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I bought my bike a couple months ago from Craigslist paid $1,400 it has now 29k miles. I have replaced all fluids, spark plugs, battery, air filters, gaskets,new exaust and I did a seafoam treatment. The problems are, it acts like it gets clogged up and sounds like it doesn't get fuel for a second like a stutter and this is pretty consistent at 30-40 mph every minute or two and I suspect it also happens at higher speeds but is harder to detect. The bike starts up fine besides a clutch safety switch problem. It will only start in neutral don't pull in clutch but I have to jiggle the clutch handle to get the starter switch to fire. The carbs have not been adjusted the brass caps still on the carbs. Getting allot of backfiring on deceleration right now.
I'd appreciate any advice on how to fix these problems. Thanks. IMG_20200505_113451257.jpg
 

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For starters, put a real muffler back on it.

Straight pipes are obnoxious and ILLEGAL and, yes, that might be causing your running problem too.
It definitely is a factor in the backfiring.......and so is high-flow air filters if you did that.

The only adjustment on modern carbs is for low speed (idle) operation and messing with that probably won't help.

SeaFoam is NOT a good fuel system cleaner.
When you run that out, you might want to try some real cleaner like Berrymans B12 or Gumout.
But it is the mods you made that are very likely the real problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited by Moderator)
For starters, put a real muffler back on it.

Straight pipes are obnoxious and ILLEGAL and, yes, that might be causing your running problem too.
It definitely is a factor in the backfiring.......and so is high-flow air filters if you did that.

The only adjustment on modern carbs is for low speed (idle) operation and messing with that probably won't help.

SeaFoam is NOT a good fuel system cleaner.
When you run that out, you might want to try some real cleaner like Berrymans B12 or Gumout.
But it is the mods you made that are very likely the real problem.
Thanks for your time, the bike operation has not changed since I installed these pipes it's the same as it was. The original owner drilled holes in the baffles. I don't think these are straight pipes don't know what that means.
 

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the clutch lever has a safety switch if the two wires are loose the switch could be shutting the bike off for a second. the switch is designed to prevent the bike from starting in gear with the lever in the open position. try using berrymans b-12 cleaner, popping on decell is caused by a lean condition, a dirty carb can be running lean. check all rubber hoses, and any caps for cracks. you can always take the carbs apart and clean the jets and passages. with a service manual. to eliminate the switch connect the wires together and see if this helps
 

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Thanks for your time, the bike operation has not changed since I installed these pipes it's the same as it was. The original owner drilled holes in the baffles. I don't think these are straight pipes don't know what that means.
Straight pipes means no real muffler.
I am kind of guessing at that based on the picture.
It is LOUD, right ?
 

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bikes are set lean to meet emission standards and they always pop on decell but you can't hear it with the stock muffler.drill out the brass plugs and turn the mixture screws out until the popping go away. start at 1/8th or 1/4 turn
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Yeah it's loud it has a baffle and I have some cans to install when I get the time. I fixed the clutch switch problem thanks for that. I'm going to try the gas treatment next I guess. Think I should adjust the a/f screw but don't know where to look. It's always backfired on deceleration. The manual says I should do a valve adjustment before I sync the carbs but not sure if I can do the adjustment with the engine in the frame? Thanks for your time and help I appreciate it.
 

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I think you are going a bit overboard here.
Carb sync is NOT going to fix your perceived problems.
And likely a valve "adjustment" won't either.
And on a 23 year old bike, I don't think I would bother with either.......certainly not at this point.

If by "cans" you mean slip on mufflers, you should do that FIRST.
And you haven't mentioned the air filter. If it is non-stock you really NEED to put that back to normal.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I replaced the air filters with new ones stock. So all I should do is clean the carbs out and hope for the best? This bike is my daily driver I just want it to run correctly and be dependable which it has so far. I'm not a speeder I like to just cruise. I'm happy with the pipes on it they are emgo I installed them and I do everything myself as I'm just a fella trying to survive. I plan to keep this bike for the remainder of my life so I want to take good care of it. Thanks for your help.
 

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That popping seems to be a normal thing with these Suzuki's. Cleaning the carbs is a major job , the front and rear are totaly diferent . If you do go that route Identify each cable with different color nail polish and take a picture before starting . Also put a Dyno Jet stage 2 kit , very good instructions come with the kit .! I'v had mine for about 10 years with a sidecar and only minor problems . There is a relay in the starter circuit , see utube for fix . Berrymans and Marvel Mystery oil with every fillup , 2 oz. makes every thing go smoother and keeps the fuel system working longer between overhauls . Also the air injection system can be removed without any adverse effects . Happy Riding .
 

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Thanks for your time, the bike operation has not changed since I installed these pipes it's the same as it was. The original owner drilled holes in the baffles. I don't think these are straight pipes don't know what that means.
My understanding of the situation is that changing the air filter can do more damage to a properly running engine than mufflers, except straight or drag pipes. Little can be done to the 800 to improve performance, so leave it stock, or return it to stock.
 

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Well it's really not you can't make changes that will improve performance some with almost any stock street machine but it needs to be done completely and properly. A half assed job just "bolting on" a new part or two likely will do more harm than good.
The best way to get more horsepower from your bike is to trade it in for one designed with more power......and then don't F with it.
 
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