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In complete agreement with Easy Rider & nickbehavin.............If I see 12.8V with the battery in the bike and not running, I'm happy. When I eventually see 12.6V cold in bike, I start watching it more carefully.

Parts-wise, I used to use Bike Bandit for metric parts, but recently started using these folks:

www.rockymountainatvmc.com

Haven't bought from this one, but looks interesting. Stumbled on it while researching and bookmarked it for future use:

www.regulatorrectifier.com

Couple more:

[url]www.electrosport.com


www.ricksmotorsportelectrics.com

Parts from these last 2 show up on eBay a lot, I have no knowledge of their quality (good or bad), so as nickbehavin suggests, it's Buyer Beware or someone with experience with these sellers might chime in.
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Discussion Starter #43
I put in a new stator, battery reads 12.6 at rest and volt meter reads 13.7 @ 1500rpm. Bike running really rough and backfiring, won't idle. Head light and dash lights flicker and dim @ low RPM. Any ideas?
 

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What is the voltage reading when the engine is having a fit ??

My first thought is that the stator has a "timing" winding in it......but I really doubt that is true on this model.

Then the next thing you would suspect is the Rectifier/Regulator.

But a loose electrical connection somewhere is also possible; main battery cables at either end.
 

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Discussion Starter #45
Battery cables on both ends secured, when the engine is " having a fit " running rough and backfiring, voltage drops to 11.6 or fluctuating up and down. After trying to start a few times, now it won't start at all. Spits, sputters and backfires.
 

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when the engine is " having a fit " running rough and backfiring, voltage drops to 11.6 or fluctuating up and down.
Either something is still wrong with the charging circuitry OR something is dragging the battery down due to high current draw when running.......OR the battery is just weak.
OR your idle speed is way too low.

I assume the engine smooths out at 1500 RPM.
 

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Had entered this thread during the battery discussion. Have gone back and read thru from the start. Originally, you had no juice going to the battery while the bike was running. You tested the stator and determined it was bad, even found a couple burnt out stator coils. Now with the new stator, you're at least getting 13.7V @1500 rpm which actually isn't bad, but you're now getting erratic readings and performance when trying to keep the bike at idle.

When it's acting up, the reading is 11.6V with some fluctuation up 'n down, yes ? When some voltage regulators go south, the readings can go all over the chart. Question is, when it's reading 13.7V @1500 rpm, is that reading staying constant or is it also fluctuating ? If it is fluctuating same as it does at 11.6V, then I'd be thinking bad voltage regulator, but we can't rule out the possibility of a bad electrical connection elsewhere as Easy Rider has pointed out.

First things first in trying to isolate the problem more, here's a good bench test that you can do on your voltage regulator rectifier off the bike:


Also as Easy Rider has said, you want the battery to be fully charged again when you get back to fire-up, but for now, please check out the voltage regulator and let us know what you get there, O.K. ?
 

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Quick clarification on voltage readings being "constant" or "fluctuating".

If it's say, 13.73V then goes to 13.75V then 13.74V, etc. that's normal and "constant".

If it reads 11.6V then 13.9V then 10.4V then 12.6V (all random #'s) that's "fluctuating" and not good.

Have to get on with it here, but will check back later...............
 

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Discussion Starter #49
First things first, r/r part # is SH678-11, this meant for a Yamaha YZF-R6. I'm here, just need to look up how to attach photos. FNG's eh? bare with, I'll be back.
 

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Understood, your's is a Mosfet type. Here's a couple vids, please watch 'em and I'll try to explain more below the vids:

Here's a test for your exact Model SH678-11:


EDIT: I can't post 2 vids on one post and will have to edit these, patience please..........
 

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Here's a bench test of a different model:



Here's the tricky part, that being trying to explain this accurately......LOL!

In the first one (your Model) the guy never switches the multimeter leads and essentially gets no conclusive results. In the 2nd one, the guy does switch the multimeter leads and comes up with some real numbers. Please note that in each one, 5 terminals are being tested. One +, one - three for diodes. On your's, it looks like the two SIDE terminals on top in the vid are either + or -. The terminal in the middle on top doesn't get touched. If you do the test on your's as in the vid for your Model, THEN switch mulitmeter leads like the guy in the 2nd vid does, you should get an accurate read. (I hope this makes sense)
 

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Discussion Starter #54
Using video #2 as guide line, the positive lead to the negative side, or right side of r/r I got .566, .557, .555. Zero's where they are supposed to be, per video. Where he appllied the neg lead to the positive side, or left side on the r/r. I got pretty much the same readings, nothing at .100s range. I got .565, .560, .564. Looks pretty much like the same results as in the 1st video.
 

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I know this is frustrating and electrical probs can be especially troubling. Wasn't sure about those .100's readings, either, and just did a little research. The regulator that guy was testing is a "phase control" unit, meaning that the output is controlled for high rpm or low rpm. This may account for his one set of .400's and another set of .100's.

Your's is a "three phase open" unit, meaning that regardless of high or low rpm, the output remains the same.

The test you just did here was for the condition of the diodes and I'd say it passed that one. There's also a regulator circuit that can go south and unfortunately, there's no bench test for that portion. If the unit isn't regulating properly, it shows itself pretty quickly during the running of the bike.

Getting back to an earlier question, when the voltage was acting up, was it fluctuating dramatically ? And when it read 13.7V @1500 rpm, was it a pretty constant read (within a couple/few points of 13.7V) or was it fluctuating dramatically ? We're trying to determine if the regulator portion is toast or not.
 

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Discussion Starter #56
Bike was running really rough at any RPM. It seems to me the volt readings were fluctuating pretty wildly. Now it won't run at all. Spits, sputters, backfires and stumbles turning the motor over. I'm pulling side cover off to check connections again. Only change recently has been the stator, the bike never ran like this before. Even when it wasn't charging, bike ran smoothly, I woke up to find I own the bike from hell!
 

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Agreed about checking the connections. Also at the battery and insuring that the grounds are O.K. Fuses good ?

Since it ran smoothly even when it wasn't charging, would like to think that your carbs are O.K. and that this is more electrical related.

Charging system is basically just stator/rotor, voltage regulator/rectifier and battery.

Have you unplugged the new stator and tested readings between the stator wires and from the stator wires to ground ? Wouldn't hurt to insure that the new stator is good.

Also, after doing the stator test and with the stator still unplugged to disable the voltage regulator, will the bike fire-up on the battery alone ? (If it does fire 'n run, no need to leave it running long) Am wondering if the voltage regulator had been gradually degrading this whole time and finally decided to give it up. If stator checks out fine and if it'll fire-up on the battery alone, then the voltage regulator might be the culprit.
 

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Discussion Starter #58
I revisited the connections and found out the new stator is bad. How would I be getting a 13.7V reading? Well I guess I would to start and then symptoms got progressivly worse as it fell apart. Proving the E-bay crap isn't worth it! You recommended a couple of sites I can check out, so I'm back to square one. OEM stator is a EL-81410-01-00, so I'll look that up on electrosport and ricksmotorsport and see what they have. I'll let you know when I'm done. Thanks for your help!
 

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Good one, Nick! LOL! Seller even cut off damaged 3-wire connector, how thoughtful of him......hehehe.........

031100.......if you haven't already, please make sure to request a refund from the seller. If he won't, eBay has a 30-day Buyer Protection Plan and should definitely rule in your favor.
 
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