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My father bought this bike the year I was born, so I grew up seeing it every day waiting for this time to come. After sitting for 10-11 years, he passed it down to me. Due to lost interest, he only put 2000 miles on the bike and took care of it durning that time.
I?ve worked on dirt bikes, atvs, etc growing up but never a bike of this size.. 1340cc Evolution engine. Kehein CV Carb. Custom large air cleaner.
Random side note: duel fuel tanks. Front lower vent connection tube unplugged off of the right tank and tube is sealed with bolt and clamp. Tank spout is not covered. Has been like this all these years. Only left tank being used.
ALSO: air filter element and cover lost over the last couple years somehow. Only air cleaner mount is attached to carb

I am going to tell you the exact order I?ve done everything up until now... I?m sorry in advance.. kind of..

-brought bike to home garage
-cleaned bike meticulously all day
-changed spark plugs
-added some oil to spark plug holes before putting in new spark plugs
-changed oil, not filter though
-put new battery in
-threw gallon of premium gas in the left tank(previously empty)
-tried to start it
-turned over and bike attempted to start just fine, but oil was spewing out of breather tube attached to air cleaner mount. Did not start
Next Day
-realized I had petcock turned to RES, and the right tank wasn?t even hooked up(aside from upper connection tube under speedometer plate).
-Turned it down to ON
-After opening choke, started up immediately. Let it run for 30ish seconds. Did that again a couple hours later for 1 minute.
Day 3
Took for small ride around couple neighborhood streets. Ran with choke open.. later half choke.. bogged down closed choke.
Day 4
-Changed oil again and oil filter this time.
-drove to gas station 2.3 miles away and put 2 gallons in with 4 ounces of sea foam.
-drove around probably 5-6 miles.
Day 5
-Started right up with open choke. After warming up and taking off around block.. Full throttle response.. no backfire.. idles at stop with closed choke and doesn?t die. Minimal smoke if any at all out of exhaust
lt Switches gears sliiiightly rough, but not bad at all.

Yes, I?m driving around with no air cleaner attached.
Yes, I haven?t changed transmission fluid or brake fluid yet.
Yes, tires are dry rotting(tubed tire, so less worry imo although dangerous I know). Looking for new tires.
Top speed reached and held at-60mph for 2 miles.
Oil Puke out of cleaner mount hole is now very, very minimal.
Gas has steady drip out of excess spillover tube out of carb when I?m at a stop. BUT at some stops, it?s not dripping.
Oil returning to tank just fine.. same level after rides.. no leaks in hoses.

So.. I know now.. after much research I obviously should have done prior.. there are a lot of steps I probably/did missed.

TELL ME:

Knowing every detail, what should my next moves be??

Some of them I know of due to research.. but I?d greatly appreciate feedback from those of you who have been around Harley?s as I am only 24 and have never owned/worked on one before.

Thank you in advance,

Dedicated Owner
 

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New rubber... tubed tyres are not safer than tubeless they are more likely to have a sudden total loss of air than tubeless ones...also brake and fuel lines may be due for a swap. I would run some more carb cleaner through, run it and leave overnight....sea-foam may not be the best stuff either.

Many of the rubber parts may have shrunken with age hence the slight fuel drip....however this may be attributable to a slightly sticky float needle. If this continues a new seal in the fuel valve (tap) may be needed. If this is the case then new fuel lines should also be included.

The oil coming out of the breather may be a simple overfill situation...a dipstick should be on the filler cap at least, or a sight glass on the side of the case...usually the right side. This needs to be checked with the bike on level ground and upright. Between the bottom and top lines is usually sufficient....although some bikes like the oil to the top line.

It would be a good idea to drain the oil and fit a new filter too. As for transmission fluid there isn't any unless this is a pre-unit construction engine/gearbox... it shares the engine oil. You must not put engine oil with fiction modifiers in it, typically car engine oil will have these, as it will make the clutch slip.

The stiff gearbox may be typical of this model or the clutch plates may be gummy after a long time sitting. If it doesn't improve it may be worth stripping the clutch plates out and inspecting them. Alternately the clutch cable may just need adjusting...it should have about 3mm free play at the lever end before any resistance is felt.

Think I have covered most things...Good luck
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Great response and helpful feedback. I really do appreciate it and I will try to cover everything you?ve said.

As for the transmission.. there is trans fluid for this bike and when I open the fill plug.. it has a pink color to it. Is that anywhere close to a normal color for trans fluid? Unfamiliar with it.
 

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Knowing every detail, what should my next moves be??
PLEASE do not duplicate your posts here in multiple sub-forums.

I believe it says that in the forum rules.

I am deleting the other two copies of this that you did.
 

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Is this bike a pre unit construction...that is where the gearbox is physically separate from the engine? I have checked online and found this Youtube..


Seems your bike does indeed have separate transmission oil. In regards to the pink colour someone probably ran transmission fluid rather than gear oil or engine oil and it is nothing to worry about...IMO

Good luck
 

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The oil out the breather thing is pretty typical, Harleys will dry sump from the tank into the crankcase when sitting a long time. The older bikes like my 1974 XL just had a vent tube to the ground and it would puke out on the floor of the garage. Later they had a hose from the crankcase to the breather and it would fill the breather and eventually they would breathe directly through the heads to the breather but they all still dry sump to the case and that oil has to go somewhere when you start it up especially when you add more oil. All big twin Harleys have a separate case for the trans and another for the primary drive so you have 3 holes that need fluid.
The older Shovels and earlier bikes had a dry clutch with a chain oiler than would oil the primary chain with engine oil inside the primary case (crank to clutch case) and an oil return line low in the case.
By late 1984 all had a wet clutches and sealed primary cases that require a small amount of fluid.
If I were you I'd pick up a Harley factory service manual, you can get them new still I think and there are usually a few on eBay used.
Best money you'll spend on that bike will be that manual.
The carb prolly has varnish in it, I'd at least take the float bowl off and spray lots of carb cleaner in and around every place you can get it into, pretty reliable carbs but the floats will stick if enough crud is in there. That Evo is a solid reliable engine, I put over 100,000 miles on the first one I had without doing much to it at all and nothing inside the motor. I rode it in for a fresh top end at that point. Your bike sitting that long may develop some oil leaks when you start running it a lot, sitting years is hard on gaskets etc. Base gaskets on the cylinders is a spot to watch for, won't stop her from running but can be messy. Rockerbox (valve covers) gaskets are another that typically start to leak after years sitting. The good news is H-D big twins are easy to pull the top end off and reseal if need be, very simple and can be done with the engine in the bike.
 
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