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ATTENTION ALL M50 OWNERS! My issue resolved! FIX YOURS NOW B4 IT'S TO LATE!

176K views 427 replies 102 participants last post by  Aussie Steve 
#1 · (Edited)
Then please call this number 714-572-1490 (SUZUKI HQ) ,and complain like I did to make the report,but be sure your stuff is rusted before you complain.

I HIGHLY suggest everyone lubes the rear drive of their 50.Do it now in 20 minutes ,or do it later ,and wait for weeks for parts.
Remove the final drive,(via my video)set your drive on the ground...shaft facing up..then take your hand and smack the end of the shaft compressing the spring somewhat fast..If rust comes out your in trouble,cut that boot off and lube that %%%% up or you will be like me ,and Spikes.
My issues is not an internal transmission issue,when in fact it was the rear drive.
I took it off,but I didnt take it apart to look inside I didn't want to cut that rubber seal off (This lesson cost me $83.14:eek:oops:) The propeller shaft,and gear were mush inside...seems odd no metal came out on the magnet when I drained the oil.But anyways....1 more week for parts,and $175.00 (overnight shipping),and I'll be on my M again.
I told my wife I can make it to the strip next Saturday!...If looks could kill lol.
SPIKES!!! DOUBLE CHECK YOUR FINAL DRIVES BRO!!!
I'm a happy camper today.:mrgreen:
Here is a parts list of what I need.
CS

MFG ITEM QTY PRICE TOTAL
SUZUKI WASHER, DRIVE SHAFT for 2005 SUZUKI VZ800
09160-16029 1 $2.42 $2.42
SUZUKI SEAL, FINAL DRIVEN GEAR OIL L for 2005 SUZUKI VZ800
09283-38009 1 $6.89 $6.89
SUZUKI NUT for 2005 SUZUKI VZ800
09159-10026 1 $2.87 $2.87
SUZUKI O RING (D:2.4,ID:17.8) for 2005 SUZUKI VZ800
09280-18004 1 $2.39 $2.39
SUZUKI .COUPLING, PROPELLER SHAFT for 2005 SUZUKI VZ800
27172-38A00 1 $25.89 $25.89
SUZUKI SHAFT, PROPELLER for 2005 SUZUKI VZ800
27151-41F00 1 $91.38 $91.38
SUZUKI SPRING for 2005 SUZUKI VZ800
09440-18019 1 $1.25 $1.25
SUZUKI OIL SEAL (28.4X48X15) for 2005 SUZUKI VZ800
09283-30051 1 $4.90 $4.90
SUZUKI .CIRCLIP for 2005 SUZUKI VZ800
09381-40003 1 $2.15 $2.15
Tax: $0.00
Shipping: $15.00
Total: $155.14
 
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#2 ·
How can you ever ride it again and hold your head high after all the bashing you just did? :mrgreen:

Good info.
 
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#4 · (Edited)
Bashing? How by sayin every M will break no matter how you ride it ?
This is VERY true IF YOU DONT FIX IT NOW!
Someone is always first to learn...some pass on the information,and some don't.
FWIW The shop MGR told me today it doesn't matter how it's ridden.....upkeep is another story.
Like I said, this part can't be seen or accessed without taking it apart,nor is there any PM (grease it)on it via suzuki.
Hes been a shop mgr for 32 years,and he told me hes worked on bikes with major issues ran by old men that never go over 55 mph,and then he has kids that obviously beat on stuff,and it last forever.
"It doesn't matter how you ride it..If it is going to break it's going to break.If those parts would have remained greased throughout their life,they may or may not have broken" quoted from the shop MGR at Suzuki.
CS
 
#5 ·
Burn, can you please post the page number/piece number of the piece that failed from the M50 Service Manual, please? I think the page number is 4-11, but I'm not able to identify the rusted piece you took pictures of... I think it is number 25 (propeller shaft), is it?
Thanks!
 
#6 · (Edited)
Yes draf,that is the main drive shaft,and the gear it meets inside the final drive housing.
4-11 is the page ,and #25 is the shaft.#21 is the other piece,and then all of the seals,and washers etc.
CS
 
#8 ·
You need a jack, a flat piece of wood (2x4), 22mm socket, 2 14 mm sockets or wrenches,needle nose pliers,rubber hammer, maybe a 3/8 drive 8 inch extension to beat out your axle.
Then of course you need grease,and beers,and 20 minutes of your time.
CS
 
#11 · (Edited)
Knowing what I know now? I would definitely do it.You may still have years ,and 10,000-30,000 miles left,or more,and then again,you may not.
If your going to do this order the boot you need to cut off so your not down any time waiting for parts.
Order seal #23 on the M50 manual on page 4-11.
If I can save even 1 of my fellow riders from this disaster I'll be happy.
I got off easy with a "freewheel" when it broke,but it could also have locked up the rear tire at 75 mph,and the results may have been much worse.
Do it for peace of mind,if nothing else.
Apertureguy? to just hope your 06 is different then my 05 is crazy thinking.
It's simple to do ,and it's possible it could save your life!
CS
 
#15 ·
In fact anyone riding around or through Cincinnati is more then welcome to come to my place,and I'll do this for you free,for the chance to grind some pegs with a fellow rider.:bluethum: You bring the replacement boot!
CS
 
#16 ·
I just replaced my rear tire. That would have been a GREAT time to do this fix when the bike was apart. On my bike I needed to loosen the exhaust pipes to drive the rear axel out of the wheel bearings. There was some corrosion on the axel where it went thru the rear brake housing.

Roger L
 
#17 ·
Wow....I guess I need to do this as well. I will be looking for your how to on the boot install and all that stuff. I never thought about it possibly locking up at 75...that makes me nervous. Time to get the tools out!!!!!
 
#22 ·
Great news that you discovered the problem burnchassis and even better that you're willing to share it for the benefit of all.

I haven't looked at the process of disassembly yet, so the next paragraph may show a bunch of ignorance.

I await the idiot-proof "how to", but I'd like to ask if there are any other parts that would need to be ordered along with the boot. What I mean is...in order to get in there and service it a lot of things have to be removed before you get that boot. Are there parts that need to be replaced due to removing stuff in order to get in there? For example, if you have to remove the pipes, you'd probably want new gaskets. Are there gaskets, o-rings, crush washers/seals that need to be replaced when removing all the ancillary components?

Sorry for repeating my self, but I didn't want to be misunderstood.

Thanks 1,000,000 for passing along this information.
 
#23 ·
I have not gotten to the internals yet,I just ordered parts today so within a week I should have them,and will gladly post a HOW TO.
I was told I needed no special tools to do this.
If your just going to grease it ,no,you should only need the boot...again I'll know more when I tear mine down fully.
AND
You shouldn't have to remove your pipes to remove the rear wheel.
If your axle bolt is froze in there..just keep twisting it out,it will come eventually.
CS
 
#25 ·
To add a bit to this discussion, I removed the rear drive to lube the forward splines on the drive shaft just before a trip to Alaska two years ago. NO trace of any grease, but thankfully NO rust or wear either. Slathering the splines with Moly 60 paste I was ready to reassemble. But what about the front U-joint?

Took the swing arm off to access this part and found that the internal splines were dry on both front and rear sides. Lots of work, but after using lots more Moly 60 paste all was reassembled and the trip went just fine.

Later I learned that the rear end of the drive shaft, where it enters the rear drive, has a need for grease too. Suzuki recommends a new seal if you remove the drive shaft -- you'll need a circlip pliers too. After checking this I found it well lubricated with lots of grease and NO rust showing at all. Still, I cleaned it out and using Moly 60 paste again I repacked it and put in a new seal. All is well and I feel confident I'll have no problems for a long while.

Someone at Suzuki should have their fingernails torn out with pliers for this oversight at the factory level. Better yet would be castration with a dull hacksaw blade!

Ray Nielsen, in Minneapolis and sitting out rain and tornados today!
 
#27 ·
Burn you are my mech. The great info keeps comming and comming. Sorry your bike had to break to find this out but I thank you very much for sharing the info, so the rest of us can take note. I would have ended up spending big bucks and now I know how to prevent it. Thanks again man.
 
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