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Thread: slipping clutch

  1. #1
    Newbie
    My Bike(s)
    Yamaha Royal Star 1996
    Location
    Maryland
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    16

    slipping clutch

    I have a 1996 yamaha Royal Star and I have noticed a small drip comming from under the clutch housing. I have been sure it would be a bigger problem soon but have been waiting to see. Now the clutch is starting to slip. The bike has an hydrolic clutch and I was wondering if anyone can tell me which parts to replace? I have had a similar problem on a car I used to own and it took me three trys to get all of the parts nessesary replaced. I am pretty sure that the push rod seals need replaced but don't know if anything else needs replaced once the housing has been opened. Help!

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  3. #2
    Lost but forgotten

    My Bike(s)
    2012 Ninja 1000 ABS, 2002 Bandit 1200 S, 2002 Honda XR50R, 1992 Honda CR125R
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    Welcome. How many miles on the bike? Can you verify whether it's motor oil or hydraulic (brake) fluid that's leaking?
    'Busa shock, Racetech forks, Holeshot stage 1 & pipe, Hella headlights, CBRXX clipons, Givi E360 & V46, Zumo 550, Pilot Road 2CTs | Symtec grip heat
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  4. #3
    Newbie
    My Bike(s)
    Yamaha Royal Star 1996
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    Maryland
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    16
    30000 miles, and I am sure the leak is hydrolic. I have been talking to some friends and I just changed to a synthetic oil. I did not realize it was a wet clutch system. They say the oil may be the problem. What do you think. I bought the bike second hand and the previous owner did not use the bike for 2 years other than to start it every month.

    That is hydraulic clutch fluid.

  5. #4
    Lost but forgotten

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    The pushrod seals are for oil, not hydraulic fluid. I'd look at the slave cylinder. Whether your oil is causing slipping depends on which oil we're talking about. If it's the proper weight, it's fine.

    A bike with 30,000 miles might well have worn clutch plates and weak springs. It depends a lot on the riders' technique.
    'Busa shock, Racetech forks, Holeshot stage 1 & pipe, Hella headlights, CBRXX clipons, Givi E360 & V46, Zumo 550, Pilot Road 2CTs | Symtec grip heat
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  6. #5
    M-J Lifetime Achievement Award
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    '10 Kaw Vulcan 900 Custom
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    Quote Originally Posted by cmaresch View Post
    I have been talking to some friends and I just changed to a synthetic oil. I did not realize it was a wet clutch system. They say the oil may be the problem.
    Yes, I think you have two seperate problems; they just happen to be in the same area.

    On any engine with a lot of miles, it is NOT a good idea to change the type of oil it has been used to having.....that's just in general. On a bike with a wet clutch, any "energy conserving" oil is not good for the clutch. Either way, the different oil probably caused a weak clutch to start slipping a little sooner than it would have.

    If you are sure the leak is hydralic (brake) fluid, then the oil had nothing to do with that. Probably the slave cylindar or a fitting.
    Don't believe everything that you think.

  7. #6
    Wants Better Weather
    My Bike(s)
    06 XL1200R HD .......... 03 750 HONDA NIGHTHAWK
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    Central Arkansas (Greenbrier)
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    Quote Originally Posted by Easy Rider View Post

    On any engine with a lot of miles, it is NOT a good idea to change the type of oil it has been used to having....
    I have never seen an engine hooked on any brand of oil, rider mayby but not the engine.
    Those who beat their swords in to plowshares will work for those who did not.

  8. #7
    Newbie
    My Bike(s)
    Yamaha Royal Star 1996
    Location
    Maryland
    Posts
    16
    "The pushrod seals are for oil, not hydraulic fluid."
    Actually the part is called a push rod by the manufacturer and it is for the hydraulic clutch not the brakes. There is no cable on my bike, the clutch is hydraulic.
    Someone said he changed his oil to synthetic on his old HD and was told to change it at 500, 1000, and then 2500 miles and then he could go back to every 5000 miles. Do you think this problem could correct itself once the old oil is completely out of the system? I just want to be sure before I spend the time and money.
    Thank you.

  9. #8
    M-J Lifetime Achievement Award
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    Quote Originally Posted by cmaresch View Post
    "The pushrod seals are for oil, not hydraulic fluid."
    Actually the part is called a push rod by the manufacturer and it is for the hydraulic clutch not the brakes. There is no cable on my bike, the clutch is hydraulic.
    It appears to me that we have a communication problem again.

    The specific "pushrod" you are referring to is exactly WHERE and does exactly WHAT?

    I'm guessing that in this case it connects the slave clutch cylinder to the mechanical part of the clutch release (throw out). If that is the one AND the fluid that is leaking is hydralic fluid (same kind of fluid as is used for the brakes but has nothing to do with the brakes), then the faulty seal is part of (or attached to) the slave clutch cylinder.....yes ??

    On some bikes, the slave is located INSIDE the transmission case and you can't SEE when it is leaking. If yours is located outside, there could be TWO seals on the pushrod, one for the hydralic fluid and another for the oil inside the case.

    Maybe this is a good point for those of us who are not familiar with his specific model of bike to clam up (me included) ??

    As for the clutch, you are taking the wrong tact. If you want to (mostly) eliminate oil as the cause, put back the same kind of oil (as close as possible) that was used in the first 30K miles and then give it a little time.
    Don't believe everything that you think.

  10. #9
    Lost but forgotten

    My Bike(s)
    2012 Ninja 1000 ABS, 2002 Bandit 1200 S, 2002 Honda XR50R, 1992 Honda CR125R
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    Quote Originally Posted by cmaresch View Post
    Someone said he changed his oil to synthetic on his old HD and was told to change it at 500, 1000, and then 2500 miles and then he could go back to every 5000 miles.
    "Someone" is full of bologna. All oils are compatible in terms of a full change. Like ER said, the synth may have exacerbated an already weak clutch, but changing back will just delay the inevitable. Change out the proper parts, and install a stronger spring if that seems to be a common route with your particular bike. I know a lot of Bandit riders do just that.
    'Busa shock, Racetech forks, Holeshot stage 1 & pipe, Hella headlights, CBRXX clipons, Givi E360 & V46, Zumo 550, Pilot Road 2CTs | Symtec grip heat
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  11. #10
    Newbie
    My Bike(s)
    Yamaha Royal Star 1996
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    Maryland
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    16
    first of all I want to say thank you for your patients with me since I have no experience with wet clutch systems. I wish I could show you what the push rod is. I need to correct my language here because it is actually a "push lever". But it does reside inside the transmission housing and the seals on either end one for the clutch lever fluid (what ever it is) and one for the oil to stop them from mixing. That being said my situation has been solved, it seems that the cold weather has caused the clutch handle to stick and not to totally disengage. I noticed this today and tried out the bike with no slipping. I am sorry for wasting your time but I do appreciate the effort.

  12. #11
    Lost but forgotten

    My Bike(s)
    2012 Ninja 1000 ABS, 2002 Bandit 1200 S, 2002 Honda XR50R, 1992 Honda CR125R
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    Hmm. I've never had cold weather cause that. You might need to clean or rebuild the master cylinder, or at least clean and lube the lever pivot.
    'Busa shock, Racetech forks, Holeshot stage 1 & pipe, Hella headlights, CBRXX clipons, Givi E360 & V46, Zumo 550, Pilot Road 2CTs | Symtec grip heat
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    | Gerbings liner | Alpinestars SP-1 gloves | Hanes boxer-briefs
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  13. #12
    Top Gear ! Full Throttle!
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    Must live at the south pole hey!
    Smoke me a kipper I'll be home in time for breakfast

  14. #13
    Newbie
    My Bike(s)
    Yamaha Royal Star 1996
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    Maryland
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    16
    Ok it is not the South Pole but the bolt holding the clutch lever was snugged down just enough that when the weather dropped to below 35 the metal expanded to cause the sticking of the aluminum handle.

  15. #14
    Lost but forgotten

    My Bike(s)
    2012 Ninja 1000 ABS, 2002 Bandit 1200 S, 2002 Honda XR50R, 1992 Honda CR125R
    Location
    St. Cloud, MN, USA
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    20,861
    The metal expanded in the cold? Must be something new, maybe from the planet Krypton.
    'Busa shock, Racetech forks, Holeshot stage 1 & pipe, Hella headlights, CBRXX clipons, Givi E360 & V46, Zumo 550, Pilot Road 2CTs | Symtec grip heat
    Arai Signet GTR | Joe Rocket Meteor boots, Alter Ego pants, jacket
    | Gerbings liner | Alpinestars SP-1 gloves | Hanes boxer-briefs
    Gems for motorcyclists

  16. #15
    Newbie
    My Bike(s)
    Yamaha Royal Star 1996
    Location
    Maryland
    Posts
    16
    so I guess on your planet you have never seen ice expand and crack an ice cube tray? What planet do you live on?


 

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