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this has been an internet debate for a loooooooooong time. Talk to 10 different mechs and you get atleast 4 different personal views of how to break an engine in for the best. Ranks right up there with what oil is best.
 

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While I don't believe his "dramatic horsepower increase" claims, I see nothing wrong with the method. He really only varies from factory methods by ignoring the rpm limits set by the manufacturers. Otherwise, both suggest you vary the rpms and do occasional hard acceleration.
 

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whoops!

Hate to say it, but it is very true, but may not hold true for every brand or every bike. You could always wind up with that one bike that was the last on the assembly line on the last day of the week when everyone was concerned with one thing, getting home for the weekend. Dodge, Ford, and Chevy have had problems with this for years.
My 2002 gixxer 750 had a "race break in". It most definately has more power than any other 750 I've ridden of that year with the same mileage. However, I do recall that part of the reason that Yamaha's #1 cylinder issue in 1999 was discovered was thanks to a racer that "broke in" 3 engines and all 3 blew the #1 cylinder, thus leading to Yamaha testing and recalling a lot of engines because of a bearing that wasn't tightened at the factory.
Almost forgot, my 1999 Honda CBR RRX Euro had a somewhat hard break in up in Canada. The funny thing was with 10,000 miles on the odo it would still outrun most stock 954s and give a liter bike a hell of a run for it's money when it should have quickly faded away with the technology today.
Simple answer to the equasion is: if it voids part of your warranty don't do it. If you know someone at a dealer that wouldn't turn you in for abuse of that vehicle, then take your chances as you may.
 

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fireblade1 said:
Simple answer to the equasion is: if it voids part of your warranty don't do it. If you know someone at a dealer that wouldn't turn you in for abuse of that vehicle, then take your chances as you may.
That's the key. If you take the chance be sure you can get it repaired if it fails. Better be able to convince"everyone" it's not your fault.

A friend went through this scenario with an SV. Suzuki flew in Factory Reps, it went to court, he won, but still lost a lot of time and money. They pretty much paid him just above wholesale for the bike.

So is it worth it? Not to me. I'd rather ride than sit in court on and off for 2 years. :roll:
 

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GixxStunna said:
who really cares, anyone who buys a brand new bike gets the factory warranty on the engine,
Well, that statement is clearly reflected in your avatar and username. The fact is most of us plan to have a rideable bike longer than the warranty period. That may be hard to fathom, but some of us won't be stunting our bikes into wrinkled little balls before then, and engine longevity is a prime concern.
:roll:

Also, it's one of these ".", not one of these ",".
 

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I'm quite sure they do. It's too risky to allow new owners to beat the snot outta their bikes, since they really have no control over how it's done. They want you to play it safe so if it's done wrong they're not liable for engine damage.
 

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I get what you're saying. I didn't think of it that way. It just seems to me that if there is a way to prolong engine life or get more hp, they would be all for it. Who knows, maybe it your bike doesn't last as long, you have to buy a new one from them...:sad:
 

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RowdyRed94 said:
I'm quite sure they do. It's too risky to allow new owners to beat the snot outta their bikes, since they really have no control over how it's done. They want you to play it safe so if it's done wrong they're not liable for engine damage.
Obviously not because Suzuki makes a rear oil pick up on their sportbikes which would only be good for one thing.... WHEELIES. Also Suzukis warranty covers any engine part as long as it's not cosmetic.
 

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id like to believe that this mototune article speaks the truth. it does make sense when you think about it. but if you are going to take one method versus the other, it seems that the manufacturers arent dumb and give you the breakin period specs for a reason.

id rather err on the side of caution, just in case.

if there are people on here following the more aggressive method and not having problems, then maybe id be willing to believe it a little more
 
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