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Hello guys,
One of my buddies has a 2000 marauder that sometimes starts and sometimes won't. it doesn't seem to matter if the bike is warm or cold sometimes the start switch will work and sometimes not. He just bought the bike a week ago everything was fine for the first 4 days then the problem started, as i said you turn on the key, all the lights work, the dash lights up everything appears normal till you push the start switch, nothing happens. the other thing is when this happens the bike can be pushed off and runs just fine, I'm thinking mabey the starter relay is shorting out or has corrosion on the wires. anybody got any other ideas? by the way I've already checked all the fuses they are fine. and when the started switch works the starter motor spins with ease and plenty bof power to crank the bike.
 

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I had the same problem on my 2005. If he will disassemble the starter switch houseing on the handle bar and spray some contact cleaner in the small hole in the back of the switch. The housing will not come all the way apart. Don't try to force it. Just open it enough to see the back of the switch. Do not over do the spray. Work the switch a few time and see if that fixes the problem. I think mine had gotten some dust in the switch. Hasn't missed a lick since.
 

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Marauder starting problems

The marauder is a cold blooded beast sometimes, and requires a hard choke. You mentioned that the starter wont engage? Is you friend making sure the bike is in neutral before he tries to start, as the bike wont start in gear with the kickstand down? This might be why it starts when you push it along. Just my 2 cents. had this same issue several years ago. Seemed all to famillar when I read your post.
 

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Check for loose battery cables, which can cause this type of intermittent problem, which will get worse and worse as the cable loosen. Some batteries have not only bolts to hold the cables, but also screws to hold the terminal blocks on- check both if applicable.
 

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Starter switch contacts and especially battery contacts have a problem with corrsion.

Get a 200 grit sandpaper and sand the brass connections that go to the battery. Remember, if there is not an adequate contact surface between the battery and the cable, the bike won't start and I don't give a damn if you got a battery that will start a diesel tractor in North Dakota in January at midnight.

When you are done sanding, the brass connectors should have a bit of a shine to them. The dullness is corrosion, nut much, but just enough to keep a good connection from happening. Make sure the connections are clean before cranking the snot out of them "tightening" the connections. Most bike batteries have phillips head screws that don't need to be cranked all that hard.

Oh yes, check the connections at the starter solenoid (found out the hard way) and at the starter. I don't know where the starter is on this bike, but it should be nestled between the engine and the airbox.

So that's a total of 5 connections to check, starter, 2 at the solenoid, and two at the battery. Failing that, check for a loose ground.

Old school (dangerous) way of testing, get out the jumper cables and tap the hot (red) to the starter. If she snorts like no tomorrow, you have eliminated the starter. If you place the red on the solenoid and she snorts, you have eliminated the solenoid.

.......and no, you can't be afraid of a few sparks when you do this. Not that you ever get used to sparks unless you are a welder.
 
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