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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Oh,
a suggestion was made that I should just buy another bike. Guys, I would like a 125 but can't buy one. I can't even see one around here(hence asking if I can use some things you all have found for your 125's) So just looking for help on what I have.

If you can help, I always appreciate it
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Agreed you have to watch where you go for sure. Happily, I can't even fo much over 200 miles on my GSA. But I want to have a bit of fun & I have a lot of dirt roads around here that i could do a overnighter on. Not like the guys in AU that go 300-400 a day or Ari from RevZilla that went to Alaska.
But I have a few things I would want to improve first.
Still have a headlight issue. Looking for what was called a 'European' light. I see my rear taillight reflector needs work. And not sure why my sealed 6v battery will not stay charged even though I have it on a special 6v charger. Would like to know more about how to improve the battery situation. Additionally,need some improvement in suspension. May have the rear figured out, but not the ft.
Do, still need help. Hopping Nate comes back with more headlight info. That would be a big help.
 

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Okey-Dokey ;

This is all right up my alley .

First, the shifter : TRY adjusting it ~ it's very simple, you use a BOX END 10MM wrench or SOCKET ~ no open end tools here .

Remove the bolt and wiggle the shifter (properly called a "Clutch Pedal" on these AutoClutch bikes) and PAY ATTENTION as it slips off the shaft, turn it counter clockwise -ONE- set of splines, re install it and then the bolt, don't over tighten it, just until the pedal is not longer wobbly on the splines shaft then a skosh more (Technical Term there) .

The idea is to position the pedal so your foot naturally fits it and reached the toe shift part .

Most of the guys who are chopping off their heel-toe shifters are the same guys who delete the stock air filter then ***** because the engine never runs right .

TRY things before making changes you can't easily undo .

If you simply must take the heel shifter off, remove the pedal from the bike FIRST (see above) then use a hacksaw or Sawsall to cut it off as close to the middle part as is possible .

Honda's world beating & famous AutoClutch takes a longer and firmer throw of the pedal too fully change the gears as it actuates the clutch release at the same time, a thing few ever think about until they've made a hash of things .

EG : I have quite a few vintage Honda Tiddlers, I'm 6 feet tall and have size 12 feet so getting my toes underneath the front of the pedal is tricky .

That being said, I like to position the heel / toe shifter several splines off center so it looks seriously tipped even when the bike isn't running .

Folks ask me '? did you bend the shifter ?" ~ no, it works best for me that way .

There's a whole 'nother thing about proper AutoClutch adjusting and how to adjust it .

Simple really once you get the hang of it .

If you know of any junked bikes or a bike breakers the splined shafts are largely the same, this means you can get a standard shifter and slip it right on and off you go .

The battery, how you charge it makes all the difference ~ most use a chearger that's clearly marked : CAR / BOAT / MOTOCYCLE BATTERY CHARGER .

Those are not acceptable to charge Moto batteries unless you're using a car battery (BIG) .

Look at the small print on your battery charger, it must say either 1/4 ampere or 500 milliamps on it or it will ruin your new battery quickly .

You say you have an AGM battery and it won't hold a charge, usually this means it's been overchanged and cooked, = ruined .


The headlights too are fairly well standardized, I'm not sure what year Honda CT110 you have so I sent you a link .

Most Honda CT's ov any year use the same size headlight, maybe the later model Australian 'Postie' bikes have 12 volt bulbs.....

The taillight reflector is also easier than you think :

Clean it well, no oil / grease etc. then allow to dry over night, mask the bike behind the taillight (like cute some cardboard in a 'U' shape, tape the bulb socket closed so nohing can get into it (remove the bulb, duh) then paint the reflector with GLOSS WHITE paint from a Foo-Foo can .

DO NOT USE SILVER ! .

Gloss white will bounce the light better and illuminate the entire red lens .

Oops ~ gotta run, my Sweet says I have to cut the watermelons .

Ask more, O.K. ? .
 

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The battery, how you charge it makes all the difference ~ most use a chearger that's clearly marked : CAR / BOAT / MOTOCYCLE BATTERY CHARGER .

Those are not acceptable to charge Moto batteries unless you're using a car battery (BIG) .

Look at the small print on your battery charger, it must say either 1/4 ampere or 500 milliamps on it or it will ruin your new battery quickly .
IF you have a charger that really is fully automatic (tender type), then the amperage capacity makes absolutely NO difference. One of a capacity from 2 to 4 amps is more versatile.
Trust me on this. I've been doing this for near to 60 years.

If he is going to be doing electrical work the first thing he needs is a multi-meter.
As I said before, the onboard charging system would just BARELY keep the battery up with the stock lights.
Any additions or changes likely means that it would slowly drain even if ridden regularly.

The battery needs to be charged and tested.
The charging voltage needs to be tested.
IF the battery is over 3 years old, it might be bad.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Nate
good info. I will check my charger. Ya, I have been messing with the shifter,but think I'm just not a heel guy. The investigation continues.
White paint, sounds good.
I have a 1981 with a 5 1/4" bulb,6" blaze & 7" housing. Listened to a AU guy changing headlights & he had a 5 3/4" bulb.Found a lot of lights at 5 3/4", but none at 5 1/4". He did have a 12v however. I will look for your link, hoping you have a line on 5 1/4" EU lights.
 

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Okay, you're on your way now .

Remove the battery from the bike .

One ampere is still too much current for that tiny battery .

Can you post pictures ? .

Do you have a test light with a point on one end and a wire with alligator clip on the other ? .
 

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I hate to disagree but forcing 2 amperes into a 5 A.H. battery will certainly kill it in short order .
Like a LOT of other people, you don't understand electricity very good.

A battery charger will not "force" anything into a battery, assuming that it is the right voltage.

The current rating is the maximum current that it will deliver to a DEAD battery.
That has nothing to do with what it will supply to a partially or fully charged one.
 

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One ampere is still too much current for that tiny battery .
Just stop it please.
That is NOT true.

The charger will supply ONLY what the battery needs, up to a maximum of 1 amp.
Which, incidentally is not too much either if the battery is substantially discharged.
The charging current will drop as the battery charges up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
What is a T.R.A.P.™?
The Transient Reducing Auxiliary Plug (or T.R.A.P.) is a multi-purpose transient reducing device used to reduce electrical transients in cars, trucks, motorcycles, boats, RVs, etc. It plugs directly into the vehicle’s 12-Volt auxiliary power outlet (aka the cigarette lighter).
What will a T.R.A.P.™ protect against?
The T.R.A.P.™ is designed to guard against very fast transients from any source. These could be a result of vehicle transients from load changes (such as your A/C kicking on and off), conducted transients from a charging port, or radiated energy from a nearby lightning strike or an overhead electromagnetic pulse (EMP).
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
One ampere is still too much current for that tiny battery .
I was under the impression that the max out out is 1 amp from the charger, but the battery will only draw what it needs. And since my charger has a float mode & desulfer mode it will not over charge. It will actually turn off & not constenty 'float' the battery into being over charged.
Where as a float charger will/can over charge a battery. The info I have on this charger is that it turns off & monitors. When battery drops it turns on.
The auto desulsifyer mode is an added benifit
 

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That seat looks nice and comfy ~ did you make it yourself ? .

I understand electricity well, not 'good' ;) .I too have been working as a Mechanic for well over 50 years and I also have factory and dealer training not just by guess or by gosh experience .

I also understand that the battery manufacturers and Motocyle manufacturers know better than I or others who offer criticism but no solutions .

So, we can go forward or not, you choose .

That T.R.A.P. device needs to be removed until you have the bike working properly .

The correct battery charger is 1/4 ampere or less, you can get "wall wart" typ chargers dirt cheap from bike shops (make sure it has the 6/12 volt switch not all do) or if you're thrifty / broke you can buy them at thrift stores for $5 or less, just make sure you read the small print where it says 6V 500mA , cut the plug off the end of the wire and add plug to match your bike's harness or alligator clips to attach directly to the battery's leads .

Your 1981 model year Honda CT110 is a rare bird, they made some changes in the 1980 model year that can affect charging if you're not familiar with it .

If you want and are willing to take some time at it I'll walk you through it step by step but it'll be slow because I don't live on the computer, I have works to go out and get greasy doing so the back and forth takes a while, okay ? .

You also cannot skip steps or it won't work .
 
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