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WELCOME JJC ! .

You'll be surprised and well pleased to find that this bike is in fact good for long road trips -IF- :

You leave it mostly stock and you learn to service it your ownself because
no dealer or shop will ever do it right even if they knew what & how to do it .

Before anything else YOU personally need to adjust the valves to .004" engine stone cold .

Then you need to check the ignition timing, it MUST be on the "F" mark (alternator) and NOT the "T" mark, that is used to adjust the valves .


Of course, you'll want to change the oil with the engine blistering hot using multi-viscosity fully synthetic oil .

Yes, the system is only 6 volts and as mentioned it's only adequate to support what the bike came with .

I highly suggest getting an AMG typ battery and installing it .

For the year , I use a blinking red light, like the ones used by bicyclists ~ in my state this is flat illegal but so far no cops have jazzed me about it .

The taillight bulb can and should be swapped out for an LED one, this will make the running light as bright as the current brake light and the brake light even brighter .

You're
kinda stuck with the headlight, I use a non D.O.T. spec. European headlight that's designed to fit the CT and is MUCH brighter .

They come with a Chinese bulb that always seems to fail far from home in the middle of the night so I carry a spare one and I use Japanese made for both .

Panniers, or 'saddle bags' are sold everywhere, you just toss 'em over the rack and if you're smart you'll tie them to the rack .

The heal toe shifter is great once you adjust it to suit YOUR FEET, give it a try .

If you do these basic things you'll find that 350 mile days are possible .

As far as the seat, maybe try the gel pad sold for wheel chairs ? . looks funny but it great for my old bones .

Let us know how it goes, your general travel plans etc. .

If you're skinny and don't wight much this bike -can- be ridden on the freeway but this is VERY dangerous due to the over taking speeds of other vehicles .
 

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Glad to see you're thinking ! .

It only takes a quart so I do 1,000 mile HOT OIL CHANGES, one of my old Hondas Tiddlers from the 1960's had 40,000 hard miles on it when I last rode it and no smoke .

OIL IS THE CHEAPEST MECHANIC .

These bikes have a centrifugal oil filter in the center of the AutoClutch, few have ever been serviced so keeping fresh oil in it is really important .

I've opened up lots of one owner dealer serviced CT's that were full of sludge because lazy "mechanics" didn't do the job properly .

You've still
not detailed your trip plans, I don't know how soon you plan to go nor your mechanical ability .
 

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Okey-Dokey ;

This is all right up my alley .

First, the shifter : TRY adjusting it ~ it's very simple, you use a BOX END 10MM wrench or SOCKET ~ no open end tools here .

Remove the bolt and wiggle the shifter (properly called a "Clutch Pedal" on these AutoClutch bikes) and PAY ATTENTION as it slips off the shaft, turn it counter clockwise -ONE- set of splines, re install it and then the bolt, don't over tighten it, just until the pedal is not longer wobbly on the splines shaft then a skosh more (Technical Term there) .

The idea is to position the pedal so your foot naturally fits it and reached the toe shift part .

Most of the guys who are chopping off their heel-toe shifters are the same guys who delete the stock air filter then ***** because the engine never runs right .

TRY things before making changes you can't easily undo .

If you simply must take the heel shifter off, remove the pedal from the bike FIRST (see above) then use a hacksaw or Sawsall to cut it off as close to the middle part as is possible .

Honda's world beating & famous AutoClutch takes a longer and firmer throw of the pedal too fully change the gears as it actuates the clutch release at the same time, a thing few ever think about until they've made a hash of things .

EG : I have quite a few vintage Honda Tiddlers, I'm 6 feet tall and have size 12 feet so getting my toes underneath the front of the pedal is tricky .

That being said, I like to position the heel / toe shifter several splines off center so it looks seriously tipped even when the bike isn't running .

Folks ask me '? did you bend the shifter ?" ~ no, it works best for me that way .

There's a whole 'nother thing about proper AutoClutch adjusting and how to adjust it .

Simple really once you get the hang of it .

If you know of any junked bikes or a bike breakers the splined shafts are largely the same, this means you can get a standard shifter and slip it right on and off you go .

The battery, how you charge it makes all the difference ~ most use a chearger that's clearly marked : CAR / BOAT / MOTOCYCLE BATTERY CHARGER .

Those are not acceptable to charge Moto batteries unless you're using a car battery (BIG) .

Look at the small print on your battery charger, it must say either 1/4 ampere or 500 milliamps on it or it will ruin your new battery quickly .

You say you have an AGM battery and it won't hold a charge, usually this means it's been overchanged and cooked, = ruined .


The headlights too are fairly well standardized, I'm not sure what year Honda CT110 you have so I sent you a link .

Most Honda CT's ov any year use the same size headlight, maybe the later model Australian 'Postie' bikes have 12 volt bulbs.....

The taillight reflector is also easier than you think :

Clean it well, no oil / grease etc. then allow to dry over night, mask the bike behind the taillight (like cute some cardboard in a 'U' shape, tape the bulb socket closed so nohing can get into it (remove the bulb, duh) then paint the reflector with GLOSS WHITE paint from a Foo-Foo can .

DO NOT USE SILVER ! .

Gloss white will bounce the light better and illuminate the entire red lens .

Oops ~ gotta run, my Sweet says I have to cut the watermelons .

Ask more, O.K. ? .
 

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Okay, you're on your way now .

Remove the battery from the bike .

One ampere is still too much current for that tiny battery .

Can you post pictures ? .

Do you have a test light with a point on one end and a wire with alligator clip on the other ? .
 

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That seat looks nice and comfy ~ did you make it yourself ? .

I understand electricity well, not 'good' ;) .I too have been working as a Mechanic for well over 50 years and I also have factory and dealer training not just by guess or by gosh experience .

I also understand that the battery manufacturers and Motocyle manufacturers know better than I or others who offer criticism but no solutions .

So, we can go forward or not, you choose .

That T.R.A.P. device needs to be removed until you have the bike working properly .

The correct battery charger is 1/4 ampere or less, you can get "wall wart" typ chargers dirt cheap from bike shops (make sure it has the 6/12 volt switch not all do) or if you're thrifty / broke you can buy them at thrift stores for $5 or less, just make sure you read the small print where it says 6V 500mA , cut the plug off the end of the wire and add plug to match your bike's harness or alligator clips to attach directly to the battery's leads .

Your 1981 model year Honda CT110 is a rare bird, they made some changes in the 1980 model year that can affect charging if you're not familiar with it .

If you want and are willing to take some time at it I'll walk you through it step by step but it'll be slow because I don't live on the computer, I have works to go out and get greasy doing so the back and forth takes a while, okay ? .

You also cannot skip steps or it won't work .
 

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EDIT :

I made a direct response but the proper answer is :

This is supposed to be a thread about helping a guy get an old Motocycle ready for use, not a p*$$ing contest by one who's mis using his bully pulpit and hasn't even tried to help the original poster, my apologies to all offended .
 

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Looks like you're well on your way .

The valve tappets (.002" engine STONE COLD & set to the "T" mark) should have been the very first thing you touched, expect the intake valve to have close to zero clearance .

It looks like I'm being booted off this fine forum, that's a shame but many others before me have asked what's the problem, you have my E-Mail feel free to contact me there I can help you out or direct you to another CT help site .

Yes, I made that post, NO unless English is your second language in no way did I say I'm out, YOU DID THAT and now you are talking out of the other side of your mouth .

I -do- understand this is YOUR forum (you're the "Super Moderator") and I'm a guest so I have to follow your rules and I do this unlike you who changes what you say and then attack me, I don't cotton to bullies never have and never will .

You're abusing your bully pulpit and that's why traffic here is so low and folks don't stick around .

I hope you'll stop and think before giving me the air but it's your show, feel free to make a fool of your self .

Give me time and I'll make mistakes too, I can learn even after 7 decades on God's green Earth .
 

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No sir ;

You're firmly in control and dishonest to boot .

I like this forum but I'm able to learn .

you're over 79 years old yet still have not learned some important things .

I didn't make this a pissing contest, you did .

SIGH indeed .
 
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