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Again, read the thread. The metal plate you are showing is mentioned several times. Good luck on your new drive but I think your old one would have been fine after you got it cleaned up.
I apologize ahead of time, I'm gonna sound like a dick for a second. Since I can't remember everything in this thread, which I've read now a couple times, I use the search function like a normal person. I searched for "bearing" and "gasket', before adding this question, and couldn't find anyone talking about this plate.

Edit: After searching some more, I did find a couple references to it being called a "stopper" plate. Sounds like some liquid gasket is in order.
 

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Is there any reference to it in the manual? My knee-jerk reaction is to coat it in some black gasket maker too, but I'd reference the manual first.
 

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Is there any reference to it in the manual? My knee-jerk reaction is to coat it in some black gasket maker too, but I'd reference the manual first.
No it just says, "install the stopper plate" where it talks about reassembling the final gear case. Couldn't find any mention of any type of gasket maker or anything. But after searching a bit here, I did find someone who said they put that on. Not sure if I should or not, but it would seem to make sense that that is the entry point of the water.
 

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So just a little update, I got the drive shaft that I ordered in yesterday. I was pleased to find out it was as clean on the inside as the pictures showed on the outside. I took the seal off, and there was grease inside, and no rust. Not much grease mind you, but it was there and it looked good. It looked like there might have been a little water that got in, and some of the grease was a bit of an orange color, so there probalby was a little oxidization starting, but overall, very pleased with the part.

I added grease to both ends, and replaced the seal. As for the RTV gasket on the stopper plate, I found as I was cleaning up the drive shaft housing, getting ready to put it all back together that there was definitely remnants of a silicone based gasket there. So I took some time to scrape off all the old stuff, then reapplied a new layer of RTV silicone gasket to both sides of the stopper plate.

I put it all together, put in some fresh gear oil and took it out for a quick test ride around the block a few times. Other than having a bit of a rough time starting cause I hadn't started it in a month or so during this freezing winter, everything is good.

I don't care if someone thinks that rusted excuse for a final drive would have been fine or not, the piece of mind I feel having a known good one in there, with no rust and fresh grease is WELL worth the $170 I paid for it. There are people on this board that paid upwards of $400 just to have a mechanic pop theirs off, apply some grease, and put it back on. So I feel very good with this decision.

A couple of interesting notes. I took the fake swing arm off to make it easier to get the drive shaft out, but had a hell of a time getting those two bolts that hold the swing arm to the frame to go in straight. They would go in, but looked crooked to me, so I was afraid I was stipping the bolts. Eventually, I decided it was all in my head and just torqued them down tight, and I think they're ok, but was confused for a bit. Also, I decided to change the gear oil, and it's a good thing I did, because when I took the drain bolt off, VERY little oil dripped out. Like there was really no stream of oil. Mostly just dripped out for a second, then stopped. The magnet bolt had the regular small film of metal shavings on it, nothing to worry about. So I put the drain bolt back on and filled it back up to the top fill hole with new oil. Glad I checked that, as it seems there wasn't much oil left in there.

Other than that, it wasn't too bad. Now that I'm comfortable with doing that, I'll do it every other season or so to make sure everything is looking good. Thanks for getting involved with this old thread again for a bit to help me out. I could upload pics of the new drive I got, but we've seen enough of them on here, I figure you all know what a clean one looks like.
 

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Glad you got a good deal and can ride with peace of mind!
 

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THANK YOU !!!! I bought a used 2007 M50 about 3 months ago and then found this forum ... and your warning / alert. I had mine fixed --- and glad I did. It was almost dry --- but not yet and there was no sign of wear. You saved me a lot of problems and money!

My bike only had 3,400 miles on it, but the OEM tires had small cracks. So, when my independent bike shop replaced the tires, I had them check it out. (I took the photos you had posted and the seal (which you said would need to be replaced.) It was a simple, easy repair while having the tires replaced. BUT, I would have never had it done if you hadn't posted this.

thanks again....
 

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Wish I would have taken your advice a couple of years ago and checked this and fixed it then. Now it is costing me over $200 in part and 2 weeks of no riding. YIKES!!!!! Note that it affects bikes later than 2006. Mine is a 2008 with 27,000 miles on it. Heed the warning and check yours NOW!!!!!
 

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I just got done tearing down my 09 C50 with 16K miles. Shaft was rusted solid and the rust filled the swing arm tube. I wish I had known ahead of time this issue, it was not hard to pull it apart. I will have to think twice about buying another Suzuki due to how they have handled this. That is not a normal maintenance item. Prior to it failing I would sing the C50's praises. Not any longer.
 

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Yeah mine was pretty much the same. I found a sweet deal on an entire drive shaft assembly on ebay for $170 and just replaced the whole thing. (even though some folks here gave me crap for not reusing my rusted peace of crap) No rust in site on the new one. I made sure to pop the seal on the new one (since I had already bought a replacement seal anyeay) and lubed it up real good before replacing it. I still love the bike but I'm with you, Suzuki really did a poor job on this one.
 

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Discussion Starter #392
Everyone needs to call the suzuki headquarters phone number and tell them you have a problem. I have called maybe 10 times..each time they say there are not many reports of this "isolated issue".
-CS
 

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Everyone needs to call the suzuki headquarters phone number and tell them you have a problem. I have called maybe 10 times..each time they say there are not many reports of this "isolated issue".
-CS
Where is Wing Commander Dolittle when we need him? These Japs need a bomb under them!!
 

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Got paranoid, checked today (finally), rustfree and had a little lube in there, repacked with high temp bearing grease and new seal.

2007 M50 @ 9600ish miles (only about 50 of them in the rain).

The peace of mind (and experience) alone is worth the effort; hope others do this and turns out for the best.
 

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Hi, I bought a 2007 Suzuki M50 May 30th 2014. I found this forum and saw this thread and checked mine shortly after I bought it. I was happy to see that it was in perfect condition and no issue. I lubed it up with moly paste, put on a new seal and went for a ride. I am the third owner. I didn't get much maintenance information from the previous owner. The bike has 9,945 miles on it. I wanted to thank burnchassis for his detailed videos and posts. Without them I would not have been as confident to take the drive shaft apart and inspect it. I find this forum very helpful!
 

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If you ever ride your M in the rain then definitely check it out. When I had mine I rode no matter what the weather and that usually meant in the rain. Mine was not bad but it was not good, pics are somewhere in this thread.
 
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