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I have a 97 Intruder 800 that's not starting. The headlights, taillights, brake light, and turn signals are not working and it will not turn over. My guess is a bad ground or a short in wiring. Any ideas?
 

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Things to check are,...Battery. Battery cables for corrosion and tightness. Main fuse. Ignition switch. Any signs of shorting...since you suspect this what happened to make you think it? A short normally would not stop the ancillary equipment working unless it was at the battery end or ignition switch which effectivley isolates the electrical circuitry.

Check the battery charge, if nothing is working the battery is either fully shorted out or you have an open circuit between it and the electrical system. If this is not the case you should see at least something from the lights even a low glow.
 

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Things to check are,...Battery. Battery cables for corrosion and tightness. Main fuse. Ignition switch. Any signs of shorting...since you suspect this what happened to make you think it? A short normally would not stop the ancillary equipment working unless it was at the battery end or ignition switch which effectivley isolates the electrical circuitry.

Check the battery charge, if nothing is working the battery is either fully shorted out or you have an open circuit between it and the electrical system. If this is not the case you should see at least something from the lights even a low glow.
The dash lights and 2 of my headlights (not main one) work still. Everything else is not working. I checked wires, connections, fuses. I can't figure it out.
 

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You need a wiring diagram and a multi-meter to trace the voltage and see where it disappears.
Have you actually removed, cleaned and re-tightened all 4 of the ends on the main battery cables ?
Have you measured the battery voltage when the ignition switch is ON ??

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I had a similar problem with a 2005 Boulevard C90T. I tested all the relays and switches but nothing looked off. Then I started using a wire jumper to bypass some things and I found that my clutch switch was the problem. It was letting some current through but not enough. It started when I used a jumper in it's place. I took the switch apart and cleaned it, and then VROOM.
 

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You need a wiring diagram and a multi-meter to trace the voltage and see where it disappears.
Have you actually removed, cleaned and re-tightened all 4 of the ends on the main battery cables ?
Have you measured the battery voltage when the ignition switch is ON ??

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I have a similar problem with my '97 Intruder VS800. I was getting it started this afternoon and all lights and starter worked fine but it didn't actually start. When I let off on the starter button, I heard a "click" and had zero electricss - no lights, no starter, nothing! I checked all the fuses in the fuse box - all good -, cleaned the ignition switch with electronic cleaner - nothing. It sounded like a fuse, and I don't know if I have another fuse outside the fuse box. It had been running and starting fine, up 'til now. Battery is brand new and measures 12.2v. Do I need to trace the battery ground wire somewhere and which relay should I be looking at, or do I? Thanks for any help!!
 

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12.2 V is NOT enough.
The battery needs to be charged.

And yes, you need to trace the ground wire AND the positive cable too and be sure they are all clean and tight.

There is a "main" fuse somewhere too. Usually in it's own little holder and often bolted directly to the + lug on the starter solenoid.
 

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12.2 V is NOT enough.
The battery needs to be charged.

And yes, you need to trace the ground wire AND the positive cable too and be sure they are all clean and tight.

There is a "main" fuse somewhere too. Usually in it's own little holder and often bolted directly to the + lug on the starter solenoid.
Thank you. I looked on the wiring diagram for another fuse, other than the fuse block, but haven't seen anything. I plan on pulling the battery out tomorrow and checking all the wiring from there on back.

Will let you know what I found! Crazy, though, that it turned over just fine then...nothing!
 

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Thank you. I looked on the wiring diagram for another fuse, other than the fuse block, but haven't seen anything. I plan on pulling the battery out tomorrow and checking all the wiring from there on back.

Will let you know what I found! Crazy, though, that it turned over just fine then...nothing!
So, I went out this morning and tightened the battery cables - they really weren't necessarily loose! I turned the key on and my indicator panel lit up as it should. However, as soon as I engaged the starter I heard a loud pop and all power instantly was gone again. Maybe starter solenoid? If not could it be the relay? I've never heard of a relay "resetting" itself though...
 

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That loud POP and everything going DEAD is almost always a "dead" giveaway that one of the main connections is corroded to the point that it won't carry the high current of the starter anymore........and it arc's and goes open under the high current demand.

If it was a bad solenoid, "everything" would not go dead.
if it was a bad intermediate starting relay, "everything" would not go dead.

Do you have a multi-meter ?
You really need to check the battery voltage now to be sure it isn't the battery itself that has gone open.

Either way, you NEED to take all 4 of the main battery cable connection loose and clean and re-tighten them.
Do NOT put any dielectric grease on the connection points. That is an insulator and goes on AFTER it is all put together.
 

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That loud POP and everything going DEAD is almost always a "dead" giveaway that one of the main connections is corroded to the point that it won't carry the high current of the starter anymore........and it arc's and goes open under the high current demand.

If it was a bad solenoid, "everything" would not go dead.
if it was a bad intermediate starting relay, "everything" would not go dead.

Do you have a multi-meter ?
You really need to check the battery voltage now to be sure it isn't the battery itself that has gone open.

Either way, you NEED to take all 4 of the main battery cable connection loose and clean and re-tighten them.
Do NOT put any dielectric grease on the connection points. That is an insulator and goes on AFTER it is all put together.
Yes, I have a multi-meter. I did check the solenoid and it's fine - reads 3.9 ohm. I have to go to the parts house today anyway so I will have them put a load test on the battery. I will definitely undo and clean all 4 of the areas you mention. What would be the loud pop - the solenoid?
 

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What would be the loud pop - the solenoid?
NO, not the solenoid.
I thought I covered all of that already.

Let's try again.
IF a connection is loose or badly corroded, the heavy current to the starter causes an electrical arc and a burn mark where the connection should be. That causes that connection point to go completely open and everything to go dead.

You can use your meter on volts to check where the open actually is.

Put the negative lead on the negative battery post. That means the actual post, NOT a bolt or connector attached to the post. Then check for voltage on the + battery post. Then on the connector attached to the post. Then to the other end of the fat cable going to the solenoid. Then to the post on the solenoid. Then to the fuse holder for the main fuse.
IF none of those + points shows any voltage, start over with the positive meter lead on the + battery post and move the negative meter lead from the - battery post, then to the connector, then to the other end of the cable and finally to a metal part of the frame.

If it magically starts working again, then you need to disconnect and clean all of the main connection points.
You likely will find one of them that looks REALLY bad.
 
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