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  1. #1
    Lance Corporal Coppertone
    My Bike(s)
    2005 Boulevard C50T
    Location
    Alabama
    Posts
    371

    2005 C50T Backfire and Heating Problem

    Lately my bike, a 2005 Suzuki Boulevard C50T, has been backfiring here and there.. and occasionally it sounds like its backfiring from the front. The pop is not coming from the muffler but rather from the engine itself! Also, I'm not riding it hard, just casually cruising from home to college to work and so on.. smooth roads, pretty flat, and easy-going, but it seems after I ride for awhile, when I stop the bike, it will sputter and go dead, and then start right back a minute later with no problem. It seems like its overheating, but yet I'm not riding it hard and the bike is in perfect condition. I just replaced the radiator fluid, oil, new oil filter, and replaced every fuse. I'm fixing to buy new spark plugs... maybe that will help, and I've considered purchasing a new battery. Can anyone give me some help on this? If you recognize this problem or have any pointers for anything I can do, no matter how small, to make the bike run better, all input would be greatly appreciated. Also any suggestions on brands of radiator fluid, oil, spark plugs, battery, etc. to use.
    Lance Corporal Skillman, Saving the world one block of C4 at a time



    Who decided to start hitting a ball with a stick in order to ring a hole 300+ yards away??...

    Suzuki Boulevard C50T:
    Fully Debaffled Pipes // Home Fabricated 2" Lowers // Home Fabricated Tag Laydown Mod // Tank and Fender Chrome Trim // Pair Valve Removel Kit // "C50T" Emblem Debadged

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  3. #2
    Just Won't Go Away !
    My Bike(s)
    2010 Hayabusa... a black one... the fastest colour
    Location
    Perth WA
    Posts
    5,150
    I would suggest an air bubble trapped in the system...a common problem apparantly. As for the pop in the exhaust it sounds like it could be coming from the header which may need tightning. Make sure you do it cold and only to the specified torque or you could end up with a stripped bolt hole or stud. Failing this it could be the header gasket leaking which will entail removal of the header pipe/s and replacement.

    Good luck
    Smoke me a kipper I'll be home in time for breakfast

  4. #3
    Newbie
    My Bike(s)
    World's Fast Test Mule is BoneStock
    Location
    Oh beer dare down yawn dare
    Posts
    5
    Pop = Lean out the exhaust.
    Pop = Coming from engine is tight valve shooting out the intake through the carb/injector body.

    Stalls when hot = Metal expands, pushes the valve open when hot. Compression does not have enough pressure so it moves out the tight exhaust and that air meets cold air is a pop or lean being the flame front is coming out into the pipe from the open exhaust. The atmosphere is in the pipe, meets hot is like thunder clouds meet hot and cold is clash together.

    My guess is tight valve or dirty air cleaner for popping and or stalling is who knows is check compression so ass not to chase your tail.

  5. #4
    Lance Corporal Coppertone
    My Bike(s)
    2005 Boulevard C50T
    Location
    Alabama
    Posts
    371
    I'm still a little wet behind the ears when it comes to motorcycles, and definetly have very little experience with cruisers. So when you say an air bubble in the system, what exactly is the remedy for fixing that?
    Lance Corporal Skillman, Saving the world one block of C4 at a time



    Who decided to start hitting a ball with a stick in order to ring a hole 300+ yards away??...

    Suzuki Boulevard C50T:
    Fully Debaffled Pipes // Home Fabricated 2" Lowers // Home Fabricated Tag Laydown Mod // Tank and Fender Chrome Trim // Pair Valve Removel Kit // "C50T" Emblem Debadged

  6. #5
    M-J Lifetime Achievement Award
    My Bike(s)
    '10 Kaw Vulcan 900 Custom
    Location
    Ocala, FL
    Posts
    8,615
    Quote Originally Posted by teufulhunden07 View Post
    I'm still a little wet behind the ears when it comes to motorcycles, and definetly have very little experience with cruisers. So when you say an air bubble in the system, what exactly is the remedy for fixing that?
    Given the first part of your statement, WHY would you be changing parts based just on a wild guess ??
    HINT: That is not a good thing to do.....usually.

    When you drain and re-fill a radiator (on any vehicle), there is often air trapped that you can't get out. It evacuates itself during the first couple of driving cycles (hot to cold to hot) and then you are low on coolant.

    So, check the coolant level. You might really be overheating a bit due to low coolant level. Note that you might have to add coolant one or two more times, each time being a little bit less.
    Don't believe everything that you think.

  7. #6
    Just Won't Go Away !
    My Bike(s)
    2010 Hayabusa... a black one... the fastest colour
    Location
    Perth WA
    Posts
    5,150
    In the highly unlikely event that your valves are too tight you may get popping from exhaust headers...more likely to get a glowing exhaust pipe though.

    As for air bubbles in the cooling system the best way to remove them is as ER stated. If you do find the coolant low then that will probably be the culprit. If it is not then further examination of why it has now apparantly begun to overheat is paramount.

    Check the valve clearance by all means but generally the valve clearance tends to be excessive due to minor wear on the stems and cams over time.

    Check fuel delivery to the carbs and float level...if low it gives a lean condition. You will need the specs for this so a manual is a prerequisite. A simple thing to do is pull the plugs and check the colour. If white and blistered then a very lean condition is indicated and you need to find out why soon...prefereably before running the engine again.

    If they are black and sooty a rich condition is indicated and is not as bad as a lean one. Having said that an over rich condition can cause the lubricating oil in the cylinders to become very contaminated or in very bad conditions lead to it being washed away altogether.

    Check the aforementioned things and repost your findings.

    As for the popping I still think it is likely to be from your header pipe not the valves.

    Good luck.
    Smoke me a kipper I'll be home in time for breakfast

  8. #7
    Lance Corporal Coppertone
    My Bike(s)
    2005 Boulevard C50T
    Location
    Alabama
    Posts
    371
    I checked my gas tank lid and discovered the gasket was cracked on one side and was letting moisture in my gas tank. I replaced the gasket and the bike has been running better and I don't have the problems starting it up. I topped off the radiator (Thanks Aussie Steve and Easy Rider) and the bike is staying alot cooler now. But it still backfires occasionaly... I've got a friend who is a friend of a motorcycle mechanic and he's going to check it out for me this weekend and hopefully we'll see what the problem is. Thanks for the help.

    By the way, what brand battery do yall reccomend getting? I'm installing an engineglow kit, replacing the front and rear reflectors with the reflector marker lights, and putting bar end marker lights and a light bar on the front. I'll be pulling alot of juice and was wondering what brand battery would get the job done.
    Lance Corporal Skillman, Saving the world one block of C4 at a time



    Who decided to start hitting a ball with a stick in order to ring a hole 300+ yards away??...

    Suzuki Boulevard C50T:
    Fully Debaffled Pipes // Home Fabricated 2" Lowers // Home Fabricated Tag Laydown Mod // Tank and Fender Chrome Trim // Pair Valve Removel Kit // "C50T" Emblem Debadged

  9. #8
    Just Won't Go Away !
    My Bike(s)
    2010 Hayabusa... a black one... the fastest colour
    Location
    Perth WA
    Posts
    5,150
    Most recommend Jap batteries such as Yuasa many recommend stearing clear of Chinese ones myself included. Being in the USA you have a better selection and you may want to go online to get a better idea of what is available.

    You also may want to drain your carb bowels since water tends to collect at the base of them being heavier than gas. Tiny droplets will continue to be drawn up in the fuel and may cause further problems if there is any in there.

    Good luck
    Smoke me a kipper I'll be home in time for breakfast

  10. #9
    M-J Lifetime Achievement Award
    My Bike(s)
    '10 Kaw Vulcan 900 Custom
    Location
    Ocala, FL
    Posts
    8,615
    Quote Originally Posted by teufulhunden07 View Post
    By the way, what brand battery do yall reccomend getting? I'm installing an engineglow kit, replacing the front and rear reflectors with the reflector marker lights, and putting bar end marker lights and a light bar on the front. I'll be pulling alot of juice and was wondering what brand battery would get the job done.
    You should be MORE worried about the alternator than the battery.....but both are important.

    The charging system may not be able to handle the extra load and, regardless of what battery you have, the battery may slowly lose charge until one morning, it won't start. I think others here have reported that problem with a light bar that is too big (too many lights).

    A little searching here might find something more specific.
    Might also want to ask the mechanic when he is there.
    Don't believe everything that you think.


 

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