2002 Suzuki GZ250 not starting
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  1. #1
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    Exclamation 2002 Suzuki GZ250 not starting

    Hello everyone I am new to the forum. I just purchased a 2002 Suzuki GZ250 for $300. It was originally listed for $600 but the owner was moving to a new apartment where he did not have a place to store the bike so he dropped the price.


    He listed the bike explaining that it had a sticky exhaust valve issue. I bought the bike because I want to take up fixing it as a hobby and learn some cool stuff mechanically. I am a complete beginner when it comes to working on motorcycles. As far as my mechanical background goes I have a few months of experience repairing and maintaining CNC machines, but that is all.


    The owner said that it had been running before but it is very random. Sometimes it runs and sometimes it doesn't. It sat in his garage for about a year. Surprisingly, my Dad started it the other day and when he shifted it into 1st gear it stalled. It hasn't started since. I read the Owner's Manual and found the troubleshooting section. I started trouble shooting the carburetor to see if it was getting fuel. I drained the carburetor, turned the fuel valve to PRI (prime) and fuel did in fact flow from the drain hole. Then I turned the fuel valve to the ON position, drained the carburetor, and tightened the drain screw. Next, I pushed the electric starter button to crank the engine. Obviously it did not turn on. I then loosened the drain screw to see if the carburetor filled up with fuel and it was empty. No fuel came out. I tried this twice. I then tightened the drain screw again. I turned the fuel valve to PRI and went inside my house to get something. When I came back there was fuel all over the ground! I turned the fuel valve back to ON. I tried to start the engine again but it did not work and the battery started dying. I decided to put troubleshooting on pause to charge the battery.


    So two problems: FIRST, when I drained the carburetor and tried to start the engine the carburetor did not fill back up. SECOND, I turned the fuel valve to PRI and the fuel leaked out of the engine all over the ground. I know it did not leak from the carburetor because the drain screw was tight and I had a pan underneath the carburetor to catch any fuel. The fuel leaked from somewhere else in the engine.


    My first step is to do as much research possible. I am searching Google and Youtube for anything that can point me in the right direction. I have not read the service manual yet, I will do that tomorrow probably. I briefly skimmed the parts manual. If anyone can point me in the right direction that would be fantastic! Thank you!

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  3. #2
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    Welcome. I don't know why the system flagged your first two post attempts. I've fixed this one and deleted the other.

    When you were running gas through the drain in the carb, some "crud" probably got stuck in the needle valve and now the carb is overflowing into the engine.

    That probably means a carb tear down.....at least partial, to clean out the needle valve that is attached to the float.

    If that is what is happening, the oil is now shot......because it has gas in it.
    Don't believe everything that you think.

  4. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Easy Rider View Post
    Welcome. I don't know why the system flagged your first two post attempts. I've fixed this one and deleted the other.

    When you were running gas through the drain in the carb, some "crud" probably got stuck in the needle valve and now the carb is overflowing into the engine.

    That probably means a carb tear down.....at least partial, to clean out the needle valve that is attached to the float.

    If that is what is happening, the oil is now shot......because it has gas in it.
    I found where the fuel was leaking from. When I turn the fuel valve to prime it floods the carburetor and comes out of a hose connected to the top of the carburetor. The hose travels to the back of the bike underneath the seat and sits open. I'm assuming this is a relief/overflow tube.

    I got the bike to run today, but it stalled out. I kept the throttle way open but it only lasted about a minute before it stalled. After it stalled I tried to start it again but I think I drained the battery because it stopped cranking and kept making a clicking sound.


    I figured there must be a deeper issue than the battery so I started to take apart the carburetor. I'm following the disassembly instructions in the service manual and carefully bagging the parts with labels. Looks like the last person that worked on the carburetor didn't take care of it because all the screws are stripped. I couldn't get most of the screws out because they're super stripped. I'm gonna buy some tools and order the rebuild kit for the carburetor tomorrow. Hopefully I can get the screws off with some needle nose pliers. Worst case scenario I'll have to drill them out.


    Thanks for the advice. I'll have updates as soon as I get my tools and rebuild kit.

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  6. #4
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    Given all that you said this time......I think you would be better off getting a used carb in good condition.
    There were a LOT of model years that the GZ didn't change much and it's like the carbs were identical.

    Then.....if the gas was rushing out the top of the carb through the breather hose (that is not meant to be an overflow), then it was running into the engine too.
    YOU NEED TO CHANGE THE OIL BEFORE YOU RUN IT MUCH......or you might ruin the engine.
    Don't believe everything that you think.

  7. #5
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    this note is very tiring to see all the time

  8. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrsuzukitech View Post
    this note is very tiring to see all the time
    What note exactly ??

    IF you are talking about the little "saying" in my signature........get over it.
    I think you have complained about this before.

    If you don't have anything better than that to contribute, maybe you should just stop posting anything.
    Don't believe everything that you think.

  9. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Easy Rider View Post
    Given all that you said this time......I think you would be better off getting a used carb in good condition.
    There were a LOT of model years that the GZ didn't change much and it's like the carbs were identical.

    Then.....if the gas was rushing out the top of the carb through the breather hose (that is not meant to be an overflow), then it was running into the engine too.
    YOU NEED TO CHANGE THE OIL BEFORE YOU RUN IT MUCH......or you might ruin the engine.
    So I was able to get the carburetor apart without drilling any screws, thank god! I ordered the rebuild kit yesterday so it should be here next week. Honestly the inside looks like its in good shape. I am going to check the float height and the needle valve tonight. I am a little hesitant to take all the jets out because if I don't reassemble them correctly I am going to cause more problems.


    I checked to see if the spark plug was working properly and found that it wasn't sparking on a full battery. It has a lot of carbon on the electrode so I am going to order a new one and replace it.


    I also decided to check the valve clearances on the engine. I took the valve covers, the valve timing inspection plug, and generator cover cap off. That's when I found a new problem. I tried to crank the engine to TDC and it wouldn't rotate counter clockwise at all. I then rotated it clockwise but it wouldn't even go a full 360 degrees before it hit something. My guess is the piston is hitting the valves because the timing of the cams are off. I also did a compression test. I did one with my finger on the spark plug hole and felt nothing. I also did one with a compression gauge on the spark plug hole and got nothing too. Zero compression.


    I'm not really sure about how to adjust the valves. First thing I am going to do after work is make sure the valves are moving when I crank the piston. I really hope I don't have to take the engine off the frame. The valves are in a tricky spot right under the top of the bike's frame so they are hard to see/reach/work on. I might try taking the cylinder head cover off.

  10. #8

  11. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by yashbhatt215 View Post
    I'm not really sure about how to adjust the valves.
    You should have figured that out BEFORE you started taking things apart.
    And in my opinion, you should not take ANYTHING ELSE apart......at least not before you get a shop manual.
    The valves on that model might not even be adjustable.

    I think you are in way over your head here.......WAY OVER.
    Don't believe everything that you think.

  12. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Easy Rider View Post
    You should have figured that out BEFORE you started taking things apart.
    And in my opinion, you should not take ANYTHING ELSE apart......at least not before you get a shop manual.
    The valves on that model might not even be adjustable.

    I think you are in way over your head here.......WAY OVER.
    this made me start laughing so hard. hey we all start somewhere. not all of us have been working on things since we were 10. we all gained knowledge by trial and lots of error. heck, i spent 8 hours building pipes for my bike to learn that the motor wouldnt run with them. yes a shop manual would help. its a $300 project bike. i think we all have tore into stuff and half way through went ummmm, well she-it.

  13. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Easy Rider View Post
    You should have figured that out BEFORE you started taking things apart.
    And in my opinion, you should not take ANYTHING ELSE apart......at least not before you get a shop manual.
    The valves on that model might not even be adjustable.

    I think you are in way over your head here.......WAY OVER.
    So your first advice was to buy a completely new carburetor without even looking at the old one. Your second advice is to do nothing. Thanks for your help..

    Anyway, last night I checked to see if the valves were moving in the small amount of rotation that I'm able to crank the piston. The intake valves move up and down, but the exhaust valves do not move at all. I tried to take off the cylinder head cover but I'm stuck on these two bolts that are starting to strip. Who knew the hardest part about working on a motorcycle would be taking the bolts and screws off! Anyway, my guess is the exhaust valves are stuck open. I'm gonna have to figure out how to get the head cover off first.


    If the exhaust valves are stuck open does that mean I can pull on them or loosen them up to get them moving again? I'd imagine that could mess with the timing of the cams?


    Also I still need to do a wet compression test. Maybe If I put some oil in the spark plug hole I'll get some compression.

  14. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by yashbhatt215 View Post
    So your first advice was to buy a completely new carburetor without even looking at the old one. Your second advice is to do nothing. Thanks for your help..

    Anyway, last night I checked to see if the valves were moving in the small amount of rotation that I'm able to crank the piston. The intake valves move up and down, but the exhaust valves do not move at all. I tried to take off the cylinder head cover but I'm stuck on these two bolts that are starting to strip. Who knew the hardest part about working on a motorcycle would be taking the bolts and screws off! Anyway, my guess is the exhaust valves are stuck open. I'm gonna have to figure out how to get the head cover off first.


    If the exhaust valves are stuck open does that mean I can pull on them or loosen them up to get them moving again? I'd imagine that could mess with the timing of the cams?


    Also I still need to do a wet compression test. Maybe If I put some oil in the spark plug hole I'll get some compression.
    in all fairness he was trying to help. we assume everyone has the mechanical know how and we forget we started by trial and error.... if you can get access to the spring of the valve you can try tapping/ lightly pry upwards on it to get it moving. you do not have to remove the head to free it. but being you felt the piston contact the valve... you might need a valve job. and you are using 6 point metric sockets? they help avoid stripping. if not you could try hammering on a smaller standard socket. (i have done this a few times)
    Last edited by DivineChaos; 05-23-2019 at 10:04 AM.

  15. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by yashbhatt215 View Post
    Also I still need to do a wet compression test. Maybe If I put some oil in the spark plug hole I'll get some compression.
    WAY over your head.
    It appears that you don't understand how an engine even works.

    In order to get compression, ALL the valves must work right.
    IF the exhaust valves are stuck so bad that you can't turn the engine through a full rotation.......a little oil on the top of the piston isn't going to accomplish anything.

    I quit. You are wasting your time.......and ours too.
    Don't believe everything that you think.

  16. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Easy Rider View Post
    WAY over your head.
    It appears that you don't understand how an engine even works.

    In order to get compression, ALL the valves must work right.
    IF the exhaust valves are stuck so bad that you can't turn the engine through a full rotation.......a little oil on the top of the piston isn't going to accomplish anything.

    I quit. You are wasting your time.......and ours too.
    No actually I'm here to learn. Sounds like you're here to be a douchebag.

  17. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by yashbhatt215 View Post
    No actually I'm here to learn. Sounds like you're here to be a douchebag.
    You can't learn without listening.

    And you won't learn anything if you throw around insults and get yourself kicked off.

    Your move.
    Don't believe everything that you think.


 
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