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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
is there a trick to getting off the front sprocket nut, thing won't budge, do I need a vacuum type bleeder to get the clutch properly bled, can anyone email me the wiring diagram, specificly the charging system....thanks
 

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Set the bike on a rear stand. Put it in neutral. Place a 2x4 or other piece of wood or metal (wrap metal bar etc. in a towel as not to damage the wheel) between the swingarm and wheel so that when the wheel rolls forward, the wood blocks it up against the swingarm so that it will not move. Use a 32mm socket and breaker bar to get the nut off.

It also might be handy to have a helper standing in front of the bike holding the bars. You can also push the front wheel against an immoveable object (wall etc.) so that it will not roll forward on the front wheel. Sometimes those sprocket nuts are a bear to get off.

DO NOT KEEP THE BIKE IN GEAR OR YOU WILL DAMAGE THE TRANSMISSION. Namely the gear forks.

Bleeding the clutch is not hard. It depends on how long the bike has been sitting. Sometimes it takes a while for those old pistons to push all of the air out, but it will eventually work. Have an 8mm wrench and some patience ready. You also might try bleeding the master cylinder before bleeding the slave cylinder. Sometimes air gets trapped up there. YOU DON'T NEED A VACUUM BLEEDER. I have one and it sits in the box.

You get all that? (I sent this in a PM)

:lol:

- Nut

BTW: What is wrong with your charging system?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
thanks a million for the reply, I'll do that, makes great sense, the bike does not charge, I can't start it though till I find the carb manifolds, as cylinders 1 and 4 are ripped and I'm told they can't be found, discontinued, the bike is not mine, I'm familiar with the basic charging systems on the brit bikes, so far I don't know what plug in device is even the regulator, is the zenor and rectifier combined in a package?
 

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They still make them. I just bought some not too long ago. For the '87, they are 34mm. You might have to look at the Katana 750 or Bandit 600 as a cross reference. I believe the carb spacing is the same on all of those bikes. In a pinch, you could use RTV or some other type of silicone on the rips until you find a set.

As for the charging, make sure you have a new battery, and that the bike is running correctly first. Sometimes, there are other circumstances causing a weak charge on these not related to the charging system.

- Nut
 
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