03 v star 1100 classic charging issue. - Page 3
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  1. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by 031100 View Post
    Another issue is that battery at rest is supposed to read 12.5 and 12.8v. Mine is reading 13.6volts. It's sitting on the work bench, so no outside source to effect reading. Seems a bit high. I could read it as charging when it's not.
    Yes that's a pretty big issue.
    Be sure your meter is set on DC and then measure another battery.

    Unless it is connected to a charger at the time, it should never read over 13.0.
    That is assuming that it is a "standard" type of battery and not something exotic like Lithium.
    Don't believe everything that you think.

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  3. #32
    Seat Tester
    My Bike(s)
    2002 VS800
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    Have you been keeping the battery on a tender ? If so, the tender will get it charged to around 13.5V - 13.7V and then the float charge while still on the tender could read what you've got at 13.6V. I've bought AGM batteries thru mail order and they'll read 13.6V or more right out of the box. Once they're off the bench and installed in the bike, it's common to see a voltage drop to more like 12.8V.
    Riding Ain't A Hobby, It's A Lifestyle

  4. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sinical View Post
    I've bought AGM batteries thru mail order and they'll read 13.6V or more right out of the box.
    I'm a bit skeptical of that.
    Since I've never heard ANYBODY else say that, in dozens of different "automotive" forums for the entire 30 years or so since AGMs came into wide use.
    Don't believe everything that you think.

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  6. #34
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    @SINICAL; yes I have been keeping it on a tender. For about a week or longer. I thought I'd leave it hooked up to the tender while I'm working on the bike. I've seen where guys have left a tender on a battery, although it was a Deep Cycle Marine battery, for months until they were able to get the boat back in the water. With winter coming on, I know I'll probably put the battery on the tender. Is it not good to leave a battery on a tender for that long? and yes it is a standard DURABATT PT14B-4 12v,12AH battery. I tested the battery without the tender connected, and I'm getting 13.5v.

  7. #35
    Seat Tester
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    Quote Originally Posted by Easy Rider View Post
    I'm a bit skeptical of that.
    Since I've never heard ANYBODY else say that, in dozens of different "automotive" forums for the entire 30 years or so since AGMs came into wide use.
    Not a problem here, Easy Rider, no offense taken. Some of these AGM's are "factory activated" before shipping. The last 4 batteries I've bought have been Motobatt batteries:

    MotoBatt Motorcycle Batteries | ATV | Scooter | Snowmobile | UTV

    All 4 have arrived with a charge of 13.6V (or more) directly out of the box. Guess the only way I can prove that is to respectfully suggest that you try a Motobatt next time and order it directly from the factory.
    Riding Ain't A Hobby, It's A Lifestyle

  8. #36
    Seat Tester
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    Quote Originally Posted by 031100 View Post
    @SINICAL; yes I have been keeping it on a tender. For about a week or longer. I thought I'd leave it hooked up to the tender while I'm working on the bike. I've seen where guys have left a tender on a battery, although it was a Deep Cycle Marine battery, for months until they were able to get the boat back in the water. With winter coming on, I know I'll probably put the battery on the tender. Is it not good to leave a battery on a tender for that long? and yes it is a standard DURABATT PT14B-4 12v,12AH battery. I tested the battery without the tender connected, and I'm getting 13.5v.
    All sounds good here. The float charge on your tender must be set for 13.5V. If left on the tender, if the charge drops below that, the tender will kick on and bring it back up to 13.5V. If you were to disconnect the tender and leave the battery on the bench or install it in the bike (also without being on a tender) you'd see the charge gradually drop over time. Leaving the battery on the tender while not in use would actually be recommended. For an AGM battery, it'd just be leave it on the tender until the battery was going to be put into use. For a traditional wet cell battery, it wouldn't be a bad idea to check the fluid levels in the cells from time to time.
    Riding Ain't A Hobby, It's A Lifestyle

  9. #37
    Ditch Magnet
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    2002 SV-650N, 2007Yamaha 1100 custom
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    NW Pa.
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    My battery lasted 10 years, never on a tender. I would start the bike once a month which you should not do. The last year it ran down half way thru winter so it was time to replace it. Now i would put the tender on it once a month just to maintain.

  10. #38
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    @ SINICAL; I disconnected the battery and let it sit overnight, then tested again. It's dropped to12.7. Reference to wet cell; this battery is a maintenance free (sealed) battery. So is this a dart throw to how long I can leave it connected to a tender? I've lost the instructions paper that came with the tender, so I'm using you guys as a LIFE LINE support group. I get as good of an answer or better from people who ride or are motorcycle mechanics than trying to get a straight answer elsewhere. WOW! looking at stators, I'm getting from $75.-$450. for a replacement, and I don't think any of them are US made.

  11. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by 031100 View Post
    @ SINICAL; I disconnected the battery and let it sit overnight, then tested again. It's dropped to12.7.
    That's more normal. But you might want to let it sit for another couple of days.
    It should NOT drop any more than that.

    As for the tender, if you have the make and model number a Google search might turn up the specs. and operating instructions.
    If it is a "real" battery maintainer.....fully automatic tender type.....then it theoretically can be left connected forever.
    If it is a cheap trickle charger or manual charger then it should NOT be left connected continuously.
    Don't believe everything that you think.

  12. #40
    Ditch Magnet
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    2002 SV-650N, 2007Yamaha 1100 custom
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    the way i hear it is for stator or regulator stick with oem.some of ebay stators will only go 6 months. fyi your bike was made in japan lol.so why not buy from that part of the world.

  13. #41
    Seat Tester
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    2002 VS800
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    In complete agreement with Easy Rider & nickbehavin.............If I see 12.8V with the battery in the bike and not running, I'm happy. When I eventually see 12.6V cold in bike, I start watching it more carefully.

    Parts-wise, I used to use Bike Bandit for metric parts, but recently started using these folks:

    www.rockymountainatvmc.com

    Haven't bought from this one, but looks interesting. Stumbled on it while researching and bookmarked it for future use:

    www.regulatorrectifier.com

    Couple more:

    www.electrosport.com

    www.ricksmotorsportelectrics.com

    Parts from these last 2 show up on eBay a lot, I have no knowledge of their quality (good or bad), so as nickbehavin suggests, it's Buyer Beware or someone with experience with these sellers might chime in.
    Last edited by Sinical; 10-16-2018 at 03:36 PM. Reason: add-on
    Riding Ain't A Hobby, It's A Lifestyle

  14. #42
    Seat Tester
    Posts
    59
    dont shortcut on parts. on a trip if you do to save that $ its not worth, it will cost you more

  15. #43
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    yamaha 1100 v-star classic
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    37
    I put in a new stator, battery reads 12.6 at rest and volt meter reads 13.7 @ 1500rpm. Bike running really rough and backfiring, won't idle. Head light and dash lights flicker and dim @ low RPM. Any ideas?

  16. #44
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    What is the voltage reading when the engine is having a fit ??

    My first thought is that the stator has a "timing" winding in it......but I really doubt that is true on this model.

    Then the next thing you would suspect is the Rectifier/Regulator.

    But a loose electrical connection somewhere is also possible; main battery cables at either end.
    Don't believe everything that you think.

  17. #45
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    Battery cables on both ends secured, when the engine is " having a fit " running rough and backfiring, voltage drops to 11.6 or fluctuating up and down. After trying to start a few times, now it won't start at all. Spits, sputters and backfires.


 
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