[lakeplacidny]

I have a 1970 TS250. It has a 6 volt system.

A guy ran my bike with a dead battery (it was dry) and this seems to have lead to burnt out headlight. I wonder if anything else should be checked.

I added a new well charged battery, and when running at idle (with no lights on (I removed and still have replaced the headlight) I get about 7.3 volts. But when I rev up the engine to about 6000 rpm I'll get up to 9-9.3 volts. This seems high to me, but I would like to confirm with others.

Questions:
1. WHat is the voltage range on your 6 volt system motorcycle at idle, engine revving (rpm?) without headlight and revving WITH headlight (lo) then (hi beam)?

2. What is a normal range?

3. Should I run other electrical tests with the volt / ohm / ahm meter? to make sure I don't blow the next headlight?

Thanks for your advice.

Bonus question on headlight 6V removable bulb:

4. On the TS250 in 1970, you had to replace the whole headlight assembly (6Volt / 25w lobeam / 25 hi beam), since the 6V25/25W bulb is soldered in, and the glass plate is crimped on. Also, this item is discontinued. In any case, I would rather replace the headlight to one where the bulb is removable. I looked at the Clymer book "Suzuki singles 1964-1981" and noticed that on page 79 the headlight has a removable bulb. Can any owners of a Suzuki single tell me if their bike has a 6 volt removable bulb in their headlight assembly? What is the wattage? This way I could order that assembly - tell me your model and year if it sounds like it could fit in my headlight bucket. My headlight is horseshoe shaped.

 

[lee95776]

6 volt battery.

I can't answer the question about changing you headlight to a replaceable bulb type, but it sounds like your battery charging system is fine.

The regulater on your charging system ideally should put out 1.5 volts over it's rated voltage at any speed. A 12volt system will put out 13.5 volts, a 6 volt system will put out 7.5 volts. This is necessary to overcome the potential in the battery and force the electrons to "flow backwards" and charge the battery.

A good regulator will hold the system at 7.5 volts regarless of RPM. but a 3 volt rise is probably OK. You could buy 3 new regulators and get 3 different ranges in voltage outputs. A quick check is to park your bike in the garage (or at night) point he headlight against a wall and rev the engine, (make sure there is ventalation in the garage) if the light goes from a "normal" level to real bright you may have a bad regulator. if it just fluxuates a small amount it's probably OK.

I have experienced a bad battery taking out the regulater on several bikes. The older the bike the more likely it will take out your regulator. Newer electronics can handle the abuse a little better.

That's probably a little more long winded than needed but I hope it helps.

Bob

 

[roadterrorist_2]

the rise in voltage output is normal on most TS's, my 185 used to blow globes all the time when i found it but it gradually went away for no reason

 

[hanother]

75 TS185 blowing headlights

I'm having a problem with my 75, TS185. It has blown the headlight and both itsrument lights, I have read that others have had this trouble and know one has really posted any response to what has actually happened to make them blow. I know that the headlight is supplied by a seperate coil and is unregulated, I checked the AC voltage from the lighting coil I'm getting 14 volts at idle, so my question is what has happened to make the voltage so high? is the coil on its way to going bad?

I hope to hear some insight on this, thanks

 

[roadterrorist_2]

this is what my manual says on this subject

HEADLIGHT FAILURE
"Vibration Failure. this is often an inherant fualt related to the natural vibration characteristics of the engine and frame and is, thus, difficult to resolve. Modifications of the lamp mounting, to change the damping characteristics, may help."
OVERCHARGING of BATTERY
"Regulator or ballast resistor faulty. Overcharging is indicated if the battery becomes hot or it is noticed that the electrolyte level falls repeatedly between checks.

This doesnt really help much but it's all that I could find on the subject

 

[drell8345]

SAme globe problem

I have a 1974 TS185 (after market headlight as I droped the head light and smashed the lens).
I have the same problem, but this has only recently happened. December 2005 I rode the bike constantly and had no problems other than the battery was not getting charged. Auto Electrician later still no result on that front. But recently I started riding it to work after a 6 month lay off and in the past 3 months I have gone through 8 6v globes and 1 12v globe. I have cleaned all earth points and checked the ballist resistor (working at 4 OHM) I have had another diode put in to help stop high voltage back flow.
I have 2 service manuals for TS and TC 185 I have followed all directions but to no luck it is still blowing globes. I am at a lost at the moment and currently have the bike in the shed with out the seat and wires sticking out every where.:fight1:

 

[pugetbiker81]

voltage problem on ts185

I have a 1974 ts185 and I can't figure out the voltage problem it is having. When I first got it someone had put 2 12v bulbs in for the speedo and tach pilot lights one of which was blackend and finally blew out which seems odd being that the bulb was underpowered. When my headlight is off and I rev bike I get voltage up to 9 volts and it seems to charge my battery fine, even at steady RPM voltage appears to go to 0.00 for a few mili seconds before bouncing back to around 7v but that might just be the resolution of the tool I'm using, what I can't figure out is when I turn on my headlight voltage to battery drops to 0.00 and stays that way, battery voltage seems to quickly drop causing my tail light not to work after a few minutes with headlight on, the headlight bulb is stock and all the lights seem to be working except turn signals which require the headlight off to get enough voltage to function, I just put in a new rectifier and battery, any ideas? I also put my meter on the vreg wires and to ground while reving, I see the numbers change and figure if it is passing some voltage it must be working, if the diode blew it should pass no voltage right? I can't think of a scenrio where it would fail and cause back feeding of current that the diode was supposed to prevent

 

[Easy Rider]

what I can't figure out is when I turn on my headlight voltage to battery drops to 0.00 and stays that way,

You need to start over and measure the voltage AT THE BATTERY under those different conditions.

Just guessing here but the point you have been measuring might go to 0 to enable maximum charging.......which might not be happening.

Charge the battery good and then take some readings at the battery posts.

 

[omegajim]

somehow, by turning on the headlight, you are grounding out the recharging / alternator/ battery.

methinks you are looking at a bad headlight switch - or the wires leading to and away from the switch have the insulation worn through.

my strictly amateur opinion would be to pull the headlight out of the housing and carefully attach the red and black from the battery to the light when the bike is running.

If the additional load of the headlight does not cause the bike to stall, your alternator is good in all likelihood.

What makes me say this?

Your alternator has a rectifier. If one of the diodes in the rectifier is bad (the rectifier contains 4 diodes converting dc to ac) you will only get a bit over half power from your charging system.

Hence, when you hit the lights, it drains the battery down.

or there is a short that involves the headlight switch.

 

[MJM]

The bike will have an ignition coil for the power the the bike. The flywheel generator has two other coils, a charging coil and a lighting coil. The charging coil has a rectifier between it and the battery. The rectifier basically changes the voltage from AC to DC The charging coil charges the battery and the battery provides power to the turn signal flasher, the turn signal lights, the horn, turn indicator light and the brake light. The battery also serves as a voltage regulator for these items. Without the battery in place or with a bad battery, the flasher will blow, the brake light may blow as well as the turn signal bulbs. Most likely won't hurt the horn, it can handle higher voltage.

The lighting coil provides AC voltage to the head light and the tail light, (also the high beam indicator light and neutral indicator light, I think) but at a current too high to operate without a voltage regulator. There is a voltage regulator under the gas tank. The head light can operate on AC or DC, but without the voltage regulator, you'll blow your head light and tail light.

Common problem with the charging coil system is that it will deliver too many amps and overcharge your battery causing it to boil out the acid, dry the battery out, kill the battery and then it won't regulate voltage, and in turn blow your flasher, turn bulbs. Check your ground connections and test the system. You may need a new charging coil if your battery is drying out quickly.

6 Volt voltage regulators new are very expensive for the TS, but you may be able to retrofit another voltage regulator in if it is 6 volts from another bike make.

 

[blue88s2003]

if your bike dont have a regulator,wire one into the alternator.usually the yellow wire.i used one on my bike from a 1979 ts 250.one end grounded,the other end,the gray wire on this unit,wire it into the yellow wire coming out of your stator or alternator if you like to call it that as well.i see one on ebay for a ts 250.