Planning on buy a Suzuki C90T 2008
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  1. #1

    Planning on buy a Suzuki C90T 2008

    Hi All,

    I am looking to purchase a Motorcycle for Touring small and long distances. The dealer in my area has a Suzuki C90T 2008 for sale at $3700. I sat on the bike and it felt very comfortable, easy to get on and actually felt really light. I could easily see myself on one soon. That was at the dealer, then I did some research on the C90 and C90T. There seem to have been alot of issues with the Stator on these bikes. I was wondering how big of an issue this is. The bike is already just over my budget, so I wouldn't plan on having to put any additional work on it. It does have low mileage at around 16000. My concern is that perhaps someone traded it in because of that issue and I don't want to purchase a bike that may pretty soon experience that issue. It is a very nice bike though and looks sharp. Has Suzuki ever addressed that issue before 2008 or is the Stator issue only on older C90 bikes?

    Thanks for the replies, I just want to keep the bike I buy for a very long time and will take care of it, but I am not even close to being a mechanic. I think I can handle an oil change, but that may be it


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  3. #2
    Super Moderator

    My Bike(s)
    Can-AM Spyder
    Ocala, FL
    If this is a first bike, the C90 probably is too much bike.

    If this is a reputable and competent dealer, they should be able to inspect the stator and see if it show signs of failure.
    Don't believe everything that you think.

  4. #3
    My Bike(s)
    Boulevard C90
    South Africa
    A little over 2 years ago I bought a 2006 C90 Boulevard. On one of the very early rides I parked in a place that needed backing out of to leave. On pushing back after a couple of yards the bike wouldn't go back any further, like the brakes were on. After this it wouldn't push forward either, like the brakes were on. The engine wouldn't turn with the starter motor either. Everything was jammed.

    On opening the right-side cover I found that the rotor on the output shaft, the one that signals to the odometer had unscrewed and jammed itself against the clutch. That's the reason the engine wouldn't turn - the clutch gear which meshes with the crankshaft was jammed by the rotor having unscrewed against it. The bike wouldn't push back for the same reason - pushing back turned the output shaft, which tried to unscrew the rotor further against the clutch gear.

    Pushing forward should have had the opposite effect - the screw the rotor back into the output shaft and relieving the contact with the clutch gear, but now the thread was damaged and it wouldn't screw in any more. In fact by pushing the bike forward during the recovery the entire rotor came out of the output shaft and fell away to the bottom of the gear case. Don't bother to look for the rotor on the garbage Suzuki calls a parts breakdown because it isn't shown any where. If you pull the sensor on the right side of the engine, just above the oil filler you'll see the rotor.

    Since the rotor doesn't exist in the parts catalogue at the Suzuki agency, it is not possible to order a new one. The part officially doesn't exist (I wish I was making this up). Also since the M14 Fine thread on the rotor was seriously damaged I couldn't put it back (which entailed stripping the clutch off the engine). What was clearly visible at the time was that the end of the output shaft was below flush with the bearing that carried it by about .010 inches. As if the rotor when it contacted the clutch gear had tried to push the shaft across to the left of the engine. What other explanation could there be? It seemed unlikely that some Japanese would machine a shaft that was 10 thou too short.

    To get going I remade the rotor in 3 pieces. One was a bush to reduce the M14 fine thread to M8, second was a mild steel disc with 4 cutouts similar to the original rotor, and third was a countersunk M8 allen screw to hold the rotor to the bush. One advantage of going this route was that the clutch gear did not need removal. I screwed the bush into the end of the shaft and loctited it. Then I attached the new rotor disc to the shaft with the countersunk allen screw. And went riding.

    After a short time the allen screw came loose. Why? Because the end of the shaft was still below flush with the bearing, and tightening the allen screw pulled the disc hard against the bearing, but not tight against the shaft's end, because it wasn't touching the shaft's end. Some Japanese had indeed machined the shaft too short.

    The solution? Put some spacers between the end of the shaft and the inner face of the rotor disc to take up the gap. I did that and it worked - I've been riding the repair for nearly 2 years now and it works fine.

    Three things came out of this. First the parts manual from Suzuki as well as the TechSpark version I have are both rubbish. In fact they're identical.

    Second, I doubt that the 'some Japanese' only made one shaft too short - there must be many out there.

    Third, this was not the first time this rotor had unscrewed. In fact the reason I got this bike so cheap was the previous guy was desperate to unload it, having found a problem he couldn't solve.

    Caveat emptor

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  6. #4
    My Bike(s)
    2017 Suzuki M50 Boulevard
    I bought a 2008 with 2000 miles on it, the problems I encountered were the smaller gas tank, 3.5 I believe. The starter after about 4000 miles gave me problems when it was hot out and after riding and turning off the bike, to get gas or whatever, three bike wouldn't always start because the solenoid that engages the starter overheats, you have to let it cool down before it will start, around 10 mins or so. The last thing was it was hard starting in the cold, fuel injected no choke, still all in all a pretty decent bike, never had a problem with stator, had only about 6k when I sold it. Hope this helps.

  7. #5
    My Bike(s)
    2013 C50T Boulevard
    Kev, I had an 05 C90T for 10 years. One stator replacement at around 20k miles. There is a forum called LCRiders....they had information on at mod called mod 3...this fixed the charging issues on my bike. As stated, I did replace one stator and while there, I replace the rectifier as well...sold the bike with 60k miles on it with nary another problem....just my the bike! In my was almost bullet proof! I sold it only because the bike was getting to heavy for me (age 67+) My replacement was a 13 model it too...all bikes have quirks and


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