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  1. #16
    Newbie
    My Bike(s)
    2009 ER-6n
    Posts
    7

    Re: Stop & Go kills my 85 Magna V45 battery.

    Quote Originally Posted by Y2K View Post
    Riding between the cars inbetween lanes,not legal most places but it is in CA.

    It's called splitting lanes. You can run the shoulders too.

    And it's not just the Communist state of California that it's legal...there's a few

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  3. #17
    M-J Lifetime Achievement Award
    My Bike(s)
    '10 Kaw Vulcan 900 Custom
    Location
    Ocala, FL
    Posts
    8,653
    Quote Originally Posted by AmericanPride View Post
    It's called splitting lanes. You can run the shoulders too.

    And it's not just the Communist state of California that it's legal...there's a few
    I've been doing this for a LONG time and that's the first I've heard of that.
    Would you give us some more information, please ??

    I've always heard that most of it isn't even "legal" in California but just that it isn't enforced there.......when it is done in a sane manner.
    Don't believe everything that you think.

  4. #18
    Fender Buffer
    My Bike(s)
    Honda RR8
    Location
    Montana, U.S.A.
    Posts
    418
    California has no laws explicitly prohibiting lane splitting, and is the only U.S. state for which official statements state that lane splitting, when done safely, is legal.[60][61]

    Lane splitting - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
    Survey Says Drivers Ignorant of Lane Splitting - Motorcycle USA

    I pulled this off of a legal site.

    While most states do not recognize lane splitting as a legal maneuver, they also do not specifically prohibit it. However, police and the courts often interpret lane splitting as unlawful. One state, California, does specifically permit lane splitting, but only if it is done in a "safe and prudent" manner. Of course, the definition of "safe and prudent" is very much up to interpretation by police officers and judges.

    Obviously I am bored and it is freezing out side. Stay safe out there guys.
    [

  5. #19
    Ditch Magnet
    Location
    B.C. Canada
    Posts
    150
    Quote Originally Posted by Easy Rider View Post
    I think a couple of things are happening here: An old, weak battery AND your idle speed is too low.......or you have added accessories drawing too much.What have you done......checked connections at both ends of the main cables......checked connectors on th R/R.....????You should get the battery load tested.ORRead carefully, details are important here:Trickle charge overnight. Then let it sit unused for a few hours.If the voltage at that point is less than 12.6 Volts, the battery is likely bad; ditto if it drops below 12.6 with just the ignition and lights on before starting.You can't really do a good test on the charging system until you are absolutely sure the battery is good.Sounds like yours is NOT.If you get a new battery, it must be charged BEFORE using.
    Ok. So I charged the battery on a real slow, 2A charge over night. Immediately after removing the charger clamps, the reading was 13.42V. Three hours later, the reading was 12.78V, and the 24 hours after that, it was 12.80V. All these reading were taken with the battery still on the shelf, and not in the bike. Tomorrow, I'll put the battery back in, and see what reading I get with just the ignition and lights on before starting.

  6. #20
    Ditch Magnet
    Location
    B.C. Canada
    Posts
    150
    Quote Originally Posted by Drifter View Post
    http://www.electrosport.com/media/pd...ng-diagram.pdfI am laying my money down on bad stator, but do the test and see what you come up with.
    That is a GREAT diagram!!! Thanks!

  7. #21
    M-J Lifetime Achievement Award
    My Bike(s)
    '10 Kaw Vulcan 900 Custom
    Location
    Ocala, FL
    Posts
    8,653
    Quote Originally Posted by hondanewbie View Post
    and see what reading I get with just the ignition and lights on before starting.
    It shouldn't drop more than a couple of tenths; certainly not below 12.

    And I keep harping on idle speed.......and you seem to be ignoring that.

    While you still may have a stator or regulator problem, I suspect not because of the ~13.8 reading you get when rev'ed.
    Don't believe everything that you think.

  8. #22
    Ditch Magnet
    Location
    B.C. Canada
    Posts
    150
    Quote Originally Posted by Easy Rider View Post
    It shouldn't drop more than a couple of tenths; certainly not below 12.And I keep harping on idle speed.......and you seem to be ignoring that.While you still may have a stator or regulator problem, I suspect not because of the ~13.8 reading you get when rev'ed.
    Sorry! The bike idle is at 1000rpm, which I'll double check, but I think that's right where the book says it should be. Do you suspect it should be a little higher?(sorry, I wasn't ignoring it, I'm just really forgetful). So if it dips below 12V when I turn the key. . .? (If I remember, it will. It'll drop to around 11.5) And I don't see any added things that might drain a battery. Extra lights, signals, or anything like tht.

  9. #23
    Ditch Magnet
    Location
    B.C. Canada
    Posts
    150
    OK! So here are the full spectrum battery readings thus far, after a full charge:

    Overnight, slow charge
    Fresh off charger - 13.42V
    3 hours later - 12.78V
    24 hours later - 12.80V

    Installed the battery

    Installed, connected, but ignition off - 12.67V
    Ignition turned on(not started), voltage immediately starts to drop. After about 10 seconds, it levels off at 11.85V
    Started the bike, choke on, it was idling around 1900rpm - 13.30V
    Idled up to around 2500rpm - now down to 13.00V
    Now, the choke is still on, its around 2500rpm, the voltage is jumping between 12.70V and 13.30V
    Turned off the choke, it's idling at 1000rpm - 11.96V

    I let the bike get up to temp
    I revved it upwards of 3000rpm and the voltage now never gets above 12.05V

    I turned the bike off(ignition off also) and the battery reads 12.40V
    Ignition turned on(but bike not started) battery reads 11.93V
    As the bike turned over, and started, the voltage dipped to 10.47V
    It then idled at 1000rpm, and now reads 11.95V

    Turned off the bike, removed the battery, and it's voltage now reads 12.44V

    I wrote these all down in the order they happened.

    So I know I cant really get a diagnosis of any real sort from these reading, but hopefully it'll help point to either the stator, 3 yellow wire connector, or the R/R.

    Geez I'd love to get this fixed
    Last edited by hondanewbie; 01-07-2013 at 06:31 PM.

  10. #24
    M-J Lifetime Achievement Award
    My Bike(s)
    '10 Kaw Vulcan 900 Custom
    Location
    Ocala, FL
    Posts
    8,653
    Quote Originally Posted by hondanewbie View Post
    It then idled at 1000rpm, and now reads 11.95V

    Turned off the bike, removed the battery, and it's voltage now reads 12.44V
    Your readings look a little funny but not too unusual for a failing charging system and an old battery.
    I'm a little concerned that the reading is higher with the battery disconnected than when it is hooked up; that should NOT happen.
    You might want to double check that......and see if there is a little spark when the last lead makes connection.

    First you need to take the battery to a bike shop or battery store for a load test, after charging for a few hours.
    If it is marginal, get a new one; charge before use.
    If you do get a new battery, all your readings need to be done again.
    I suspect that you have a charging systemproblem too.......but don't guess; test.

    Then the stator needs to be tested. That is done at the "3 yellow wires" connector, with the connector unplugged.
    On the yellow wires going back into the engine (NOT the side going to the R/R):
    There should not be any grounds on any of the 3 wires. If there is, the stator is bad.
    Then with the engine running, there should be 40 V AC (minimum) between each pair of yellow wires.
    When rev'ed a bit, the readings should be higher, like 60 VAC and all 3 readings should be about equal.
    Careful as that AC voltage can give you quite a bite.
    Don't believe everything that you think.

  11. #25
    Ditch Magnet
    Location
    B.C. Canada
    Posts
    150
    No ground = No continuity?

  12. #26
    M-J Lifetime Achievement Award
    My Bike(s)
    '10 Kaw Vulcan 900 Custom
    Location
    Ocala, FL
    Posts
    8,653
    Quote Originally Posted by hondanewbie View Post
    No ground = No continuity?
    No continuity to the frame or negative battery post.
    Set meter to a mid-range Ohms scale. Touch leads together to see what a short will look like.
    Unplug the connector.
    Connect one meter lead to ground; touch the other one to another ground to be sure you have a good connection.
    Touch the other lead to each yellow wire one at a time; that is, the side of the connector going into the case to the stator.
    You should NOT get a reading. If you do, the insulation on the stator is burnt and it is shorted to ground.

    If that passes, then check the continuity across each pair of yellow wires.
    You should get a very low reading, something like 3-7 ohms, on the lowest scale.
    All 3 readings should be about the same.

    If all that comes out good, then start the engine and measure the AC voltage across each pair of wires, with the connector still disconnected.
    Don't believe everything that you think.

  13. #27
    Ditch Magnet
    Location
    B.C. Canada
    Posts
    150
    Ok so I did the test. Between all 3 yellow wires(not a ground test) my reading was 0.8 on all 3 tests with the ohm meter set at 200. Then with the ground test, from each yellow wire, to the battery ground cable(battery removed) I got no reading at all, from each yellow wire

    I'll have to do the final test, with the bike running, tomorrow. I ran out of time today. What am I looking for during that test? And where am I going to need my meter set to?

    (And thanks so much for all the help)
    Last edited by hondanewbie; 01-09-2013 at 04:25 PM.

  14. #28
    Ditch Magnet
    Location
    B.C. Canada
    Posts
    150
    And if it tests oK, is it possible to test the R/R while its still on the bike?

  15. #29
    M-J Lifetime Achievement Award
    My Bike(s)
    '10 Kaw Vulcan 900 Custom
    Location
    Ocala, FL
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    8,653
    Quote Originally Posted by hondanewbie View Post
    Then with the ground test, from each yellow wire, to the battery ground cable(battery removed) I got no reading at all, from each yellow wire

    I'll have to do the final test, with the bike running, tomorrow. I ran out of time today. What am I looking for during that test? And where am I going to need my meter set to?
    SIGH.

    So far, it appears that the stator probably is good.

    I told you in a previous post how to do the "live" stator test. It gets kind of old repeating the same thing over and over.
    Additional information: The meter must be set for AC voltage and a range above 100 volts.
    With 3 wires, there are 3 possible pairs. You need to test each pair.

    It is difficult to actually test the R/R. Usually you test everything else and then conclude that it is the only thing left that can be bad. At some point, you need to carefully inspect any grounds at or near the R/R. And since the yellow wire connector was in bad shape, you probably should visit it again to be sure it is making good connection.

    And remember that I said you need to get the battery load tested before you make a set of final voltage measurements and decide what needs to be done.

    A really LOT of folks replace the stator and/or the regulator on a guess.......only to end up finding out that the real problem was the battery.
    Last edited by Easy Rider; 01-10-2013 at 09:16 AM.
    Don't believe everything that you think.

  16. #30
    Ditch Magnet
    Location
    B.C. Canada
    Posts
    150
    So I remember after the first time I cleaned the 3YW connector, I got a reading of 13.80V, and never again after that. So here are a couple pics of it. I thought it was clean this whole time, but I guess not. I tried cleaning it again, but it didn't get any cleaner than this, and I still get low reading. So Monday I'm just going to buy a new battery either way, the load test was "inconlusive", whatever the hell that means. And then I'll start checking all the grounds again.







 

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