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I have scratching my head for about 2 months now trying to figure this out. I got this bike for very cheap and it had been sitting for supposedly 6 months. I cleaned out the carbs and to put in a new fuel pump and the bike ran fine. I have riden 4 thousand miles on it since I first bought it in about 4 or 5 months. The idle is a bit low but once the bike is running there are no problems what so ever. On occation if it gets cold the bike might not start and I actually have two batteries for it because I CAN kill the battery trying to get it to start in the cold. This could be alot of things. However this is not the problem I am having. Wow can't start a new paragraph :( Anyway the problem I am having with the stupid bike is that sometimes when I hit the start button there is no power to the starter. Usually I can pump the clutch a few times and the bike will fire up (When it is warm outside). At night it is not so ready to get going and I have to actual short the starter relay and it fires right up. I have a suspicion that this problem has to do with the stupid pull the clutch in when you start the bike (who ever came up with that idea was a probably found in a car factory) but at this point because the problem happens then I have a few weeks with nothing then it starts again I have no idea. I have checked all the fuzes and all my cables. I have a brother go over it as well and he can't find anything out of the ordinary and just said "that is the way you gotta start it." However normally I just have to pump the clutch 2 ato 5 times and it fires up... Lately now that it is dropping down into the low 60tys at night I am walking home from work.... Any help would really be good because I have to ride this stupid bike 700 miles in 5 days...
 

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Leg Humps The Snap On Tool Man
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When you jump the starter relay are you jumping power to the small "s" terminal allowing the relay to work normally or are you welding screw drivers accross the main terminals? If it spins using the signal line then the problem is up stream, start button, kickstand switch, gear indecator (neutral) switch, clutch switch. I'm fairly sure that Suzuki has been using a 7 pin relay for a few years now that includes turn signals and the kickstand. If you are nuking a screwdriver then the starter relay itself is failing. If it fails to spin even with direct current then the starter motor has dead spots.

Make sure you are in neutral bring the kickstand up, hold the brake and clutch and try it. It sounds like the clutch switch may be failing from your description but it may be ANY of the above mentioned items. Could even be a coroded ground point attached to any of those items as well. Start with a DVOM and look for 12v at all of the apropreit places.

NMc
 

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Are you saying that now the bike does not start when you cross the starter relay terminals? Or that it only sometimes does not start when you cross the terminals? If it never starts with the relay crossed, the starter is probably roached. If it sometimes works and sometimes doesn't, I'd say the safety switches, starter button, and electrical connections are suspect.

At the bottom of the clutch lever is a small black box, with an electrical connector coming out of it. This is the safety switch that prevents the bike from starting unless the clutch is pulled in, and it is a common source of problems on Maruaders and Intruders of that vintage as they age, to the point where Suzuki discontinued that part and the replacement part they now sell is a different design. So this is the first place I would start.

Pull the electrical connector off the switch. The wiring harness has two wires with connectors on then that just push over prongs on the switch. If they are loose, dirty, or corroded you will have issues. The best way to test is to make a little jumper wire to connect the two wires, completely bypassing the switch. If your bike starts correctly, either replace the switch (about $15) or just cut the two wires and perminantly twist them together, preferably where you can wrap them with electrical tape then stuff them out of sight.

If temporarily bypassing the switch does nothing, clean the connections and put them back, then test the sidestand safety switch the same way. Also, the starter buttons can wear out, so take you's apart and clean it, maybe turning the contacts over to get a good connection.

As for killing the battery trying to start it, the problem is probably simply one of techique. Do not touch the throttle, pull the choke out all the way and make sure it stays out, and hit the starter button. This is where you might appreciate perminantly bypassing the clutch safety switch, as it will leave a hand free to pull the choke out and keep it out, as the choke on these bikes likes to NOT stay where you put it. When the bike fires, push the choke in slowly just enough to keep the engine from racing. After the bike has warmed up a minute puch the choke in all the way, then you can touch the throttle and head on down the road.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thank you so much! I was wondering how to disengage that damn box. I am not fond of pulling in the clutch to start my bike anyway. the battery btw is just a problem with the idle being low and when it is cold the bike doesn't like to start anyway. Usually when I try it and it is being a pain I shut off the key let it sit and try it again. The choke is not good at all it won't start. I just have to let it idle very low for a few minutes and then start applying the throttle slowly. It isn't a big deal I plan on getting it all worked out when I reach my destination... :D
 

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Adjusting the idle speed takes about 30 seconds. Behind the rear cylinder you'll see a cam like deal with an adjuster screw at the bottom. Turn it to adjust the idle speed. your goal is 1200 RPM, which is impossible to know without a tach, but it should idle briskly like a sportbike, not slow and lumpy like a Harley.

If you need it, here is a link to the service manual.

http://www.scribd.com/doc/45719581/Suzuki-Marauder-VZ800-97-02-Service-Manual
 

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Wiring

If you go the route of bypassing the switch, save yourself some headache down the road. Use an environmental splice (P/N M81824/1-1 for 22 AWG), don't use those crappy crimp splices you get for 10 bucks with a crimper from auto stores, use a heat shrink type. Just doing the electrical tape thing will give you a problem with corrosion later due to moister in there; it will eventually give you intermittent issues again. Not to mention the tape oozes the glue out and around on your bike when it gets warmed up.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Ya Fritzman that is the right way to do it LOL... And when I change out my bars and do some of the stuff I am eventually going to do with my bike I promise it will be all straight. However I just need to get it starting and idling correctly for my trip. Once I am there and have gotten settled I will probably go through the entire bike and start slowly getting it to the point it needs to be. :D
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thank you for your help.... Bike is running great and I very happy not having to pull in the clutch lever to start the bike... :D
 
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