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I have a 97 Suzuki Marauder vz800. I started the bike it ran for two seconds and immediately shut off after that the engine turns but it just will not start. I have replaced the ignition coils, plug wires, boots and plugs. Still the engine will not start any suggestions.
 

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Check for spark at the plugs...what condition are the plugs... if they are dry then the fuel supply must be suspect. Maybe check the side stand safety switch and clutch switch , although the motor shouldnt turn over if they are working properly. I would be pulling the plugs and shorting them to ground to check spark. Another possible problem may be blocked filters etc....esp if the bike has sat for some time. A motor will run as long as three things are present....spark, fuel, and air. It may not run well due to other things...such as low compression but as long as the three things are present it will run.

Maybe pop the fuel cap while trying to start it to check for fuel tank vacuum. You can pop the fuel line off the tank end to check fuel delivery...possible faults here may be the fuel pump...you should hear it prime when the ignitin is truned on.

Good luck
 

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I know with cars you can hear the fuel pump run as soon as you turn on the key. Even though this is a carbureted bike would I still be able to feel the fuel pump run if I put my hand on it and turn the ignition on or even bump starter. Because I did try that and I felt and heard nothing.
 

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carburators have a drain screw, usually there pretty tight. loosen it and see if fuel drains if it does you will know fuel is getting to the carb
 

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carburators have a drain screw, usually there pretty tight. loosen it and see if fuel drains if it does you will know fuel is getting to the carb
Also give it a little shot of starting fluid.....or propane.....in the intake.
If that makes it pop and try to run a little bit, then you know you have some kind of fuel delivery problem.

I hope you didn't really replace all of that stuff without actually testing for spark.......did you ??
 

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You may find the bike doesnt have a fuel pump since it is carbureted and simply relies on a gravity feed. If this is the case a fuel valve will be under the tank and is most often run by vacuum from the engine. A line from a nipple on the intake or one of the carbs to the rear of the valve is used and must be in working order for the valve to open and allow the fuel to flow.

The valve will also have a prime position and you can use this setting to check if the sytem is working or not. Do not leave it on prime as it may overcome the float mechanism and allow fuel to either overflow from the carbs or worst case contaminate your oil.
 

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my carbed bike has a fuel pump.... and yours does too. But i would check the plugs. as easy rider said you can see if its a fuel or spark related. has the bike been sitting? have you been riding it lots and this just happened out of the blue? A bit of backstory on it might help us diagnose your problem. does it sound normal when it spins over? (has compression) it could be a number of things. the fuel pump should prime, but they dont whurrr. they pulse. hard to explain the sound.. it could be the pump, a fuse, bad wire, bad switch, clogged fuel filter...
 

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Who was that comment supposed to apply to ??
Not ALL carb'ed bikes have fuel pumps.
Go back 25 years and most of them did not.
the comment was for the op. and you are correct, not all of them did. But his bike does have a fuel pump. . Kawasaki part # 49040-1063 for the factory pump. Hope this helps brian.
 

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Right so since it has a fuel pump it should make some sort of noise as it primes. If no noise is heard then the pump or a filter inside of it has got to be suspect...as mentioned a quick plug removal will tell if its spark or fuel related. Even a fuel pump will not pull against a vacuum so the tank vent may be an issue too...easy to check pop the fuel cap open to see if it will run.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I have taken both What spark plugs out and smelled them and they both smell like fuel so I have to assume that I'm getting fuel. I took one of the plugs out and put it in the boot and ground it to the engine and bumped the starter a few times and there was no spark from either plug. Both coils have two wires leading to them a black wire and a black wire with a stripe. I put a multimeter lead on the solid black wire and the other lead to the engine for ground. The Wire tested at 10.2 volts or I should say the black wire leading to either coil tested the same. So now my question is would my problem be the rectifier, would that affect this or is it the IC ignitor.
 

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ok. i would start by charging your battery. while its charging test your coil.
 

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pull the spark plug & check for spark if no spark ck the interlock switches if all ok ck the pick up coil if ok than the ing switch is could be dirty last item is the ing module & if its bad use the Factory part NOT a after market one
 

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If a plug is not wet then it is not getting fuel...just smeling like fuel would, imo, not be sufficient. Also since your spark plug fails to spark despite voltage being present at the coil wires would indicate the problem is with the ignitor. The ignitor replaces the points and breaks the current supply to the primary windings in the coil which is needed to initiate a high voltage in the secondary windings which then causes a spark to jump the gap in the plug....as far as I understand it. Some ignitors also control timing advance and retard.

Good luck
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Having a friend tow the bike to a mechanic on Friday since a damn tow truck is $100 for five miles for a motorcycle. That IC ignitor is $700 so I just want to be sure before buying it.
 

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I have a 97 Suzuki Marauder vz800. I started the bike it ran for two seconds and immediately shut off after that the engine turns but it just will not start. I have replaced the ignition coils, plug wires, boots and plugs. Still the engine will not start any suggestions.
Sorry if this sounds harsh, but tt appears you have unfortunately replaced a bunch of parts without doing much actual troubleshooting first. If it runs at all, the coils, plugs, wires and boots are obviously working; they either work or they don't. You have a fuel system issue. Either your pump is weak or intermittent, or the fuel shutoff relay is going. Even if the gas cap vent is plugged, it will run more than a few seconds. But leaving it off while doing other checks will take it out of the equation. If you don't have a wiring diagram, pick up a Clymer manual (about $30), a factory manual (about $90), or I can scan and email you at least the wiring diagram from one of my manuals. You'll need it to do some voltage checks on the pump, relay, and to run jumpers to check either/both.
My email is [email protected]
 

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Sorry if this sounds harsh, but tt appears you have unfortunately replaced a bunch of parts without doing much actual troubleshooting first.

You have a fuel system issue.
And yet YOU think you can diagnose the problem without any actual troubleshooting.

Electrical systems can work one minute and then fail the next.
Further actual testing is needed.
 

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And yet YOU think you can diagnose the problem without any actual troubleshooting.

Electrical systems can work one minute and then fail the next.
Further actual testing is needed.
had this happen. coils worked when cold only. wire vibrates and looses connection.
some of the most frustrating and intermittent problems have the stupidest causes. my dad rebuilt an old snowmobile and forgot a seal somewhere. he could pull it till he was blue in the face and not get more than one fire. even tried the age old trick of trying to get it running on ether. the seal was on the crank between the cylinders. it would never pull vacuum more than once. it tortured him for years. We all make silly mistakes. its part of learning. i just hope the mechanic will tell @BrianG what was the issue with it.
 
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