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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
98 katana turns over but wont start but will start when i push start it. my brother had drop it at 30 mph on the right side i had to replace the cover that goes over the signal generator. after i replaced the cover it would trun over but not start so i pushed it and it started right up it and stay running no problems after its push start i have being riding it this way for the past 9 months and would like to not have to push it anymore. please help me with this problem i now have to use my bike to go to work and on cold days its hard to get it started have to push it sometimes 7 to 8 times to get it started. were should i start to look for this problem.
 

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98 katana turns over but wont start but will start when i push start it.
Welcome to the fourm.
My guess is that you need a new battery.......and then a charging system test.
New plugs wouldn't hurt either if it's been a while.

If you have a battery charger, try leaving it connected overnight once.
If it starts right up the next morning, that pretty much proves that you have an electrical problem.

Are you using the choke when trying to start it cold ??
 

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My first suspect would be the battery as well,try cleaning the battery posts and cables real well and a little time on a charger before you buy a battery though.
If it was dumped check the fluid level of the battery if it's not a sealed or gel cell type.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Welcome to the fourm.
My guess is that you need a new battery.......and then a charging system test.
New plugs wouldn't hurt either if it's been a while.

If you have a battery charger, try leaving it connected overnight once.
If it starts right up the next morning, that pretty much proves that you have an electrical problem.

Are you using the choke when trying to start it cold ??
new battery and i charged it up before i tried to start it. even used a charger that can jump start it. truned over even faster then normal. after i push start it it runs fine just wont start with the start button.
 

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even used a charger that can jump start it. truned over even faster then normal.
after i push start it it runs fine just wont start with the start button.
OK, you need to pay close attention to the details here..................

Unless you have some wierd electrical wiring problem related to the start switch or solenoid......or to a weak/flaky ignition module............
Starting proceedure is VERY important.

You need to have the choke applied (ON) and the throttle closed (at idle). Most work better with the choke about 80% and not on all the way.
DO NOT TOUCH THE THROTTLE UNTIL YOU HEAR IT FIRE UP.

IF you do those two things correctly and it still won't start when it's turning over plenty fast, then it's likely that you have "a small but impossible to find by exchanging test messages" electrical problem that you will need a local mechanic to help you find.
 

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I agree completely with EZ. if the bike turns over but does not fire when you hit the button, but runs fine if you bump start it, then chances are the problem is with your starting procedure, The problem may be user error, or if you are using the same starting procedure as before then something has changed on the bike as a result of the wreck or the DIY repair, so your starting procedure no longer works. Could be an oddball electrical issue, or a choke cable disturbed causing the choke to not richen the mixture enough, or a carb with a little air leak causing you to need more choke than before, and air filter cover losse or cracked- if the bike ran fine before it was wrecked and then worked on by you, then clearly you need to track down the problem and correct it. The fact that the bike runs fine means the problem is probably minor, and as EZ says you may be able to simply change your starting procedure to overcome it. But a 30 MPH impact with the pavement is not exactly minor, so a visit to the mechanic is probably your best bet.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
thanks for the help

I agree completely with EZ. if the bike turns over but does not fire when you hit the button, but runs fine if you bump start it, then chances are the problem is with your starting procedure, The problem may be user error, or if you are using the same starting procedure as before then something has changed on the bike as a result of the wreck or the DIY repair, so your starting procedure no longer works. Could be an oddball electrical issue, or a choke cable disturbed causing the choke to not richen the mixture enough, or a carb with a little air leak causing you to need more choke than before, and air filter cover losse or cracked- if the bike ran fine before it was wrecked and then worked on by you, then clearly you need to track down the problem and correct it. The fact that the bike runs fine means the problem is probably minor, and as EZ says you may be able to simply change your starting procedure to overcome it. But a 30 MPH impact with the pavement is not exactly minor, so a visit to the mechanic is probably your best bet.
thanks for the help. i got a new battery pulled the plugs and all look good,so i cleaned them up mad sure that the choke was working right checked the ohms on the coils and the ohms resistance was good, and its still doing the same them turns over but wont start and starts when i push it, so it you or anyone that mite know where to look next please and thank for all the help everyone.
 

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turns over but wont start and starts when i push it, so it you or anyone that mite know where to look next
What you didn't mention was what you are doing with the throttle when trying to start it.
Beyond that, like I (we) said, you may need a shop to take a look at it.
It might help to see if the plugs are actually sparking when it won't start......but I strongly suspect that they ARE.
And even if they are NOT, what would you do next ??
Some situations just can't be addressed by remote control.
 

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Looks like the guy on the other forum had a bad crank sensor, which qualifies as one of those "small but impossible to find by exchanging test messages electrical problems" EZ referenced above. It would also qualify as one of those "result of the wreck or the DIY repair" I referenced above, as it resides behind the cover that hit the pavement at 30 MPH and was removed and replaced at home. So it might not be a bad place to start. BUT this is a $140 part, and falling into the classic amateur mistake of simply swapping parts until the problem goes away can get expensive- and you might swap every single part on the bike only to find that it is a bad connection somewhere, or the enricher circuit in a carb is fouled, or the carbs are out of sync, or an enricher is not working right on one of the carbs or...
Ultimately it is often cheaper to take it to a mechanic, who has the know-how and equipment to find the bad part or connection before you spend hundreds on parts you don't need to replace. Your bike, your call.
 

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my brother had drop it at 30 mph on the right side i had to replace the cover that goes over the signal generator. after i replaced the cover it would trun over but not start



were should i start to look for this problem.
If it has no spark while cranking, and passably no fuel if it is an EFI system, everything I have read about this leads to the crank sensor.(Pulse generator, signal generator, crank sensor, crank angle sensor, crank position sensor, etc.)

With that being said there are some good points above about taking it to a shop. If it were me I would take it apart, make damn sure it is put together to proper specs and give it a try. If there wasn't any visible damage to the unit from the wreck and it still didn't work I would at least talk to a shop mechanic before I got a new one and installed it.

What ever you do keep us informed. During my search on the subject I found two dead end threads on this subject on this site, one of them was a Katana also. Good luck.:bluethum:
 
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