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Perfect set-up

13K views 12 replies 10 participants last post by  WashburnD10 
#1 ·
Traded my customized Roadstar in for a Stratoliner a couple of months ago. Took me two rides to figure out I made the right choice...Great power, handles like a dream...but boring exhaust note!

what is the best set-up for pipes (not too loud like the Sppedtar dragpipes on my Roadie sounded), along with a mapping system?

Want to gain a little power, let the truckers know when I'm passing, but not cause my wife any more brain damage (she's usually behind me on her new 950 V Star>>>)>

Opinions welcome!

Also, want to go with a fairing-Quadzilla or Dragonfly? Love to find a like-new one for sale...
 
#2 · (Edited)
Hi not sure if you're still around these forums are a bit quiet but after much research of my new (3 weeks or so now) Liner I pulled the trigger on some Roadhouse slipon's for my Liner. I could not be happier they give a nice, deep meaty rumble at ide and cruise and really bark when you get on the throttle, not to mention increase power along with other goodies I put on. I put them on in conjunction with the Patrick Racing Big Air Kit and a Power Commander V fuel injection module with the Auto Tune chip as well. Indeed the cages know I'm coming or next to them now when I need them to be.

First thing you want to decide is if the EXUP valve is important to you or not. I personally wanted to keep the EXUP valve as it's key to this bikes big torque and I didn't want to lose that. Many say with a complete new exhaust you lose some low end torque due to dropping the head pipe EXUP. The slip-on mufflers just call for taking the big stovepipe stock back end off and your new exhaust "slips" over the stock head exhaust keeping the powerful EXUP in place.

The two biggest brands and most respected slip-on exhaust systems for the Liners seem to be Roadhouse brand like I have and D&D brand. I've provided some links below you may want to google around and check out other storefronts. There are even some youtube video's of how they sound although none of them do any justice. Good luck and let us know if you pulled the trigger or when you do!

Roadhouse Brand slip on exhaust for Yamaha Liners: Roadhouse Brand Online

D&D slip on exhaust for Yamaha Liners: D&D Exhaust | Yamaha | 2006~2008 - Yamaha Stratoliner - 517-12B - Slip-ons
 
#10 ·
Hi not sure if you're still around these forums are a bit quiet but after much research of my new (3 weeks or so now) Liner I pulled the trigger on some Roadhouse slipon's for my Liner. I could not be happier they give a nice, deep meaty rumble at ide and cruise and really bark when you get on the throttle, not to mention increase power along with other goodies I put on. I put them on in conjunction with the Patrick Racing Big Air Kit and a Power Commander V fuel injection module with the Auto Tune chip as well. Indeed the cages know I'm coming or next to them now when I need them to be.

First thing you want to decide is if the EXUP valve is important to you or not. I personally wanted to keep the EXUP valve as it's key to this bikes big torque and I didn't want to lose that. Many say with a complete new exhaust you lose some low end torque due to dropping the head pipe EXUP. The slip-on mufflers just call for taking the big stovepipe stock back end off and your new exhaust "slips" over the stock head exhaust keeping the powerful EXUP in place.

The two biggest brands and most respected slip-on exhaust systems for the Liners seem to be Roadhouse brand like I have and D&D brand. I've provided some links below you may want to google around and check out other storefronts. There are even some youtube video's of how they sound although none of them do any justice. Good luck and let us know if you pulled the trigger or when you do!

Roadhouse Brand slip on exhaust for Yamaha Liners: Roadhouse Brand Online

D&D slip on exhaust for Yamaha Liners: D&D Exhaust | Yamaha | 2006~2008 - Yamaha Stratoliner - 517-12B - Slip-ons
Hey brother
I know that this is a couple of years old now, but I was curious if you had a dynatune done if you would be willing to share your power commander profile. I have the same setup as you on my 2007 Strat but have not brought it into get a dyna tune done. Kinda broke as I've been looking for work for over a year.

Anywho if you are still out there and would be willing to share your power commander file let me know
Thanx
Happy New Year
DOC

PS
Could anyone on here confirm whether or not the catylytic converter for the start is in the muffler??
 
#5 ·
I will not question the amount of noise made by removing the O2 sensor but the O2 sensor is the item on your bike that will optimize your mileage. When the O2 sensors were first installed in the automobiles about 1980 or so, many cars mileage increase dramatically.
The O2 sensor continually adjusts the air/fuel mixture to the best ratio for both economy and pollution.
So, as for getting a free ride and making lots of noise by removing the sensor, I am sure you will pay for the noise with more gas usage and produce increased pollution as well.
Jim
 
#6 ·
I don't think that 40 miles to the gallon is a loss. When you leave the 02 sensor in use, you defeat the reason for the PClll. Your supposed to adjust the PClll for the best performance and that's done on a dyno. That's the reason you get one in the first place. The 02 sensor is used to control the burn of the excess gas in the ( catalytic converter ) muffler. Due to the poor fuel regulation. Why do you think there is all those so called back fires in the stock bike. Its because of an extreme over rich condition when you let off the throttle and close off the air horns. It's called raw gas in the very hot catalytic converter.
Willie
 
#7 ·
O2 sensor's mission



Sorry Willie but you are incorrect on this one. I'm a licensed A&P mechanic (all aircraft & aircraft engines) and the purpose of the O2 sensor is NOT to burn off any excess gas in the catalytic converter but to make the engine run as fuel/air ration efficiently (in case of the Stratoliner it means VERY LEAN mixture) as possible.

The Strat is INFAMOUS for the horrid backfires which sound almost like gunshots to some folks, depending on the pipes used. I tried the HARD KROME 3" pipes and when that sucker back-fired...a woman in the car next to me yelled to me "OMG someone is shooting!" and then quickly sped off.

I tried to control the backfiring through PCIII/USB, and spent more then 30+ hours on the dyno adjusting the mixture for every 25RPM(!!!) to be as accurate as possible, only to get one of these two results:

1) Fuel/Air mixture rich enough to run smooth, but kill MPG bad and it would STILL ocassionally after-fire (that's right backfire is through the carburator/intake, afterfire is through the exhaust). Popping in the exhaust is NOT backfiring but it's a common misconception to call it that.

2) Fuel/Air mixure too lean and the engine after-fires like there is no tommorow.

You just can't win with that damn thing. I love my Strat, but the super loud whine in the 3rd gear, the HUGE lash in the drivetrain, and the pain in the a$$ with exhaust popping is really turning me off. I won't even start on that JOKE of a 4.5 gallon fuel tank, the handlebars which sit waaaay to far fwd, and Yammy's Highway Passing Lamps which downright suck (replaced 5 bulbs in 1 year!), oh and that dog gone idiotic glare from the stupid speedo, WHOEVER DESIGNED THAT ONE SHOULD GET SLAPPED!

Other then that it is great :)
 
#8 ·
usmcstrat:I appreciate your sharing the expertise on the stratoliner tuning/fuel issues.Retired usn aviation type here also.Got my strato 6 weeks ago.May help here with couple issues..Owners manual tells how to set all instrument panel lights to a dimmer setting.With mine on dimmest,practically no glare and can still read everything.
Second,Barons makes an excellent quality set of risers to bring bars up and back,around $240.00ish.Don't waste money on Flanders handlebars,the totally suck. Other stuff,can't help. I have lots of hearing loss from wrenching/qar H-46,test cell on carrier,P-3's,old T-28's and C-117D's,noise don't bother me much,Lol..backfiring did,but finally said to hell with it..semper fi..Randy
 
#9 ·
Well USMC Strat, when you quote someone you should read all the printing. When did the aircraft world start using O2 sensors? And no I am not wrong and if you read the instruction that came with the PCIII they state disconnect the O2 sensor. It is used to regulate the air fuel mixture in the CAT for a clean burn out the exhaust not the engine. It is an after effect controller for the motor just to meet the EXHAUST emission only. And yes the popping in the exhaust is not a back fire it is what it is. If you leave the O2 hooked up you will defeat the purpose of the PCIII and never get a good engine mix. It will still try to regulate the air /fuel mix in the motor to satisfy the exhaust. I'm a retired Automotive engineer big deal. I have never had HORRED backfires that sound like gunfire and I don't think the bike is infamous for horrid backfires. I don't know what your doing to get it to back fire like that, but it isn't correct. I get 40+ plus MPH at 75 MPH with 2 on board with full luggage. You didn't say what type of HP you ended up with or the Ft. LBS of torque found on the dyno. I spent 4 hours on the DYNO. I have very, very few backfires.
I have zero wine in third gear ( sounds like a dealer issue) and yes there is quite a bit of lash in the drive train. With all your complaints how can you say you love your Strat? :D I am pushing 30,000 miles on my bike. It's an 06 and I have yet to change a bulb on the bike. I have no engine issues. I love my bike. Maybe you need to put a aircraft engine in your bike. Like an old radial.:D The 4.5 gallon fuel tank sometimes is too small. 140 Miles is just right for a rest stop when we travel. The speedo glare does suck.

Willie
 
#12 ·
This may be a bit late in the game, but I have to comment on the notion of the O2 sensor being for control of the catalytic converters. Catalytic converters are passive devices, responding to the amount of unburned fuel by catalyzing it with oxygen (hence, burning it). They are not a mechanical device - they are coated metal that causes a reaction when they come in contact with fuel. Air is pumped into the exhaust at a rate that varies with engine vacuum and rpms to provide the oxygen necessary for the second burn. So to make the statement that the O2 sensor controls the catalytic converter is simply untrue.The purpose of the O2 sensor is to monitor the oxygen content of the exhaust and adjust the fuel ratio accordingly to get the best rate of burn. The more O2 that's present, the leaner the mixture ( not enough gas to consume all the available oxygen during combustion). HOWEVER - the mixture will only be adjusted by the amount the ECU tells the fuel injectors to based upon input from the O2 sensor. Without the O2 sensor, one could program a set map into a Power Commander, but that would negate all the benefits of combustion monitoring that's designed to compensate for changes in temperature (in conjunction with the air temp sensor above the headlight assembly), or air pressure (sensor on each cylinder), etc. The map that is programmed into the ECU basically says at a given signal from the O2 sensor, at a given throttle setting and rate of increase ( hard snap, or steady cruise) then send this much fuel to the cylinders. Changing the "map" changes the ECU response to these variables.So, the bottom line is the catalytic converters are going to burn unburned fuel on their own - O2 sensor present or not. It's merely a function of the mixed-metal oxide coating on the honeycomb metal. The ECU will use input from the O2 sensor to make adjustments in the mixture, based upon the programmed map.To further support this, note that the PC V is available with an Auto-tune, which consists of a wide range O2 sensor, for continuous optimum tuning of the fuel mixture, based upon your map.(or the stock, base map for your setup).Finally, the popping that we hear in the pipe is a result of an overly lean idle mixture, not overly rich. The idle circuit uses a closed O2 loop ( so the sensor does not provide mixture correcting feedback), and the idle mixture is set too low from the factory to help reduce emissions. The pop is unburned fuel that accumulates and ignites in the muffler. This occurs when you roll off the throttle and it returns to idle position momentarily and the draw from the engine is not matched bynthe amount of fuel being sent to the cylinders. So the unburned fuel passes through and collects ( short term) in the muffler. To correct this, use the LinerWiki mod and richer the mixture. I had to do this when I drilled out my cat and drilled out the rear baffle, and the resulting increased flow leaned the mixture (in conjunction with a K&N filter). Hope this helps clear things up for anyone who stumbles across this thread. Not looking to start any arguments or cause any hard feelings - just trying to be sure folks know the truth.
 
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