'93 Intruder 800: Blown fuse/Circuit breaker/won't start
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  1. #1

    '93 Intruder 800: Blown fuse/Circuit breaker/won't start

    Hi folks,

    So I go to crank up my '93 800 after 4ish months sitting on a trickle charger. The first thing I notice is that it looks TERRIBLE–everything that could rust has, including the front disc, and I'm thinking it's because I rode during much of the winter and didn't think about road salt before putting it away. :bang:

    OK, so I turn the key and nothing happens–no click, no headlight, literally nothing. OK, I can tell the terminals are fairly rusty, so I jiggle them a bit and am able to get the headlight on. So I spend a few minutes cranking, hoping for that sweet sound, but it won't turn over. The sound gets fainter, and suddenly turns into a click. OK, so I'm thinking that my fully charged battery was able to overcome the resistance from the rust, but only to a certain point–I've certainly cranked the bike for longer before and it didn't stop cranking, so I give up and commit to pulling the battery, recharging, and cleaning the terminals and restarting.

    I do all of that, but rather than reinstalling the battery, I use a couple of connectors from one of the trickle chargers so that I can connect the battery to the bike's wires without having to reinstall it–I figure it might take more than one good charge on the battery and don't want to install and deinstall. I turn the key and I'm back to nothing–no headlights, no click, nothing at all. So I figure my jury-rigging of additional wires is probably the problem and I reinstall the battery. When doing so, I get sparks on the positive terminal, a bit worse than usual–bad enough that the sparks actually dig little holes in the battery post! Yikes. (Yes, I know I should connect the positive FIRST, but if you know the 800 you know how much of a pain the batteries are to install, and on mine it's almost impossible to install positive first.)

    OK, so now the battery is installed and....nothing. No lights, no click, nothing. I figure it must be a fuse now because I arced it–I check the fuse box (first time fiddling in there!) and find the main, 25-amp fuse blown. Great! I install the replacement which is not blown. I haven't put everything back together yet–the one thing I made sure to do was reinstall what look like positive and negative screws on the fuse panel (I'm guessing you need those installed for it all to work). Nothing, no lights, etc. So that's where I'm at and looking for help. My current leads are these:

    1) My Clymer (page 311) says there should be a circuit breaker with a red button, which is actually what I thought I'd need to push to restore power–but I'm not finding it anywhere! Is there a chance the '93 doesn't have one? I looked behind the fuse box and there was just a flat black panel.

    2) Check out the wiring going into the fuse box, as well as one of the metal prongs the wiring attaches to–not sure if I did this just now, but see how one wire is complete unattached? And the corresponding prong is a bit more whitish/corroded looking. I've tried pushing the wire back in and it won't really stay. Is that greenish gunk some kind of adhesive? should I just get some and try to push that wire back in with the adhesive? I think it's safe to assume that I should get that wire fixed before moving on!

    3) Do I need to reinstall everything and try again in case somehow any of that matters?

    My plan is to (a) confirm that there's no circuit breaker to untrip, (b) fix that loose wire somehow, (c) reinstall everything and try again, (d) pull the battery and have it load tested in case it's the culprit (though it shouldn't be), (e) start investigating other elements of the electrical system, since if my arc (or something else) blew the main fuse, it seems possible it took other components with it in the process. Sound right?

    Ugh.......I can't post a link to the pictures without creating more posts...that's annoying. Well, if you go to imgur.com and add /a/ksTvHXF you should find pics that I think would be useful to anyone who wants to help me. Thanks again!

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  3. #2
    Super Moderator

    My Bike(s)
    Can-AM Spyder
    Ocala, FL
    Quote Originally Posted by panamaniac View Post
    (d) pull the battery and have it load tested in case it's the culprit (though it shouldn't be),
    Yes. Don't overlook that important step.
    It wouldn't be the first battery that has failed while on a tender.......nor the last.

    Typically, there is one "component" that doesn't have a fuse and that it the regulator.
    If you have a large current draw with the ignition OFF and no blown fuses, you need to suspect the regulator or one of the main battery feed wires (including the ones going to the regulator) might be shorted to the frame.
    Don't believe everything that you think.

  4. #3
    M-J Lifetime Achievement Award
    My Bike(s)
    Yamaha MT09
    Perth WA
    Since the bike was left with road grime etc I would also check the safety switches....clutch, side stand, and also check the kill switch. A squirt of WD40 in there may clean out any buld up of corrosion enough to get the motor runnng...it also will give a quick indication if this or any other bar switch is faulty/corroded.

    Good luck
    Smoke me a kipper I'll be home in time for breakfast

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  6. #4
    Super Moderator

    My Bike(s)
    Can-AM Spyder
    Ocala, FL
    Quote Originally Posted by Aussie Steve View Post
    A squirt of WD40 in there may clean out any buld up of corrosion enough to get the motor runnng..
    And THEN you need to clean the WD40 out......because it is not good for electrical connections, long term.
    Don't believe everything that you think.

  7. #5
    My Bike(s)
    1992 Intruder 1400
    Also check the fuel pump relay. I have a'92 1400 I bought not running (silly me), and with everything else I've done, I found it was intermittent. It would start, putt-putt, and die.


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