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Discussion Starter #1
New battery kept running down, put a volt meter on battery posts. At rest battery reads 12 volts, I started the bike up and no change in volt output. I'm not seeing fluctuation up or down in output at idle or at 2000rpm. looking in the maintenance manual, it says " I should see 14.5 volts at 5000rpm " there is no way I'm running this motor to 5000rpm! Sitting on the bike "right side" the R/R is supposed to under the battery box, and the stator, looking at the leads seems to be under side cover. I think I'm going to have to drain the oil and pull the exhaust off. Is there a method of checking rectifier/regulator and stator without taking the bike apart?
 

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https://sites.google.com/site/vstar1100kb/home/repairs/charging-system with an ohm meter check the stator leads . remove the left side cover. and the plug with three white wires.the rectifier is under the right cover and you will have to remove the pipes. its all in the link and read the first section for new owners. there is a proper way of starting the bike so you don't screw up the starter clutch.
 

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You don't need to rev the bike that high to get a good test.
It should be above 12.8 even at idle......if it is working at all.

By all means, test the stator.
Sometimes the initial problem is failed connectors where the stator wires come out.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thank you both for your help. @nickbehavin, thanks for the link info read. May take a while, I'll give shout back and report findings that may help someone else.
 

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i put a new regulator in last year i had a bad diode after a long ride it would';t charge. i have a battery monitor on my handlebar and it would go from green to red.the new regulator will only charge to 13.9 volts at 2500 rpms won't break 14 but it fixed the problem.some guys will find the connector coming from the stator melted and they solder the connection. if you replace the regulator it's recommended to get one from a 2005 roadstar which is plug and play and heavier duty.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Isn't there a systems failure light that would show up on the dashboard? Inside the face of the speedometer, there is a light for "low oil" , "high beam" and a "check engine" light. I've never had the engine light come while riding it. Wouldn't regulator or stator failure count as a engine system failed? I'm doing all of this because of a new battery running down acting like it's not being recharged. I get the feeling I've been riding around thinking everything is good when I've been riding around with the bike operating on whatever charge was in the battery.
 

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Wouldn't regulator or stator failure count as a engine system failed?
NO.

After decades of equipping most all vehicles with an analog voltmeter or ammeter, the industry finally woke up and realized that 99.9 % of the owners wouldn't be able to recognize a failure anyway......and stopped wasting the money. Most motorcycles never had any warning......and still don't.

A digital voltmeter is an essential tool and can be had cheap these days.

I thought we had already agreed that your charging system was bad somehow......and that further testing is needed.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Still working on that. Checking stator and regulator, I think replacing them both would be a good idea. It's getting to them that's taking time to geterdone. In east texas at 100 to 111degs and 98% humidity I'm in no hurry.
 

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, I think replacing them both would be a good idea.
Not really.

In addition to wasting a fair amount of money and time, you might actually make matters worse.
Taking wild guesses and shot-gunning parts at a problem seldom works out like you hope it will.

You can test the stator and the associated connectors.
You can remove and clean ALL of the main cable connections.
You can check and re-seat all of the connections at the R/R, paying special attention to the grounds.

It is hard to do a good test on the R/R, however, and if everything else comes up good, then that might need to be replaced blindly.
 

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you can get a good voltmeter at lowes for $30.00. stators are easy to check just three wires and you should get roughly the same reading from all three. i've been hanging around yamaha forums for eight years and in that time there has been only one reported bad stator. lots of bad regulators
 

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put a volt meter on battery posts. At rest battery reads 12 volts, I started the bike up and no change in volt output.
you can get a good voltmeter at lowes for $30.00.
It appears that he already HAS a voltmeter.

And even the little red ones from Harbor Freight are surprisingly capable. ($10)
 

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the $10.00 volt meter i got from harbor freight broke the first time i used it i thought i would advise him to get a good one.he did mention taking a voltage reading i was just covering all bases. my 2 cents for the pot.
 

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the $10.00 volt meter i got from harbor freight broke the first time i used it i thought i would advise him to get a good one.he did mention taking a voltage reading i was just covering all bases. my 2 cents for the pot.
I have about 6 of them and they all are still going.
The only failure I've had was one that got wet and sat that way for a LONG time.

P.S. HF usually will replace anything of theirs that fails "out of the box" with no questions asked.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I thank all of you for jumping in! Following the link from Nickbehavin, I used the ohm test on the stator side of the connection and got a 49.0 between wires. Link says I should see 36. to 44. reading. On another post, it said I should check each wire to a ground and shouldn't see a numerical value with any of them. I did, I got 1.1 to .05 doing this. I think the stator is toast. Test done with motor off, key off.
 

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http://www.starbikeforums.com/forums/49-v-star/51873-stator-testing.html before spending $350.00 for a new stator check this link. one guy says if your getting 40+ volts from each of the white wires the stator is good.there are lots of posts out there about testing stators it is not an exact science. your resistance check sounds iffy what you do is check each wire to see if it goes to ground i'm thinking if its charging its doing what its supposed to do. and you see if it puts out more volts as you increase the throttle.
 

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it said I should check each wire to a ground and shouldn't see a numerical value with any of them. I did, I got 1.1 to .05 doing this. I think the stator is toast. Test done with motor off, key off.
IF the ground test was done correctly, the readings you got indicate that the stator is shorted to ground; not good.

The stator connector should be unplugged when doing the test.......like it was for the first part of the test.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I have another question, nothing to do with the stator or R/R. When I let off the throttle to slow down for curves or down shift coming to a stop, I get loud popping noise out the exhaust like the carbs are out of sync.
I just rebuilt the carbs. After taking the carbs apart, I removed all plastic, rubber and gasket materials, the chokes, air shut off valves etc... I let them soak in carb cleaner over night. I flooded them with water for awhile and used air compressor to blow them out. Removed all jets and cleaned them off making sure none of them had plugged holes. I replaced all parts mentioned except jets and put them back together. Set the air fuel screws two turns out and mounted everything back on the bike. Fired the bike up, turned air/ fuel screws in until I got a RPM drop and then backed them out 1/8 turn at a time picking up RPM until RPM did not go up anymore. I then synchronized the carbs to within half a needle width. Bike was running really good except for the deceleration noise, and now charging issues.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I unplugged the connector. With the meter set to OHMs at 200 setting I followed the link test method and that's what I got.
 

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popping is caused from lean mixture adjustment. turn the screws out a 1/4 turn or until it stops popping. kinda hard with the stock screws, pacific coast star used to sell aftermarket thumbscrews that you could adjust with the carbs on the bike but they may not sell them anymore. the only other place you can get screws is from metric magic yamaha
 
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