97 Intruder VS800 not starting
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  1. #1
    Newbie
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    97 Intruder VS800 not starting

    Hi everyone, I have a 1997 Suzuki intruder. The battery was bad so I changed the battery for a new one but the bike still clicks but doesn't crank. I bypassed the battery and hooked it up to my car battery with jumper cables to see if it was a bad battery but still doesn't crank just turns over.

    Last time I rode it was 2 weeks ago and it worked fine. Now it won't start. I checked all the fuses and they're still intact.

    Any ideas on what the problem could be and potential fixes?

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  3. #2
    Super Moderator

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    Quote Originally Posted by vietsatillite View Post
    but still doesn't crank just turns over.

    Any ideas on what the problem could be and potential fixes?
    Did you charge the new battery before installing ? Should have.

    And "cranking" is turning over.
    Sounds like what you have is " turning over but not firing".
    Don't believe everything that you think.

  4. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Easy Rider View Post
    Did you charge the new battery before installing ? Should have.

    And "cranking" is turning over.
    Sounds like what you have is " turning over but not firing".
    Yeah the store I bought it from charged the battery and I placed it on a battery tender to charge it after the store.

    I hooked up the positive and negative cables on my bike to my car battery via jumper cables and it still doesn't start. It just turns but won't fire.

    Thank you for the correction. I didn't know the difference.

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  6. #4
    M-J Lifetime Achievement Award
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    Check the caps/cables/coils fo tightness...also pull the plugs to see if you are getting any spark at all.

    A visual check of fuses isnt always good enough....pull them and check up to the light. There was a post on a forum...cant remember which... about a fuse that had a fine break that was almost invisible to the eye. Check all relays... if they are the clear type any burning of the contacts indicates a fault.

    Ignition circuit would be next if there is no power to the coil/s

    Good luck
    Smoke me a kipper I'll be home in time for breakfast

  7. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by vietsatillite View Post
    I hooked up the positive and negative cables on my bike to my car battery via jumper cables and it still doesn't start. It just turns but won't fire.
    .
    IF.....it won't turn over with just the onboard healthy battery, then you have an electrical problem.
    Maybe a partially shorted starter.
    Or maybe a partially seized engine.
    Or maybe some liquid gas getting down into the cylinders.

    Until you get over that hump so that it spins the engine good just with it's own battery, there isn't much point in messing with other stuff.
    Don't believe everything that you think.

  8. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aussie Steve View Post
    Check the caps/cables/coils fo tightness...also pull the plugs to see if you are getting any spark at all.

    A visual check of fuses isnt always good enough....pull them and check up to the light. There was a post on a forum...cant remember which... about a fuse that had a fine break that was almost invisible to the eye. Check all relays... if they are the clear type any burning of the contacts indicates a fault.

    Ignition circuit would be next if there is no power to the coil/s

    Good luck
    I hooked the bike up to my car battery. All the lights came on and the vehicle turned over but didn't catch. I don't believe its electrical anymore if its able to turn over.

  9. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Easy Rider View Post
    IF.....it won't turn over with just the onboard healthy battery, then you have an electrical problem.
    Maybe a partially shorted starter.
    Or maybe a partially seized engine.
    Or maybe some liquid gas getting down into the cylinders.

    Until you get over that hump so that it spins the engine good just with it's own battery, there isn't much point in messing with other stuff.

    Do you have any methods a newbie can check this?

  10. #8
    Super Moderator

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    Quote Originally Posted by vietsatillite View Post
    Do you have any methods a newbie can check this?
    I can't hold your hand through the whole procedure but can make a couple of suggestions:

    Take the plugs out and try to turn it over with the onboard battery.
    If the onboard battery won't turn it with the plugs out, then you definitely have an electrical/starter problem.
    Or the engine is dragging.
    It does have oil in it.......right ??

    Buy a multi-meter; around $20 at WalMart and $10 at Harbor Freight.
    That should help determine if the battery is really good or not.

    Take a "basic mechanics" course at a nearby community college.
    Sometimes they even let students bring in things to work on.
    Don't believe everything that you think.

  11. #9
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    I keep seeing the same posts about the intruders. I'm not a mechanic but I too have an intruder that on occasion fails to start. From my experience as long as everything else checks out its a compression Issue where the Pistons have stopped in the same position. Simple put the bike in gear, engage the clutch and roll backwards a couple of feet to reposition the pistons. This has worked for me every time. Good luck

  12. #10
    Seat Tester
    Posts
    64
    HI I had the same problem pull one plug out if no spark & cranks only flip the ing swith off & on & 0r the start stop switch off & on if it fires up need to clean the ing switch take it apart & clean the contacts thank you for asking

  13. #11
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    There are 2 things, the first is that a completely charged battery and the next is a charging platform which keeps it like that. The question being how can you know which section of the machine is at fault whenever there's an issue?


    Here is an example -- if your battery does not appear to hold a fee between rides it may be since the battery is on its last legs, or it can be since the charging system is not performing as well as it ought to.


    To answer you'll need two items: a completely charged battery (no charging platform could be reliably analyzed while the battery is discharged) along with a voltmeter or committed battery tester, such as the TecMate TestMate miniature, which will be capable of studying at 15 volts DC.


    Many charging system issues are cured after assessing the battery connections.


    Set your voltmeter to the DC scale, even if it's a calibration modification set it to browse over 12 volts and join the clamps or probes. If you have never used a voltmeter before, here is how it works. The meter's red or positive clamp or stunt attaches to the battery terminal then the black or negative probe connects to the battery earth. A wholesome battery should read directly around 12.5 volts. When it's considerably lower than this, state 12.0 or not, charge the battery before moving.


    Assuming that the battery voltage is great, start the bike and observe the tube. Based on the type and efficacy of your charging system, the meter might reveal only a rather modest increase or even a decrease in voltage at idle; nonetheless, as you raise the motor speed you need to notice an increase in voltage. At any rate above a quick idle, the voltage reading ought to rise over the standing voltage before leveling off. If they are substantially higher or lower you will want to take corrective actions. For that you will want the bicycle's service manual along with some comprehension of the charging system creates and regulates the present, which is beyond the scope of this short introduction.


    On this note, here is some last information, if the charging system is not functioning properly do not ride the bicycle until it's. I know that seems obvious, but I am constantly surprised by the number of men will try out nursing a bicycle and also when the charging system is marginal at best. A dead battery generates all kinds of unpleasant situations and if a few of them happens in rush hour on a busy stretch of road you are going to be in for an enjoyable encounter pushing your bike through visitors, accompanied by a very long wait for assistance.


    The reverse side is that an overcharging battery is equally as bad, maybe worse, as under the ideal circumstances that the battery could explode under you. Ironically that is a very rare occurrence and also the more likely consequence is that it is going to blow your lights out as a result of high voltage, however that is only marginally improved. The most important thing is that having the ability to ascertain where the problem is situated, will just be half of the battle, but it's a half you're able to fight and win on your own garage. If still, you are not able to make it up then you can use this guide.

  14. #12
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    I really appreciate your participation here and the above post is good.

    BUT.....some of it is a little hard to understand.

    I suspect this is because of a "translation" problem.

    Is English not your first language ??
    Don't believe everything that you think.

  15. #13
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    Yes, English is not my first language.

    I am from Nigeria.

  16. #14
    Seat Tester
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    I'm new here, too, but wanted to say "Welcome Aboard". Same as Easy Rider, I also enjoy your posts. And no worries, your English is better than some Americans we know....haha.

    It's late here and been a long day. Need to get some rest and back to the grind tomorrow. Ride Safe........
    Riding Ain't A Hobby, It's A Lifestyle


 

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