95 intruder fork oil change.
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  1. #1
    Newbie
    My Bike(s)
    95 suzuki intruder 800
    Posts
    2

    95 intruder fork oil change.

    Hello I am brand new here and i have a fairly simple, I hope, question for you all. Last fall I got a 1995 Intruder 800 from auction who had been garaged almost her whole life (only 2,400 miles) Now Upon getting her I made sure to do all of the basic maintenance items, plugs, new ethanol resistant fuel line (since its getting harder and harder to find non-ox reliably, especially on a trip), oil, gear lube, coolant. and aside from needing some carb work, runs beautifully. but the one thing i haven't tackled yet is the forks. they currently feel fine but lets face it. the oil is most likely factory and I have very little faith its actually any good after 27 years.

    Now the manuels all call for Suzuki #10 which is, according to my research, roughly a 10 weight SAE fork oil. When looking up the same info to help work on my dads 95 harley fatboy, to do at the same time, it also calls for a 10w but all the forums tend to say that 15w gives a much better less mushy ride on that bike which makes sense since it weighs a ton.

    So my question is would that be a reasonable thing to do with my intruder as well or would that really mess up the ride quality for how Suzuki have it set up? keep in mind I am a heavy guy myself to the point i already use the dual rider pressures in my tires.

    As a secondary question, anyone know of any simple tricks to easily change the fluid aside from full removal from bike as the service manual says by chance?

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  3. #2
    M-J Lifetime Achievement Award
    My Bike(s)
    Yamaha MT09
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    Perth WA
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    I would tend to agree with a heavier oil as it will flow through the valving slower thus making the forks a little stiffer. I assume there is no drain bolt at the bottom of the forks so removal will almost have to be the only way to remove the old oil. Make sure to collect it in a measuring cup....so the same amount can be used.

    If that is the only way I would be investigating stiffer springs....esp progressive ones...they will give the best of both worlds....softer bump absorbsion with heavier resistance as they compress.

    good luck
    Smoke me a kipper I'll be home in time for breakfast

  4. #3
    Newbie
    My Bike(s)
    95 suzuki intruder 800
    Posts
    2
    Thanks for the advice! Probably won't touch the springs for now as cash is a little tight but will probably go with the 15w oil. Also love the Red Dwarf reference in your signature line!

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  6. #4
    M-J Lifetime Achievement Award
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    What a guy! hahahaha...
    Smoke me a kipper I'll be home in time for breakfast

  7. #5
    Seat Tester
    My Bike(s)
    2002 VS800
    Location
    Arizona Territory
    Posts
    98
    Have been thinking about the lack of fork oil drain plugs on these Intruders lately. Does the factory feel there's some advantage to not providing them ? Sure seems like a LOT of unnecessary work to have to pull the front end just to change the fork fluid. If one wanted to, wouldn't it be possible to drill & tap our own drain plugs somewhere near the bottom of the fork legs ?
    Riding Ain't A Hobby, It's A Lifestyle

  8. #6
    Seat Tester
    Posts
    64
    its so easy just get a small metal tube & a rubber tube & just use a large syringe 30 0r 50 ML

  9. #7
    Seat Tester
    My Bike(s)
    2002 VS800
    Location
    Arizona Territory
    Posts
    98
    Quote Originally Posted by mrsuzukitech View Post
    its so easy just get a small metal tube & a rubber tube & just use a large syringe 30 0r 50 ML
    O.K. please bear with me here as I'm trying to follow this. Just skimmed thru the OEM Service Manual, Haynes & Clymers manuals and some of the info is as clear as mud......LOL!

    Please correct me wherever I've got anything wrong. If I remove the fork cap bolt and the spring, is the fork oil level supposed to be roughly 5" - 6" BELOW the top of the inner fork tube ? The Clymer's is saying 413 ml of fork oil per leg (not 30 or 50 ml). And doesn't the fork oil go all the way to the bottom of the outer fork leg ? or do I have this wrong ? Are you saying to leave the forks in the triple trees and suction out the old fork oil and just pour in the right amount of new fork oil ? Unless I'm missing something (which is definitely possible) if I'm picturing this right, that would take a lengthy suction tube.
    Riding Ain't A Hobby, It's A Lifestyle

  10. #8
    M-J Lifetime Achievement Award
    My Bike(s)
    Yamaha MT09
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    I think he means using a syringe and a long tube...long enough to reach the bottom would be my guess. The 50ml would be about the largest syringe you can get and would need several attempts to get all the oil out. I would be a bit concerned that not all the oil is removed and then to add the correct amount would put undue stress on the fork seals....imo.

    They dont fit drain bolts as a cost saving. If you collect all the oil in a measuring container I suppose you would know how much came out...thats assumimng the correct amount was in there in the first place
    Smoke me a kipper I'll be home in time for breakfast

  11. #9
    Seat Tester
    My Bike(s)
    2002 VS800
    Location
    Arizona Territory
    Posts
    98
    a-ha.....thanx for the clarification, Steve, and thanx to you also, mrsuzukitech, for your helpful input. Actually have a few of those larger syringes, they're sold as flavor injectors for cooking, but work great for adding distilled water to wet cell battery cells. Considering the limited options for changing the fork oil fluid, guess a hand pump (have one that I use for adding gear oil to auto rear differentials) with a good length of hose would work somewhat as well. Still seems like we should be able to drill & tap our own drain bolts and I'm gonna keep the thought on the back burner since I can hardly keep up with all of the wrenching that needs doing as it is..........LOL!

    Definitely hear ya about the cost cutting corners by the factory. On this VS800 with dual carbs, the choke fitting for the front carb is made of brass, more than likely to avoid the chance of melting since that carb sits right above the motor. The rear carb uses a plastic choke fitting, which we see on many other bikes. Kinda bugs me that the factory doesn't spend the extra nickel to make 'em all out of brass. Plastic threads going into metal threads doesn't sound very practical and when I pulled the carbs for cleaning recently, the plastic choke fitting on the rear carb broke upon re-installation, which stalled the project until the new fitting arrived. Ah, the wonders of "planned obsolescence".......hahaha......
    Last edited by Sinical; 10-09-2018 at 03:15 AM. Reason: speeling error, LOL!
    Riding Ain't A Hobby, It's A Lifestyle

  12. #10
    Seat Tester
    Posts
    64
    measure the total length of the fork top to bottom than use a metal small tube about 15 inches long & put the rubber tube to one end of the metal tube the tube should go close to the bottom mark the rubber tube at the top note make sure the tube & rubber fits tight . than measure the total old oil & add new oil the same in the fork

  13. #11
    Seat Tester
    My Bike(s)
    2002 VS800
    Location
    Arizona Territory
    Posts
    98
    Thanx again. I agree that the metal/rubber tube connection needs to be tight to avoid it coming apart and having it fall down inside the fork tube. Removing as much of the old as possible, measuring that amount and then only adding that same amount of new makes sense. Gotta say, that without a drain bolt, I'd rather do it your way rather than pull the entire front end.
    Riding Ain't A Hobby, It's A Lifestyle


 

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