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No trouble with mine...a 2006 with 30k on it.
What you see is brown grease....no water found.
I could use the seal again. it was only a bit damaged.
It feels good to know it is okay.
Put some extra grease in it...just for sure..
 

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hi @all,

really glad I found this ..... I'm currently looking into buying a new C50, does this issues also affect the 2014-2016 models?

I almost assume yes, since there hasn't been much of an design change since this bike was first introduced into the market - except for the switch to electronic fuel injection from the old carburetors.....

I plan on using this grease, first of all because it looks like it's up to the job - and secondly: I already have it at home : edit: can't post links yet: I plan on using Lear Chemical Research Corporation's Corrosion Block Grease


Thanks!
 

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I don't think the corrosion block has moly in it, but according to their website it is usable in our application field - they even show a picture of shaft parts on their website ..... But then on the other hand better play safe and use something that has been proven effective by M50/C50 owners ....
 

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I'm already planning on doing this maintenance mod and I'm currently looking for parts to order.

Based on this parts diagram:











I would order:
number 38, 39, 40

And the points to grease are number: 35 and both ends of the shaft (number 37). What about greasing part number 2?


Thanks!
 

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This plan might be overkill.

If you catch it soon enough you will NOT need to replace any parts.
An inspection should be done first.
 

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I'm not really planning on replacing parts, I bought a brand new C50. It's just preventative maintenance, therefore I need a new gasket as I think the old one could be ripped trying to get it out. This small spring is also a good item to have, in case that small part gets lost. Same goes for the snapring, both snapring and spring are relatively cheap - therefore I'm ordering them too to save on shipping. Other than that it's just greasing. But is it enough to grease part number 35 and both ends of 37, or do I need to grease part number 2 also?
 

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I bought a brand new C50.
OK so I think you should go back and read the threads about this a little closer.

IIRC, this was a factory error and it only affected two or three model years.....or less.

You are definitely being a bit paranoid about this with a brand new machine.
Sometimes "fixing" things that don't need to be fixed is a BAD idea.
 

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OK so I think you should go back and read the threads about this a little closer. IIRC, this was a factory error and it only affected two or three model years.....or less. You are definitely being a bit paranoid about this with a brand new machine. Sometimes "fixing" things that don't need to be fixed is a BAD idea.
That's definetly interesting to read. I've read both versions now, on the one hand I've heard that issue affects all of the C50/M50 across every year, on the other hand I've read that it only affects the earlyer M50's and somwhere in 2008 oder 2009 the M50 got overhauled and Suzuki redesigned hundred's of parts - therefore newer ones aren't affected. I can't recall where I've read the second statement of the redesigned parts, possibly right here. Now, if I take a look online in the parts catalogue, my 2015 C50 is essentially a K6 Model, built since 2007 - so possibly still affected? Now let's assume my new C50 is not affected, should I still apply liquid gasket to the metal gasket to seal out moisture?
 

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I recently did some research on a 2002-2006 Rang Rover III (L322). Interestingly, I found out that this particular Range Rover seems from 2002 to 2005 has serious issues with the shaft drive, particularly on the front end side coming out of the differential.

These 2 links might be interesting:
Front Differential Failure (Range Rover Mk III)
Front Differential Recall (Range Rover Mk III)

The first link shows the old setup that's known to cause issues. Now, to me it looks very similar to the setup our C50 uses on the rear end of the shaft drive. The thing in common is the kind of fixed, non flexible coupling at the rear end of our driveshafts. (Front end of the Range Rover III)

This leads me to think that the missing grease isn't the main cause of the driveshaft problem, it might contribute to an slightly earlier failure, but possibly it's not the main issue. Unfortunately that would also mean that greasing isn't the ultimate solution....

I'm not a mechanic or engineer, but the C50 driveshaft just came to my mind whilst researching on the Range Rover and the common driveshaft issue found on the Range Rover reminded me on the failures of some of the C50 driveshaft failures.

Another driveshaft motorcycle comes to my mind, the BMW GS series - everyone of those I have seen appear to have an flexible rear end coupling - unlike our C50's.

The Range Rover article also mentions misalignment - I think about suspension settings on our C50. The rear shock comes set on factory setting 4, the range is 1 to 7. I want my suspension softer than on setting 4 since I get some heavy shocks in my back when driving over potholes. Now my thinking was that possibly setting 1 (softest) in comparison to setting 7 (hardest) would allow much more up and down movement of the driveshaft and therefore more or less wear - If I think correctly.

edit: I think I'm on the wrong train with the suspension setting, since the rear end of the shaft is attached to the wheel - so more up and down movement would only affect the engine side connection...


What do you think?
 

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The suspension setting only affects the centering of the shock with your weight on the bike.
It does little or nothing to change the actual spring rate or overall movement.
 

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So I read the whole thread.
In my opinion, your wheel isn't going to lock up. The spline at the end of the shaft has nothing to do with the ring and pinion. Metal from the spline will never reach the ring and pinion. They are in two different locations.
I took mine apart and found rust in the tube. I grabbed the shaft, torqued it both ways while moving it in and out. I found no play and no step from wear. I didn't have a seal so I didn't remove it and grease it. I felt the spline had enough grease.
I decided to put a drain plug in. I drilled and tapped for a 10-32 screw. I put the screw at the lowest point possible. I used a stainless bolt and put thread sealer on it. Before tapping I had to make a counter bore with a Dremel.
Now when I need to, I can drain it.
 

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2005 M50 with 14K miles. new to me about a month ago. Been hearing a "scrubbing" sound from the rear wheel area which seemed to be once per rear wheel revolution. Also noticed it when backing the bike out of the garage (not running).
Ordered the shaft seal and took it apart last night. When I removed the 3 cap nuts from the rear end I got a little of what smelled like gear lube leaking out. I removed the old seal but couldn't find my snap ring pliers so didn't remove the shaft. Drive shaft looked like new and there was some kind of grease on the drive end splines. I added some more lithium moly and put the new seal on. Greased the wheel bearings and right angle drive to wheel gears and reassembled everything. Scrubbing sound is gone and drive seems smoother all around.
 

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2008 with 52,000 km and mine just went. Almost no time riding in wet conditions. Lots of rust dust when disassembled and most of the splines gone much like the photos posted early on. I had asked the dealer to check this during a tire change a few years back and they said don't believe everything you read on the internet. I wish I had been more adamant.

Loss of power to the drive and the metal in the dishwasher noise. Coasted to the side of the road.
 

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2008 with 52,000 km and mine just went. Almost no time riding in wet conditions. Lots of rust dust when disassembled and most of the splines gone much like the photos posted early on. I had asked the dealer to check this during a tire change a few years back and they said don't believe everything you read on the internet. I wish I had been more adamant.

Loss of power to the drive and the metal in the dishwasher noise. Coasted to the side of the road.
Man some techs think they know everything. Glad you weren't hurt and got to the side of the road safely! Go back and give that guy a peice of your mind.
 

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Thanks for the comment paqman. I was lucky I was on a quite backroad with no traffic...could be different outcome if this happened on a busy fast highway.

I have the receipt that shows I had asked for this issue to be checked. I will be going to the dealer today to order parts and see if they will help with the cost.
 

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Thanks for the comment paqman. I was lucky I was on a quite backroad with no traffic...could be different outcome if this happened on a busy fast highway.

I have the receipt that shows I had asked for this issue to be checked. I will be going to the dealer today to order parts and see if they will help with the cost.
Cool, let us know how it goes.
 

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I will be going to the dealer today to order parts and see if they will help with the cost.
No harm in asking. But how long ago WAS that ?
Maybe they DID check it but didn't add any lube.......and it ran dry from use.
 
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