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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 1986 Suzuki Cavalcade I rescued from a barn the bike was purchased new by my stepfather in 1986 he road it for 12,000 miles and parked it for 16 years. I have rebuilt all the brake cylinders, carbs,master cylinders and most of the electrical items(switches..etc..). So far everything is great but the clutch I have used approx 4 gallons of dot 4 trying to bled this monster and still it isnt right. The master cylinder, slave cylinder have both been rebuilt. The problem is after about 4 miles of riding the clutch starts to slip ...go much further and there is no clutch at all, but if you pull over and open the bleeder on the slave cylinder you are good to go for about 4 more miles. I have reverse bleed standard bled gravity bled and vacum bled this system still its not workin not working. I have replaced the clutch itself also, new plates springs and spacers. any help would be great !! Thanks for reading my headache lol.
 

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I think you are on the wrong track. Usually air in the hydraulic clutch system will make it so the clutch will not disengage when you pull in the lever, not cause it to slip. I think that you pulling over and messing with the bleeder is really just letting the clutch cool down a bit, stopping the slipping for a little bit until it heats up again. But just in case, often bleeding at the bango bolt at the master cylinder will allow trapped air to escape.

What clutch springs did you use? The stock ones are notoriously weak, so Barnetts are better, but unless you have the original springs in there that should not be the problem. What oil did you put in the bike? Non-motorcycle specific synthetics, conventional oils marked "friction modifiers", and oils marked "fuel saving" often contain additives that will cause the wet clutch on a Suzuki to slip when the motor gets hot. If you used a car synthetic, or an oil that may have had the friction modifiers in it, try removing the oil drain plug and letting it drain until every drop is out. Then put the drain plug back and add some Marvel Mystery oil, letting it sit overnight to help clean the clutch plates. Then drain the MMO out and put in some motorcycle-specific non-synthetic oil and see if the problem is gone.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I did replace the clutch springs with barnett's . But you might be right on the oil I used standard pennzoil 10w 40 I never gave it a thought that the clutch is an oil bath :eek:oops: I will try the MMO bath and see if that helps. Thanks for the suggestion :bluethum:
 

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I do not make oil recommendations, other than to avoid friction modifiers, fuel saving oils, and car synthetics. I think semi-synthetics are a total rip, as they can contain as little as 3% synthetic. I firmly believe that the brand and type is irrelivant (as long as you avoid those additives that booger up the clutch) as long as you change it regularly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Ok will see what I can find the oil makes sense and is about the only thing left it could be. I appreciate your taking the time to answer my question.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
UPDATE !!!!
DrBob I followed your instructions replaced the pennzoil with suzuki 10w-40 and took the bike for a short ride . clutch still slipped but not as bad ...so i let it sit for an hour or to and gave it another try for the first mile or to it slipped a little but after that it was perfect. I put 200 miles on the bike today with a BIG smile on my face just wanted to say thanks for pointing out the obvious. Your advice has ended a 6 month hair pulling session !!!! Thanks again
 

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Glad to help! Funny how a simple thing like reaching for the wrong oil can cause a world of hurt on a wet clutch...
 

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cavalcade clutch

i have tryed these steps but i got less likeable results maybe my problem is differant because i had slipage problems so i had the clutch replaces thinking it was bad but still had problems i was discouraged because this bike was a family bike that i wanted to pass on so i let the bike sit for the whole winter and most if the summer now i have no clutch action at all the handle pulles very easy with no resistance i have bled it so many times and still nothing i used suzuki 1040 oil also but i cant for the life of me find any DOT4 anywhere would using DOT3 cause my problem??? pulling my hair out also :-/
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i have bled it so many times and still nothing i used suzuki 1040 oil also but i cant for the life of me find any DOT4 anywhere would using DOT3 cause my problem???
Often amateur mechanics are their own worst enemy.
This is a perfect example.
Anyone who puts 10W40 MOTOR OIL in their clutch should not be doing ANYTHING to the bike.

Now you need to take it to a shop and probably have the entire hydralic part of the clutch replaced: Master cylinder, slave and all the hoses and fittings......as it will be almost impossible to get that oil contamination out.
Brake fluid is NOT oil.

If you would READ what it says on the brake fluid bottles, most say DOT3/DOT4.
DOT 4 fluid certainly is not hard to find.

If you are going to continue to post messages here PLEASE format them just a little bit so they are easier to read.
 

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Never said i was a pro at this it happends to be my first bike and i came here to get advice not to be belittled by a "know-it-all" update i probly will not post here anymore im sure there is many places where i will get real help and not be belittled by know it all fools that think they are so much better than someone just starting out btw i never said i put motor oil in the slave cylinder or the master cylinder
 

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Also it was sent to the suzuki shop to have the clutch put in and all i got was a bill for $600 and a bike that worked for less than a week maybe if these mechanics were not such crooks i would not have to come here for advice :)
 

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Wow. First post and you get into a slap fight with Easy Rider.

@cavalcade1986 - a lot depends upon your skills and experience working on motorcycles. If you are new to "wrenching", you should probably leave the really tough stuff (gearbox and brakes) to the professionals until you understand how these things work. You can learn the basics (doing basic maintenance and cosmetic mods) fairly quickly, but when it gets into the guts of the machine, you need to have some good experience and good nerves. (I don't have much experience or a really good workshop, so I leave the tough stuff to the pros).

@ER - Dude, please tone it down a notch or two. The old timers here know you and your way of expressing yourself, but please try to be a bit friendlier when dealing with newbies. If you scare off all of the FNGs, this forum is going to slowly die. KTHX.
 

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Also it was sent to the suzuki shop to have the clutch put in and all i got was a bill for $600 and a bike that worked for less than a week
Maybe you should have taken it back to them and insist that they FIX it right.
Did that ever occur to you ??

Sorry about the misunderstanding about the oil.....but they way you worded it made it sound like you couldn't find DOT 4 so you used 10W40.
 

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i have tryed these steps but i got less likeable results maybe my problem is differant because i had slipage problems so i had the clutch replaces thinking it was bad but still had problems i was discouraged because this bike was a family bike that i wanted to pass on so i let the bike sit for the whole winter and most if the summer now i have no clutch action at all the handle pulles very easy with no resistance i have bled it so many times and still nothing i used suzuki 1040 oil also but i cant for the life of me find any DOT4 anywhere would using DOT3 cause my problem??? pulling my hair out also :-/
View attachment 27766
Bleed the master cylinder and banjo bolt like this:

http://www.bobhenneman.info/bleed.htm


The instructions are for an Intruder, but same idea. Scroll down to the bottom and read the part about bleeding the banjo bolt.
 
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