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Suzuki GS500 gear engaging problem

18K views 7 replies 3 participants last post by  cyrusyn 
#1 ·
Hi everone,
I got myself a Suzuki GS500 recently.
Tonight, I was test driving it around my block and as I was riding for 5 minutes I felt that shifting into 1st gear and neutral gear was increasingly becoming difficult. Downshifting into neutral, gear pedal kept skipping neutral. Finally I was able to go into neutral after several tries and when I upshifted into 1st gear, engine stalled. From this point and on, as I squeeze clutch lever, whenever I engage 1st gear or 2nd gear, engine stalls.
What is causing this?
Your help is much appreciated.
Tyler
 
#2 ·
I got myself a Suzuki GS500 recently.

From this point and on, as I squeeze clutch lever, whenever I engage 1st gear or 2nd gear, engine stalls.
What year? How many miles?
How long since an oil change?

Sounds like your clutch cable needs adjustment (too much slack).
It could be stretching and about ready to break.
Also idle speed could be too fast.
 
#3 ·
This is a 2001 GS500 with 30,000miles on it.
Oil change was done about two weeks ago.
Idle speed was between 800 to 2000 rpm
Which clutch cable adjuster do I have to adjust in this case? Engine side or handle side? Do I tighten it or loose it?
Thanks so much for your reply.
 
#4 ·
This is a 2001 GS500 with 30,000miles on it.

Idle speed was between 800 to 2000 rpm

Engine side or handle side? Do I tighten it or loose it?
Seven years and 30K miles; yep, might be due for a new clutch cable.

Lower gears and neutral might act a LOT different at an 800 rpm idle than they would at 2000 rpm idle. Do you have a tach? If so, what is your actual idle speed? If it varies between 800 and 2000 from cold to hot, you need some carb work !! (or you need to adjust it down a bit and use the choke longer). For most bikes, the recommended idle is 1000 to 1200; 2000 is WAY too high.

You check the slack AND adjust it at the lever (handle).
Which way you move the adjustment depends on whether you need more slack or less.
 
#6 ·
The idle sounds fine.

The clutch has two points of adjustment at least...some have three. The excess cable slack needs to be taken up at the engine end. Leave some slack to be taken up at the bar lever...about 10mm movement. Adjust the bar lever till there is about three mm of cable movement before any resistance from the clutch actuating mechanism can be felt.

The clutch rod clearance may need attention if your bike has this adjustment but try the above first and post the result. Many Jap bikes dispensed with this adjustment and once the cable reaches a certain length it is to be replaced.

Good luck.
 
#7 ·
The idle sounds fine.
Yes. I offer a suggestion though. The choke is not an all or nothing proposition. If the engine runs smoothly at 1500 rpm when cold with partial choke, there is no reason to have it on all the way and run it up to 2K.......and even if you need it all the way on to start, you shouldn't have to leave it like that for more than a few seconds before you can back it down a bit.

Probably has nothing to do with the shifting problem......unless you only notice it when cold and "idling" at 2000 rpm.
 
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