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i originally did the larry rymal quiet pod setup. its in the wkb link i posted earlier. he used a pair rc-1150 k&n filters 3" tall cost a little more. i think the ru-600 are 4". i also cut a exhaust reducer down to attach the pods to the boots with clamps.you can buy a pod kit from max air, or PCS, i think that comes with a reducer . plugs should be off white tan is running rich. imo
Ok so they are very light tan. they have a bit of color. i turned the pms out to 2 1/4 turns. But there is no erosion or wear on the plugs.

IMG_0052.jpg
 

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your plugs look good.i don't know how big a deal it is to run lean. when i did pods i checked the plugs after a couple hundred miles and they were white.i panicked and turned the screws out till i got a little color on them. then i turned them so the popping just started to go away, i like a little popping though.after jetting for pods the only adjustment you can make is the screws, i tried a few catch cans, now i have 1" pvc about 6" long lightly stuffed with a plastic scouring pad, then 5/8" heater hose run under the left side cover exiting along the inside of the left rail of the swingarm, no more mess under the tank.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
I've stuck with the hypercharger and stock air box. I've noticed that when taking the tank off and removing the air box for whatever reason, there is oil in the rubber intake boot that goes to the rear cylinder carb. There is a hose that goes from the front cylinder head to the air box and connects right above that rubber intake boot for the rear cylinder carb. I'm sure that oil is being drawn into that carb and being burned in that cylinder, and how is that not effecting how the motor runs? I have seen a little oil smoke coming from the rear cylinder exhaust pipe, but not every time I start the bike up. None after going on a ride. I have a feeling when I pull the plugs, the rear cylinder plug going to be darker than the front. This is also why after all the work I've done, I went for a 60 mile run and when I got back and idling up to the garage door I noticed a sputter like one of the plugs was miss firing, not bad but noticable. I'm thinking that hose from front cylinder to the air box is a crank pressure relief line? Maybe the engineers thought it mix up in the box, it doesn't it seems to settle in one intake boot only. I'm thinking hard on your pod idea.
 

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your plugs look good.i don't know how big a deal it is to run lean. when i did pods i checked the plugs after a couple hundred miles and they were white.i panicked and turned the screws out till i got a little color on them. then i turned them so the popping just started to go away, i like a little popping though.after jetting for pods the only adjustment you can make is the screws, i tried a few catch cans, now i have 1" pvc about 6" long lightly stuffed with a plastic scouring pad, then 5/8" heater hose run under the left side cover exiting along the inside of the left rail of the swingarm, no more mess under the tank.
they could have a bit more color. But they re on the lean side. Pure white is lean. one of mine has a pinkish color. i was also running a tighter gap. I opened it up on these new plugs. .8.. the gap on the other plugs were what i set it at. Strangly i have more popping now. idk. it runs well. Easyrider was flipin out saying i was way lean and i would hurt my motor. And that it should be put back to stock. Thats the first thing he says if it isnt running right.
 

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I've stuck with the hypercharger and stock air box. I've noticed that when taking the tank off and removing the air box for whatever reason, there is oil in the rubber intake boot that goes to the rear cylinder carb. There is a hose that goes from the front cylinder head to the air box and connects right above that rubber intake boot for the rear cylinder carb. I'm sure that oil is being drawn into that carb and being burned in that cylinder, and how is that not effecting how the motor runs? I have seen a little oil smoke coming from the rear cylinder exhaust pipe, but not every time I start the bike up. None after going on a ride. I have a feeling when I pull the plugs, the rear cylinder plug going to be darker than the front. This is also why after all the work I've done, I went for a 60 mile run and when I got back and idling up to the garage door I noticed a sputter like one of the plugs was miss firing, not bad but noticable. I'm thinking that hose from front cylinder to the air box is a crank pressure relief line? Maybe the engineers thought it mix up in the box, it doesn't it seems to settle in one intake boot only. I'm thinking hard on your pod idea.

That hose is a crankcase breather and is common to have oil in your airbx.. 3 options. deal with it. add a oil catch can. or plug the box and run the hose out back. it is there so pressure doesnt build in the crankcase.
And with pods you must work out what your going to do, or there will be oil from the line. trying to find a small catch can and run a breather out back. it is only routed to the intake for emissions. Also you gain some power with pods. with your setup you have close to 50whp. pods would add another 10. Wth performance exhaust and pods its around 65hp. then you could set your ignition to redline higher and be slightly more advanced. .... oh, with your dynatek ignition did you disconnect your tps? I think i read somewhere that it should be unplugged because it interferes or something.
 

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you can reduce the amount of oil in the airbox by keeping the oil level in the sight window closer to the bottom line. a lots caused by blowby.
 

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you can reduce the amount of oil in the airbox by keeping the oil level in the sight window closer to the bottom line. a lots caused by blowby.
part of it. But a lot of it comes from high rpm. The oil gets aerosolized more at high rpm.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
I haven't unplugged the TPS yet. I took a look at MaxAir pods that nicbehavin mentioned, and I like the setup. I could take the hypercharger off and have a more direct access to the pms adjustment screw and vacuum line to set the gauges up for carb sync. DivineChaos I believe your right about the rear cylinder burning richer because of warmer air surrounding this cylinder as opposed to the front. Air density is less than when colder. Why I found the rear main had to be reduced to 122.5 and the front 125.0 main to get a burn pattern that was acceptable. The PMS screw is turned in a little bit more than the front also. I like the idea of running the crank case breather hose out back somewhere with a small catch can. Sometimes stock setup is good from factory since the bike was built with weight, performance and normal speeds in mind. When it comes to emissions control these guys can get carried away, causing more problems and higher maintenance issues than needed. I'm sure the stealerships love the idea, but I DON'T. Looking into all suggestions and see where I fit in, moneywise and installation efforts.
 

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I haven't unplugged the TPS yet. I took a look at MaxAir pods that nicbehavin mentioned, and I like the setup. I could take the hypercharger off and have a more direct access to the pms adjustment screw and vacuum line to set the gauges up for carb sync. DivineChaos I believe your right about the rear cylinder burning richer because of warmer air surrounding this cylinder as opposed to the front. Air density is less than when colder. Why I found the rear main had to be reduced to 122.5 and the front 125.0 main to get a burn pattern that was acceptable. The PMS screw is turned in a little bit more than the front also. I like the idea of running the crank case breather hose out back somewhere with a small catch can. Sometimes stock setup is good from factory since the bike was built with weight, performance and normal speeds in mind. When it comes to emissions control these guys can get carried away, causing more problems and higher maintenance issues than needed. I'm sure the stealerships love the idea, but I DON'T. Looking into all suggestions and see where I fit in, moneywise and installation efforts.
it is loads cheaper to just buy the pods and jets rather than buy a kit. I got my pods for $30, the jets are $5 each(small round mikuni) can get a small catch can $20 then some fuel line to route the vent.
I had bought a jet kit that was supposed to be made for my bike with the mods i had done. Well it never ran right and i had to buy the missing jets. Then i got it running correctly. The premade kits run on the richer side...
And i would look into your dyna and the tps.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
To all, thanks for all your ideas and alternatives to the set up I have now. I'm looking into what's available and by who. I like the POD idea, I can get rid of the Kuryakyn Hypercharger and stock air box. Getting rid of these two will make it easier to work on the bike. I've never run a motor with the plugs burning that white or light. Especially and air cooled motor. I've spoke to some of old timers and they actually jet their bike to run richer in the summertime and then leaner in the cooler months, makes since. When it gets in the 40s, I don't ride at all anymore. I'm going to do some FLY fishing this vacation, talk to you guy's when I get back. Stay in the wind with a friend!
 

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To all, thanks for all your ideas and alternatives to the set up I have now. I'm looking into what's available and by who. I like the POD idea, I can get rid of the Kuryakyn Hypercharger and stock air box. Getting rid of these two will make it easier to work on the bike. I've never run a motor with the plugs burning that white or light. Especially and air cooled motor. I've spoke to some of old timers and they actually jet their bike to run richer in the summertime and then leaner in the cooler months, makes since. When it gets in the 40s, I don't ride at all anymore. I'm going to do some FLY fishing this vacation, talk to you guy's when I get back. Stay in the wind with a friend!
It is much easier without that airbox in the way
 
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