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ATTENTION ALL M50 OWNERS! My issue resolved! FIX YOURS NOW B4 IT'S TO LATE!

176K views 427 replies 102 participants last post by  Aussie Steve 
#1 · (Edited)
Then please call this number 714-572-1490 (SUZUKI HQ) ,and complain like I did to make the report,but be sure your stuff is rusted before you complain.

I HIGHLY suggest everyone lubes the rear drive of their 50.Do it now in 20 minutes ,or do it later ,and wait for weeks for parts.
Remove the final drive,(via my video)set your drive on the ground...shaft facing up..then take your hand and smack the end of the shaft compressing the spring somewhat fast..If rust comes out your in trouble,cut that boot off and lube that %%%% up or you will be like me ,and Spikes.
My issues is not an internal transmission issue,when in fact it was the rear drive.
I took it off,but I didnt take it apart to look inside I didn't want to cut that rubber seal off (This lesson cost me $83.14:eek:oops:) The propeller shaft,and gear were mush inside...seems odd no metal came out on the magnet when I drained the oil.But anyways....1 more week for parts,and $175.00 (overnight shipping),and I'll be on my M again.
I told my wife I can make it to the strip next Saturday!...If looks could kill lol.
SPIKES!!! DOUBLE CHECK YOUR FINAL DRIVES BRO!!!
I'm a happy camper today.:mrgreen:
Here is a parts list of what I need.
CS

MFG ITEM QTY PRICE TOTAL
SUZUKI WASHER, DRIVE SHAFT for 2005 SUZUKI VZ800
09160-16029 1 $2.42 $2.42
SUZUKI SEAL, FINAL DRIVEN GEAR OIL L for 2005 SUZUKI VZ800
09283-38009 1 $6.89 $6.89
SUZUKI NUT for 2005 SUZUKI VZ800
09159-10026 1 $2.87 $2.87
SUZUKI O RING (D:2.4,ID:17.8) for 2005 SUZUKI VZ800
09280-18004 1 $2.39 $2.39
SUZUKI .COUPLING, PROPELLER SHAFT for 2005 SUZUKI VZ800
27172-38A00 1 $25.89 $25.89
SUZUKI SHAFT, PROPELLER for 2005 SUZUKI VZ800
27151-41F00 1 $91.38 $91.38
SUZUKI SPRING for 2005 SUZUKI VZ800
09440-18019 1 $1.25 $1.25
SUZUKI OIL SEAL (28.4X48X15) for 2005 SUZUKI VZ800
09283-30051 1 $4.90 $4.90
SUZUKI .CIRCLIP for 2005 SUZUKI VZ800
09381-40003 1 $2.15 $2.15
Tax: $0.00
Shipping: $15.00
Total: $155.14
 
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#29 ·
Burn:
One other thing I do not see the boot that you need to remove to get to this. I looked thru the parts list and thru the manual and I do not see the boot. Could you take a photo of this boot. The boot is not on your parts list either.
Also from looking at the drawing in the manual this part will not fail by locking up. It will fail by stripping off like yours did and freewheeling. The splines are basically "locked up" by design.

Roger L
 
#31 ·
The boot is at the engine end of the propeller shaft and the damaged end looks like it is at the final drive (rear wheel) end of the shaft.

To have rust in the place that failed means water intrusion. Two logical places for water entry are at the boot and the other end at the flange joint between the final drive and the propeller shaft cover. If you have ridden through deep water or live in a very wet area, I think it would be wise to inspect and lubricate both the u-joint end and the final drive end of the propeller shaft.
 
#30 ·
final drive

Evening Burn

do you know if this is an issue isolated to the "M" and if it affected later year models. I have a '07 C50T with 22,000 miles, so far no trouble of any kind...other than those pesky tires wearing out...HAHA
 
#33 · (Edited)
Evening Burn

do you know if this is an issue isolated to the "M" and if it affected later year models. I have a '07 C50T with 22,000 miles, so far no trouble of any kind...other than those pesky tires wearing out...HAHA
If you have a Suzuki and a shaft drive...I would check it out .
Especially the c50 ,and m50...same parts same assembly..I don't know about different years,I only have the 05,but my GUESS is they would all be the same..dry as a bone.
Better safe then sorry.
CS
 
#35 ·
I almost had a bad crash about 20 years ago due to lack of grease during manufacture. My 2 year old Yamaha XT600's lower steering head bearing seized up when I attempted to exit a highway at about 110 kph. I actually had to hit the road with my boot to help stand the bike back up because it continued on straight ahead when I tipped it in.

When I dismantled the steering head, the lower bearing was rusted out and the cage holding the tapered bearings had collapsed. The upper bearing was still like new, with plenty of grease.
 
#37 ·
I do appreciate the info Burn...but the bike has been so good to me for so long, I hate the idea there may be a major issue like this.

I suppose I will have this checked, although I was really hoping to dodge the bullet.

I imagine it will be much cheaper to have things checked & lubed now, rather than after I go sailing through my Memphis Shade windscreen from when the darned thing locks up while on a highway.

So, Thanks.
 
#39 ·
This is some great news burn. It sucks that you have to be the one to find out the hard way. We will all have to learn from this and check our driveshafts while the bikes are young. Mine only has 8000 Kms. About 5000 miles?? Too lazy to google it. Since I'm in canada, this will be a good winter project while the bike is on it's off season.

Any recommended grease burn? The manual said to use a Moly based grease. I await the idiot-proof how-to video.

How hard is it to get to the U-joint at the engine side of the driveshaft? Does the swingarm really have to be removed? I would like to check that as well.
 
#40 ·
I'm thinking the admins oughta take a closer look at Burn for the Member of the Month, he's done more to better our bikes via this forum than anyone else. THANK YOU BURN!!!!!
 
#43 ·
How far up the drive shaft is the rust? Could you post a picture of the entire drive shaft? There is a seal at the wheel end of the drive shaft that should keep the water out. Somehow it looks like there was a lot of water in the housing around the drive shaft and it just sat by the wheel until it rusted the drive shaft enough at the seal to let the water in. It looks like one of the photos shows rings where the seal had worn into the shaft.

Roger L
 
#44 · (Edited)
Wow guys Thanks I'm overwhelmed with appreciation!
Here is a couple videos I just did.
1 to show the shaft and the oil seal..helps to put things in place for ya.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zld5P4xoQ8E


1 to show what has to be done to grease the U Joint and front drive shaft splines.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HGXp_-VuylY

I don't think I left anything out ..I may have though I don't remember ...my mind is foggy..or smokey ,or maybe that was my room? lol:bluethum::twisted:
I realize most of you still have the fake swing arm on,so yours may appear different.There are 5 (i think) additional bolts to remove for the fake swing arm.
Thanks again everyone!
CS
 
#49 ·
Happy to be able to add something to this thread. I installed the DJ drive in my bike a few months ago so I'm familiar with how things are put together on the final drive. I was also very interested to read about your failure. If I remember the DJ drive installation instructions correctly, they advised to put some RTV sealant between the final drive housing and the propeller shaft housing flanges. There is no gasket here and is a possible source for water intrusion. Hope you get it all back together soon and can enjoy the 50 again.
 
#50 ·
Burn:
How did the water get between the two oil seals? I would have expected to see more rust on the drive shaft than there is. I could see if the splines had no grease they would wear out from lack of lube but you have some serious rust on the splines. Again, how did the water get between the two seals. Was there water in your final drive oil?

Roger L
 
#51 ·
No water at all in my rear drive oil.
No idea how water gets in...I can see water possibly getting behind the front ujoint boot,and leaking to the back,but I see no way water can get in the rear.:shock:
CS
 
#54 ·
So it sounds like our options are fix it ourselves, or take it to the dealer. What is the dealer gonna say when every single one of us drop our M's off to have the drive shaft lubed? And if they do lube it, the only way to know if they did anything is to tear it all apart again.

I still haven't seen anyone confirm that this is applicable to any years other than 2005 models? I know I've seen some 2005's with 40,000 miles already, and they're still running strong, and likely they didn't think to lube the drive shaft. And I'll bet DragonRider probably has over 50,000 miles by now. Maybe if you ride in a lot of rain it's a different story.
 
#58 · (Edited)
I seen no grease fitting on the u-joint itself.I also never seen mention of any fitting in the manual.

I too am very glad you didn't ban me :)
Thank you sir!
Any chance I can get a section under links ,and tutorials,so I can post some more stuff?
I would like to post my signature under a section called
"BURNCHASSIS HOW TO's"
I plan to make more videos when i do the final drive,and then I would like to post a HOW TO CHECK YOUR CAM CHAINS video next.
My signature is full,and It can be cleaned up nicely .
Thanks again everyone!
CS
 
#62 · (Edited)
a few more pics

If your going to do the U JOINT you'll need to remove the swing arm..be careful when you remove as to not damage these bearings posted in the pics to follow be sure you regrease them before you put it back together.
See how this is all 1 piece? u joint cover...mud splash/inner fender/swing arm.
See the video,and these pics will help.
CS
 
#63 · (Edited)
What a wealth of information.PUSH FOR A RECALL PLEASE!

As the owner of a 2006 C50t, (17,000 miles) I am equally concerned. It appears that even if we lubed the driveshaft splines (I didn't check yet) that we or a mechanic for that matter could have overlooked this problem. If there were ever a problem that should be reported to the NHTSA and suzuki, this is it. Even though I have an extended warranty (60 month) a SAFETY issue such as this should be covered by suzuki whether you have a warranty or not! THANK YOU FOR YOUR LEGWORK AND TIME IN SHOWING US ALL THIS POTENTIAL PROBLEM. Lets hope there are some attorneys out their that will insist on an investigation and help to pursue a recall if necessary. Your posts are very appreciated, as will be your follow-up to get the NHTSA and suzuki moving on this. I appreciate the "how to's" and videos, but realistically, Suzuki should handle this at NO CHARGE, since its very safety oriented. Thanks again. I hope if it's determined that a recall is in order, I get the notice from Suzuki , before I get my hands dirty, but I doubt it. This is the web site to report to I think: http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/
 
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