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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Okay, a little background:

About a year ago, a colleague bought his first bike, a 2007 Suzuki Boulevard C90. This proved a little much bike for him as he launced it into a juniper bush while learing how to operate it in first gear in a parking lot. Consequently, it didn't want to start and he didn't really want to start it anyway, so he asked me if I wanted to buy it cheap.
I can never resist the phrase "buy it cheap."

Anyway, after leaving it alone for months, I ran through it and found that all it needed was a handful of fuses, a sidestand switch, and some cosmetics. However, shortly after I replaced the sidesttand switch the replacement (bought used off Ebay) died. So I bought a brand new one to the tune of $90, and that fixed it—but then that one burned out, too.

I'm checking these switches for continuity before and after.

The bike still runs like a champ if I jump the solenoid connection. Nothing else seems faulty.

Does anyone have any insights about what would cause this? Is it excessive voltage and, if so, should I be shopping for a new R/R?

Thanks in advance for any advice.
 

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The bike still runs like a champ if I jump the solenoid connection. Nothing else seems faulty.

Does anyone have any insights about what would cause this? Is it excessive voltage and, if so, should I be shopping for a new R/R?

Thanks in advance for any advice.
First, the sidestand safety should NOT prevent it from starting, it should only come into play when the transmission is shifted out of neutral.......so jumping the solenoid should not be a factor if it fails.......in most designs that is.

I think I would be looking at the sidestand itself to see if it is loose and vibrating AND if it is using the switch as a "stop" also. It should bump up against something else for a stop and just push the switch plunger.

And......you should not be guessing at voltage problems and replacing parts.
The voltage can be tested.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
It's my understanding that, since the switch operates in a binary (open/closed) way, testing continuity makes more sense than testing voltage. As I stated, the replacemant units tested out good for continuity (no continuity when the plunger was out, continuity when the plunger is in) before installation, then the bike started up with the start switch, then the bike stopped starting with the start switch, then the sidestand switch no longer read for continuity.

Am I missing something that would make testing for voltage a better idea than testing ohms?

Thanks,

Buzz
 

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Am I missing something that would make testing for voltage a better idea than testing ohms?
You asked about excess voltage.

But no what you are doing should be OK......EXCEPT the part about not starting BECAUSE of the sidestand switch.
I have never had a bike that would NOT start with it down.....IF the transmission is in Neutral. Some also require pulling in the clutch.

And to repeat: The switch assembly is NOT supposed to also be the "stop" for the sidestand when it comes up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
It sounds like I've got some detactive work to do. It's kind of a challenge since most of that detective work should happen with the kickstand up, the bike doesn't have a center stand, and it weighs a metric crap-ton.
This might be the excuse I've been needing to buy a bike jack.

I'll post whatever I figure out.
 
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