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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
After months of normal riding, my 97 Marauder just refused to start one day. It turns over but won't fire either spark plug. I didn't have a decent multimeter much less a peak-hold meter, so I swapped out the ignitor with a used one, no change. I Checked the output of the signal generator (magnetic pick-up) and no 1.5 V, so I swapped it with a used one, again no change. I had already changed the plugs. So last time I was poking around with it, I noticed that the ignition magnet on the rotor seems to have very little magnetism. Not enough to hold a small box-end wrench, or even offer much resistance when pulling it off it's surface. I got a cheap peak-hold meter and checked the original signal generator that was originally on my bike. By waving a very strong fridge magnet close to the pick-up, I could generate a small voltage on the meter, but it wouldn't trigger on it to see what the max value is. Has anyone every run across issues with the ignition magnet on the rotor becoming too weak to result in a spark? How strong a magnetic flux should it have without checking it with specialized test equipment. For the record, all connections and fuses have been checked, other than the ignition switch and kill switch, there are no interlocks that should affect the output of the pick-up, and the battery is fully charged and healthy.
 

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Welcome to the forum from Oregon.

Not a Marauder expert but for the most part Suzuki has stuck with similar electrical and ignition systems on their cruiser line from what I've seen. So I'm betting it's not that much different than the VL800 or VL1500 I own. If you've double checked the kickstand, clutch, ignition, and kill switches and are positive they are functioning properly I'd be looking at the S/G. Exactly how do you know the used S/G you installed is good? I'd take an impedance reading across the leads and see what resistance it shows. Seems to me on my VL1500 it's something like 270 ohms brand new.

I'm not suggesting they are identical by the way, but I've never heard the magnet being an issue...but lots of S/G's that fail out of the blue. I had one in my VL1500 that started failing after less than 1000 miles in fact. There appears to be 3 types of S/G failures I've seen with them;
- Complete failure out of the blue failing to start the bike (most common)
- Intermittent stalling while going down the road but fires right back up (less common)
- Occasional running on 1 cylinder for a few seconds then comes right back to normal (rare but what happened to me)

All of them eventually fail and how long they last I'm told is the luck of the draw. I was able to buy a new S/G for my VL1500 on ebay for about $20 which has been working fine now for at least 7k miles. But I'd surely not trust a used S/G I didn't pull out of a running bike myself. Just saying...lots of junk yards sell used stuff they have no clue on if it works or not. S/G is one of those things you try and buy new if possible.

Probably not much help but hopefully one of the Marauder guys/gals will jump in with better info'. Best of luck and let us know how it goes.

Larry
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the welcome and feedback Larry. I did ohm out the signal generator and it's 244 ohms, pretty much mid range for a serviceable part according to the service manual. I wish I could be so lucky as to pick up a new rotor as cheaply as you did. Mine new seems to be more in the $600 range, and that may not be a genuine Suzuki part, so you see why I'm reluctant to buy one to find out if that's the problem. Usually a coil either works or doesn't work (open or shorted), so the fact that I can generate a pulse from it at all seems a good sign. I just expected the rotor magnet to provide noticeable pull on something like a small wrench, similar to your average lawnmower. The generator magnets inside the rotor sure do. I can barely notice any pull at all. Going to check out voltages down-stream to see how they compare with the nominal 205 to the coils I'm supposed to be getting. If anyone has an old rotor out there I sure would like to know how strong the magnet is .
 

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Rick's Motorsports carries and manufactures all kinds of S/G's not listed on their site. I know for a fact they make them for my bikes but they don't list them anywhere on there. According to their site they won't exceed $130. If you don't have any luck here I'd sure consider giving them a call and running by them what you've found so far and see what they say. They've been pretty helpful to most of us in the past. I'd be very surprised if they don't make the S/G's for your VZ bike...or that another variance wouldn't work. For example the S/G from a certain Yamaha quad is identical to the one my VL1500 uses...except the wire colors & plug which obviously isn't a big deal.

I'm sure you are right on track where where the problem lay...but my bad coil read perfectly fine as well. It wasn't until it was expected to perform that it wouldn't.

Just another thought.

Best of luck.
Larry
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Thanks for the info Larry. I checked the signal generator I have in my bike again tonight, and the one that was originalrealy in it and they both ohm out within range so I decided to start at the other end and work back.

I checked the voltage to the primary of the coils and got no reading at all. The coil primaries ohm out within tolerance, they're just not getting anything from the ignitor box.
Checked the voltage input at the ignitor and it has its 12 volts +, but the input to the ignitor from the SG reads 0 volts.
The SG ohms out within tolerance as did the original I took out of the bike.
There's nothing between the SG and the ignitor but one connector and a pair of wires which ohm out fine.
Everything seems to point back to the SG. It's just not picking up a signal. I hate to say it but it sure is looking like the rotor magnet is the culprit.

There are new spark plugs in the bike.
Both coils are unlikely to go simultaneously (neither is firing)
Both SCR circuits in the ignitor are unlikely to fail at the same time, but I swapped the ignitor to be sure, and no change.
The wiring between the SG and ignitor is fine
The SG itself ohms out fine as did the original that was in the bike
I've swapped the SG/stator assembly and no change
This is frustrating!
 
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