Suzuki S40 starting problem - Page 3
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  1. #31
    Newbie
    My Bike(s)
    2008 Suzuki Boulevard C90T
    Location
    North Carolina
    Posts
    23
    Time to call on the pros. I give up. Thanks all.

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  3. #32
    Seat Tester
    My Bike(s)
    2002 VS800
    Location
    Arizona Territory
    Posts
    98
    There's no shame in farming it out. I'm about to do the same with a project that's been beating me up, more than tired of beating my head against the wall. To your credit, you've given it your best shot in spite of the ever present frustration. While thinking about your situation and trying to figure it out in my head, the solution continues to stay hidden from us. Something's not cooperating, but what is it ???

    Not gonna try to talk you out of your decision because I know this has been frustrating beyond words. Only out of curiosity and nothing more, did you try turning out the air/fuel mixture screw more than the 1 1/2 turns that you mentioned earlier ? If that didn't do it, I'm out of ideas as well. One way or another, it'll get done and you can move forward again from that point on.
    Riding Ain't A Hobby, It's A Lifestyle

  4. #33
    Newbie
    My Bike(s)
    2008 Suzuki Boulevard C90T
    Location
    North Carolina
    Posts
    23
    Yeah, I've tried multiple screw setting. About to wear the starter out. The really frustrating thing is, I got it to idle nicely yesterday. Can't even get it to start today. Got friends at the Suzuki dealer down the road. They've fixed bugaboos for me before. One of these days I will post pics of the project. Thanks.

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  6. #34
    Newbie
    My Bike(s)
    2008 Suzuki Boulevard C90T
    Location
    North Carolina
    Posts
    23
    Think I'll just go for a ride on my C90 for attitude adjustment.

  7. #35
    Seat Tester
    My Bike(s)
    2002 VS800
    Location
    Arizona Territory
    Posts
    98
    Sounds like a plan. The best course of action when a mechanical issue hits the wall is to put down the wrench and simply walk away. Patience never having been one of my strong points, it took me quite awhile to figure this out. LOL!

    And as you well know, getting in the wind does wonders for clearing the head. ENJOY the day and Ride Safe............
    Riding Ain't A Hobby, It's A Lifestyle

  8. #36
    Seat Tester
    My Bike(s)
    2001 Kawasaki ZG1200 Voyager XII, 1971 Honda CB100
    Location
    Clovis NM USA
    Posts
    97
    Pulling out choke to first notch got the bike running without problem, but it won't run once warmed with choke disengaged. Sounds like it may be related to your rejet job, sounds like it needs to be set richer. Yes, a pro mechanic familiar with rejetting bikes with modified exhausts would be someone to help.

    Sorry, can't be of much help as I've never rejetted a bike. I left my 1987 Savage with stock exhaust and with the sea level jets ran fine at the higher elevations, even 8,000 feet. It had enough torque to pull stumps, a really fun bike on the rural back roads. Some years back, showed up at a rally in Chama, NM 8 hours and 400 miles away, got comments about being a "real" biker and how I could "ride such a tiny thing".
    Then I'd remind them that a 650 was a big bike in the 1960's and 1970's.

    Hope you get it all sorted out, you'll enjoy "living the legend" on your S40, a real fun, no nonsense bike.

    Oh, and BTW, I installed a Drag Specialties electronic mini-tach for a 2 cylinder Harley-Davidson on my Savage. It worked perfectly. The LS650's are double fire ignition (fires every crankshaft revolution), why it worked. This is the accessory that Suzuki left off. I found it very helpful to select my shift points, and watch my rpm's on the open highway. Also, it served as my speedometer when its cable broke, until I could repair it. My wide ratio 4 speed transmission gave me 5,200 rpm at 75 mph, only 1,300 rpm less than redline at 6,500. Your S40 with 5 speed is about 300 rpm lower than mine.

    Another caveat to the 650 single is that when the weather is very hot, you'll use more oil. This is not oil burning, just the nature as this air cooled runs hotter than the water cooled's. I'd be adding about a 1/4 quart every other fill up when temps were above 95 deg F. At cooler temps below 75 I would be hardly adding anything. Some have ruined their valve train by not maintaining proper oil level on rides. (Heard the same about the Kawasaki KLR650, which interestingly is a water cooled.) Anyway, FYI.
    Last edited by High Plains Thumper; 12-25-2018 at 06:29 PM.

  9. #37
    Newbie
    My Bike(s)
    2008 Suzuki Boulevard C90T
    Location
    North Carolina
    Posts
    23
    My friends at the shop set me straight. Turns out I did not have the required washer on the main jet and I had the spacers on the wrong side of the jet needle c clip. Oh, dopey me! Anyway, they are in the process of setting me up right with a proper jet kit including tapered jet needle. The S40 comes from the factory some what neutered, running very lean. I already knew that, but did not appreciate that more was needed than just a jet swap. So, I'll be able to post pics soon, but we're supposed to get more snow so may be a while. Thanks for all the input. Now, if you see another in my predicament, here's some items to point out.

  10. #38
    Seat Tester
    My Bike(s)
    2002 VS800
    Location
    Arizona Territory
    Posts
    98
    That's GREAT news! Your buds did right by you. The causes they found explain why we were scratching our heads in not being able to find the solution. Congrats!

    Not disputing your buds suggestion to re-jet, etc........just find it interesting that the re-jet is necessary when just changing the exhaust and keeping the stock air box. Oh well, live 'n learn. It's all good.
    Riding Ain't A Hobby, It's A Lifestyle

  11. #39
    Seat Tester
    My Bike(s)
    2001 Kawasaki ZG1200 Voyager XII, 1971 Honda CB100
    Location
    Clovis NM USA
    Posts
    97
    Quote Originally Posted by Sinical View Post
    Not disputing your buds suggestion to re-jet, etc........just find it interesting that the re-jet is necessary when just changing the exhaust and keeping the stock air box. Oh well, live 'n learn. It's all good.
    Re-jetting is necessary when changing exhausts, when there is a change in back pressure. A reduction will require en-richening the fuel mixture, because reduced back pressure will cause the bike to run lean. To meet emission standards, the bike is already lean tuned. Putting a less restrictive, freer flowing muffler without carburettor adjustments will cause the bike to run further lean, not good.

  12. #40
    Seat Tester
    My Bike(s)
    2002 VS800
    Location
    Arizona Territory
    Posts
    98
    Agreed on the need for the proper back pressure. Phil mentioned that he eliminated the muffler by using a slip-on. Depending on the shape of the slip-on, his back pressure was either retained or compromised, sometimes even lost entirely. I've had good results in maintaining back pressure when using EMGO Shorty style slip-ons, even when removing the baffles they come with. No re-jet required in 3 different machines. Running straight-thru SE1's slip-ons on the Harley and did have to enrichen the mixture via adjusting the air/fuel mixture screw, but no re-jet.
    Riding Ain't A Hobby, It's A Lifestyle

  13. #41
    Newbie
    My Bike(s)
    2008 Suzuki Boulevard C90T
    Location
    North Carolina
    Posts
    23
    I actually got to ride it last Friday. Handles and runs so much nicer. The bad part is it is now blowing the fuse when the starter button is pushed. The shop is in the process of trouble shooting that. Hope I didn't wear out the starter. Doesn't blow the fuse every time. Fortunately, I was across the street from the shop when it did.

  14. #42
    Seat Tester
    My Bike(s)
    2002 VS800
    Location
    Arizona Territory
    Posts
    98
    Might just be a short/bad ground somewhere between starter button, starter relay and starter. Sure hope it turns out to be an easy fix.
    Riding Ain't A Hobby, It's A Lifestyle

  15. #43
    Super Moderator

    My Bike(s)
    Can-AM Spyder
    Location
    Ocala, FL
    Posts
    12,051
    What fuse exactly ?
    The fat wires that actually feed the starter usually are not fused.
    The small one going to the solenoid might be though......along with any associated relays.
    Don't believe everything that you think.

  16. #44
    Newbie
    My Bike(s)
    2008 Suzuki Boulevard C90T
    Location
    North Carolina
    Posts
    23
    Turns out it was a wire to the compression release that was getting pinched when the starter is engaged causing a ground out. All good now. Now to slap a windshield on it and get the tag renewed. On the road again.

  17. #45
    Super Moderator

    My Bike(s)
    Can-AM Spyder
    Location
    Ocala, FL
    Posts
    12,051
    YEA!!!
    Don't believe everything that you think.


 
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