motor and tranny down to find pretty much nothing.
Anyways the parts are on back order from Suzuki, hopefully they'll be in this week, I'm goin' out of my freakin' mind !!
 
#117 · (Edited)
:shock::shock::shock:OMG SPIKES!!!!!:shock::shock::shock:
Same thing even after you told them to double check it??????
Them BASTARDS!
You need to have that dealership call suzuki and announce this problem .
There will be a recall on it if there is enough documentation on it.
Please force them to make a report of it ...explain I did the same thing,and Suzuki needs to take care of it before someone dies!
Stay on top of them to be sure they call please!
Then take it home,and fix it yourself! lol
They surely won't charge you the 15 + hours labor for a engine removal/split...will they??
CS
 
#118 ·
It's gonna cost about $1200 . I jumped the gun , thought it was the tranny. Gave the bike to the shop the day after it happened.
On the up side of this, I asked how everything in the engine was, A+ !! Tensioners, clutch(original-60,000 kms) the only thing was some carbon build up on top of the pistons. Maybe running a little rich or babying it (no bloody way) !!
I guess that's the cost of education !! From here on in it' s me, the manual and a case of beer !! ( and Burn if a house comes up for rent in your neighborhood I'm movin' :lol4:
 
#119 · (Edited)
#120 ·
Ya they're going to call them and I'll be calling and faxing a copy of the bill also when the parts are in and the work is done !!
Let's hope by Friday she's back on the road and p!$$in' of the neighbors at 5am when I leave for work ! :twisted::twisted:
 
#121 · (Edited)
So, any reason I should NOT take it to the Yami/Kawi dealership I have a relationship with? They work on most major models. If mine's in trouble too, would Suzuki not accept the report as "official" because it was not from one of their dealers? I'm wondering how it might affect the case trying to build be for a recall and/or reimbursement for expense of fixing this potential problem.

About how many dealer hours are we talking here? I'm trying to get an idea of what $$ to expect.

Probably will have them check this out as part of 4k mile service.

Of course...I"m crossing my fingers that my '08 might be okay and escape the case of the missing/inadequate grease.

Speaking of grease...sounds like I should be specific with the dealer and demand they use a marine grease...or would they have that on hand/know it do that anyway?
 
#123 ·
Team Charlotte did mine. I have the DJ drive now. I will be sure to have it checked when I replace the rear tire some time early next year. BTW I have over 20k miles on the DJ drive w/ no problems.
 
#122 ·
1 hour easy for an experienced tech with proper tools. I can do it in under an hour,so they should too.
My shop told me under 200 to have them do it.I paid 140 for parts,and 35 to overnight them.
The Suzuki USA hot line told me it has to be an authorized Suzuki dealer.:madd:
CS
 
#124 ·
Not to be a Debbie Downer here, but how many people have actually experienced this problem. There is a lot of smoke, but how many fires?

In this thread, I count 2 or three total??

Just trying to balance the time and cost for taking this on vs. the chance that it is more isolated than we are all thinking...
 
#125 ·
It's easy and simple to check if your bike has the issue or not. If you want to risk your bike's parts rusting and grinding themselves to peices, that's your choice. The reason why we havn't seen many is because Burn is one of few high mileage M's on the forum.
 
#128 ·
It's all good my friend, didn't mean to sound rude. I understand what your saying. It would be nice to know if this is year related, or only bikes from a certain factory are affected. But since mine is a 2006, and so many M50's are still low mileage like my own, by the time we see more of this (if more happen) my bike will be high mileage as well, and too late to prevent the issue. I have 6 months of winter down time since I live in canada. That's plenty of time to rip into the bike and see if I have the issue. It may not be rusty this early, but I may see some water in there, or a lack of grease.
 
#130 ·
The oil seal, for a C50t, #09283-30051 OIL SEAL (28.4X48X15) $5.30, which seems to be a likely/possible culprit, as well as the lack of grease in the assembly, and not marine grease at that, covers the years of 2004-2009. So at least we know Suzuki did not change the oil seal for those years. So in my mind, the same seal that failed in the 2004/05 models, will probably fail in the rest, same part #!!!. Now, if Suzuki had changed their production assembly requirements at the factory, to the assembly at question from 2006 and on, and called for either marine grease, or at least any grease to protect from water, we can all sleep comfortably. Suzuki should be able to investigate at the factory if a assembly advisory had indeed come out on this.
I for one doubt it, as this is obviously a problem that they did not anticipate or they would have revised the seal also. RECALL-RECALL-RECALL. This SHOULD NOT COME OUT
OF OUR POCKETS!!!!!!! Even if the seal kind-a-works, unless there is adequate grease, (marine or equivalent) in the assembly, it WILL eventually rust when water gets trapped.
 
#137 ·
The oil seal, for a C50t, #09283-30051 OIL SEAL (28.4X48X15)
This part number ( and it matches Burns for his M50) was definitely not on the invoice.

But this was 09168-14004 Gasket...for the oil drain plug from what I can tell: 09168-14004 WASHER, SUMP PLUG, FITS MOST SUZUKI.

Guess I should go back and grill them because I'm sure they wouldn't "forget" to charge me for an oil seal.

The guys also kept referring to it and listed it as the "splines on the differential"...is that the same thing?

So If I've been following this thread correctly, according to the service manual on pg 143, part 23 which is labeled (and we've been referring to) as Oil Seal - should have been removed (ie the only way is to cut it so it can NOT be used and new one is needed) to even verify if the (25) Propeller Shaft and (21) Final Drive Coupling were adequately lubed.

The only other part number on the invoice is for the oil filter 16510-03g00-x07...which checks out according to another post on this forum, but oddly enough is listed as an oil filter wrench on Oneida Suzuki. :huh:

Then of course there is the mysterious "Supplies" (usually on any vehicle work) at around $11 and oil for $14.

So, based on this and before I go plead my case demanding at least my $62.40 (what the charged me to check/grease it) back for them not doing what I asked them to do:

Is there anything else they could have possibly "checked and lubed" instead? ...remembering that the picture of the shaft and coupler was stapled to the service order

Just trying to learn a thing or two here, fellas...thanks for your patience.
 
#131 ·
Only at 3k miles on my '08 Limited, but I'm taking it in today for the 4k service and to have them check this issue. Bought on Craigslist, so I need to get the once-over anyway. Will post outcome...then we'll have at least one report from a newer, low mileage model.
 
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