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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi yall. So here I am, hoping to get help on my 1996 Suzuki Intruder 1400 now at 100k mileage, probably 65,000 miles.
Symptoms:
-No juice whatsoever when turning ignition
-After sitting for two weeks, lights came on fully when turning ignition, but only a quick and slight starter click, then all power disappears, lights go off, but come back on after 10 secs on their own. Repeat this process maybe 8 times, then, nothing. No more lights, not even a starter engage attempt.
-Voltage reads at 12.5v but only when the ignition is not engaged, but once the key is turned to on, there is no voltage read off the meter anymore.

Other then that the only other problem I still have is no brake light but I believe that is totally unrelated. Been like that for a while.
All I've done so far is clean the ignition switch contacts and check the 4 10A and the 1 20A fuses.
OK any ideas anyone? Please and thank you. Looking forward to any clues.
 

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-Voltage reads at 12.5v but only when the ignition is not engaged, but once the key is turned to on, there is no voltage read off the meter anymore.
You are overlooking the obvious here.
Either you have a bad battery OR a loose or corroded connection on one of the main cables.

IF.....you are measuring the voltage directly on the battery POSTS and not on the cable ends or somewhere else, then the battery is BAD. Pretty much no other option.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I read the voltage off the hooked up cable end from the positive (to the starter I believe), and off the bike for the ground. Thanks so much for your reply, at this point buying a new battery makes sense, or I should say is worth it in the elimination round of possibilities.
 

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at this point buying a new battery makes sense, or I should say is worth it in the elimination round of possibilities.
SIGH. No it doesn't.

You HAVE a meter.
IF you use it correctly you can tell if the battery itself is the problem or not.

Measure the voltage on the actual battery posts; BOTH meter leads on the battery itself.
If it goes to zero there, then the battery is bad.

If it does NOT go to zero there, then you will just be wasting your money.......when the real problem likely is a bad connection on one of the main cables.

Are you understanding what I am saying ?
It doesn't seem like it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for your reply again, sorry about my bad explanations. I get that a lot... I just did a direct battery post test and got the same result as the indirect lead test mentioned originally before: 12.6 v. Any ideas?
 

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got the same result as the indirect lead test mentioned originally before: 12.6 v. Any ideas?
OK.....let's review ALL of the symptoms again just to be sure.
12.6 with everything OFF is OK.
What happens when you turn the ignition ON.....with the probes still on the posts ??
If "everything" is still dead BUT the battery still reads ~12.6, then you have a bad connection OR the main fuse is blown.
The main fuse often is in it's own holder that is attached to the same lug on the solenoid where the + cable from the battery attaches.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Hey thanks for your help. It's been a long 10 days since I could not ride my bike, I finally fixed it last night AND fixed the brake light issue, but wouldn't you know it, it is now raining like hell and I can't wait to get back on the saddle after the rain.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Hey guess what! The story keeps getting better and better! I drove it around a bit yesterday after changing the battery, drove it some more today then...same thing. Got lights but no cranking power. So correct me if I'm wrong, but I'm guessing either the alternator is working just enough to keep it running but not enough to keep a charge on the battery, or the voltage regulator is kaputski. I figure if it is an alternator failure, then the bike wouldn't even run at all. Just guessing though.
 

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Most of your guesses are wrong.
It appears that you HAVE a meter, why are you NOT using it instead of just guessing ???

Was your new battery fully charged ?
Charge it again and if it runs then, measure the voltage while it is running.
It should be above 13 volts just a bit above idle speed.
 
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