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Discussion Starter #21
I was a machinist, manufacturing medical device equipment. After trying to adjust the air/fuel screws the first time, I took the stock screws out and drilled out the threaded end and made thumbscrew extensions to fit on that end and used permenant grade LOCK TIGHT. The carbs are BSR37-2 type, finding these or parts for are few or not at all. Seems like Yamaha went to a different model carb. They stopped making the 1100, so parts are a salvage hunt. 1300 fuel injected was the replacement, or so it seems. I'll turn screws out 1/4 turn after I get the bike running. One end of that connection goes to the stator, does the mating side of that connection go to R/R?
 

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I'll turn screws out 1/4 turn after I get the bike running.

One end of that connection goes to the stator, does the mating side of that connection go to R/R?
Yes.

As for the carbs, there is a very narrow range of adjustment with that idle mixture screw and it is likely that just doing that will not solve your problem.

You did not answer my questions about modified intake and exhaust.......and those things are CRITICAL for this discussion.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
I Wasn't aware that you asked but I'll answer, Intake is a Kuryakyn Pro-R Hypercharger. I'm using the Cobra shorts exhaust system. Stock pilot jet, 122.5 main in the rear cylinder, stock pilot jet, 125. main in the front cylinder. BPR7ES plugs and new coils. Put in a Dynatech 3000 ignition module. I'll get back to this later, Going fly fishing. 100+ degrees and 98% humidity I'm in no hurry.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
FYI;Before I leave, the Dynatech 3000 has 8 on/off switches depending on how the bike is set up. With Hypercharger and Cobra exhaust the recommended setting is station 2 and 5 on, all the rest are turned off. Other than these two mods, the bike is stock.
 

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Other than these two mods, the bike is stock.
So....the entire intake, exhaust and engine ignition computer has been changed.
I count 3 changes.....and BIG ones at that.

I got my threads mixed up; I actually didn't ask about that in this one.

But a popping on decel kind of goes with the territory when you change intake and exhaust.

You might be able to dial it out with the ignition manager but probably NOT because it really has NO control over the fuel ratio.

I suspect you are going to have to live with it.....or start looking for richer pilot jets.
That "ignition module" probably was a waste of money.
There is only so much you can do with the spark.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
I'm back from fishing trip. I pulled the stator, looks like two of the coils are burnt. I've found a new stator, however part fitment description is " 03 XVS1100AW CAST WHEEL ". As far as I know the AW is north American designation for the v-star 1100 classic. I've no idea what is meant by " CAST WHEEL " I " Don't believe everything that I think " but I think the 1100 custom, classic and Silverado all use the same stator. True or false?
 

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https://sites.google.com/site/vstar1100kb/home/repairs/charging-system they all have the same motor., i think when the classics came out they had spoke wheels. the change over to a cast wheel was in the early years. classics and silverado's are the same, silverado came with saddle bags and a windscreen. both have 16" front wheels where the custom has 18" up front.on the link read the first chapter it's called "must do". never give the bike throttle when starting,
 

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Discussion Starter #29
I've been looking at stators for this bike and the reason I ask about the " CAST WHEEL " is because one stator fitment description states it's for 03-09 v-star XVS1100AW (cast wheel). Reading part description and capabilities; Dimentionally; inside dia., outside dia. and thickness are all the same as the stator off the bike. capabilities; electronically read the same as the stator off the bike, except mine is to ground shorting out.
This stator's wire to wire resistance is; white to white 0.8ohms +/- 20%, pickup coil black to grey 209ohms +/-20%. The pickup coil 2prong connections are rotated 90degs from the mating connection on the bike. The plastic connector does not match up with what's on the bike either, so this isn't going to work. The other stator I've been looking at; 99-03 v-star XVS1100; dimensionally is the same as what's on the bike however, capabilities electronically, the wire to wire resistance reads; white to white 0.4ohms+/-20% and the pickup coil black to grey 190ohms +/-20%. I guess I got off track from your last post NICKBEHAVIN but this issue has got my attention and put me in search mode. I've conditioned myself to start the bike in neutal with no throttle ever since I've owned the bike. Another issue is that battery at rest is supposed to read 12.5 and 12.8v. Mine is reading 13.6volts. It's sitting on the work bench, so no outside source to effect reading. Seems a bit high. I could read it as charging when it's not.
 

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Another issue is that battery at rest is supposed to read 12.5 and 12.8v. Mine is reading 13.6volts. It's sitting on the work bench, so no outside source to effect reading. Seems a bit high. I could read it as charging when it's not.
Yes that's a pretty big issue.
Be sure your meter is set on DC and then measure another battery.

Unless it is connected to a charger at the time, it should never read over 13.0.
That is assuming that it is a "standard" type of battery and not something exotic like Lithium.
 

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Another issue is that battery at rest is supposed to read 12.5 and 12.8v. Mine is reading 13.6volts. It's sitting on the work bench, so no outside source to effect reading. Seems a bit high. I could read it as charging when it's not.
Yes that's a pretty big issue.
Be sure your meter is set on DC and then measure another battery.

Unless it is connected to a charger at the time, it should never read over 13.0.
That is assuming that it is a "standard" type of battery and not something exotic like Lithium.
 

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Have you been keeping the battery on a tender ? If so, the tender will get it charged to around 13.5V - 13.7V and then the float charge while still on the tender could read what you've got at 13.6V. I've bought AGM batteries thru mail order and they'll read 13.6V or more right out of the box. Once they're off the bench and installed in the bike, it's common to see a voltage drop to more like 12.8V.
 

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I've bought AGM batteries thru mail order and they'll read 13.6V or more right out of the box.
I'm a bit skeptical of that.
Since I've never heard ANYBODY else say that, in dozens of different "automotive" forums for the entire 30 years or so since AGMs came into wide use.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
@SINICAL; yes I have been keeping it on a tender. For about a week or longer. I thought I'd leave it hooked up to the tender while I'm working on the bike. I've seen where guys have left a tender on a battery, although it was a Deep Cycle Marine battery, for months until they were able to get the boat back in the water. With winter coming on, I know I'll probably put the battery on the tender. Is it not good to leave a battery on a tender for that long? and yes it is a standard DURABATT PT14B-4 12v,12AH battery. I tested the battery without the tender connected, and I'm getting 13.5v.
 

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I'm a bit skeptical of that.
Since I've never heard ANYBODY else say that, in dozens of different "automotive" forums for the entire 30 years or so since AGMs came into wide use.
Not a problem here, Easy Rider, no offense taken. Some of these AGM's are "factory activated" before shipping. The last 4 batteries I've bought have been Motobatt batteries:

MotoBatt Motorcycle Batteries | ATV | Scooter | Snowmobile | UTV

All 4 have arrived with a charge of 13.6V (or more) directly out of the box. Guess the only way I can prove that is to respectfully suggest that you try a Motobatt next time and order it directly from the factory.
 

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@SINICAL; yes I have been keeping it on a tender. For about a week or longer. I thought I'd leave it hooked up to the tender while I'm working on the bike. I've seen where guys have left a tender on a battery, although it was a Deep Cycle Marine battery, for months until they were able to get the boat back in the water. With winter coming on, I know I'll probably put the battery on the tender. Is it not good to leave a battery on a tender for that long? and yes it is a standard DURABATT PT14B-4 12v,12AH battery. I tested the battery without the tender connected, and I'm getting 13.5v.
All sounds good here. The float charge on your tender must be set for 13.5V. If left on the tender, if the charge drops below that, the tender will kick on and bring it back up to 13.5V. If you were to disconnect the tender and leave the battery on the bench or install it in the bike (also without being on a tender) you'd see the charge gradually drop over time. Leaving the battery on the tender while not in use would actually be recommended. For an AGM battery, it'd just be leave it on the tender until the battery was going to be put into use. For a traditional wet cell battery, it wouldn't be a bad idea to check the fluid levels in the cells from time to time.
 

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My battery lasted 10 years, never on a tender. I would start the bike once a month which you should not do. The last year it ran down half way thru winter so it was time to replace it. Now i would put the tender on it once a month just to maintain.
 

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Discussion Starter #38
@ SINICAL; I disconnected the battery and let it sit overnight, then tested again. It's dropped to12.7. Reference to wet cell; this battery is a maintenance free (sealed) battery. So is this a dart throw to how long I can leave it connected to a tender? I've lost the instructions paper that came with the tender, so I'm using you guys as a LIFE LINE support group. I get as good of an answer or better from people who ride or are motorcycle mechanics than trying to get a straight answer elsewhere. WOW! looking at stators, I'm getting from $75.-$450. for a replacement, and I don't think any of them are US made.
 

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@ SINICAL; I disconnected the battery and let it sit overnight, then tested again. It's dropped to12.7.
That's more normal. But you might want to let it sit for another couple of days.
It should NOT drop any more than that.

As for the tender, if you have the make and model number a Google search might turn up the specs. and operating instructions.
If it is a "real" battery maintainer.....fully automatic tender type.....then it theoretically can be left connected forever.
If it is a cheap trickle charger or manual charger then it should NOT be left connected continuously.
 

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the way i hear it is for stator or regulator stick with oem.some of ebay stators will only go 6 months. fyi your bike was made in japan lol.so why not buy from that part of the world.
 
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