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Hey, I recently got a 1975 TS185 and it needs a new muffler. At the moment it's straight piped, so it runs horribly and is waaay too loud haha

I've been looking online, but I'm having a really hard time telling if a muffler is "good" or not on ebay.. I'm pretty new to all this and was wondering if someone would be willing to give me some advice :)

I can't post links, but I found two mufflers. One is $138 and one is $45. The more expensive one is definitely nicer looking, but how can I make sure that the cheaper one (or either of them rally) will function correctly? I'm willing to put in the work to make it look nicer, but I want to make sure I don't send it on the cheaper one if the more expensive one might be more functional.

Any help is appreciated!
 

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Unfortunatly Ebay can be a bit of a risk and you are at the mercy of the sellers integrity. I would ask the sellers of both the general internal condition and for pics if possible. You may find the seller of the cheaper one a bit reluctant as he is only asking $45.

Have you thought about a wreckers? they even give a limited warrenty on most stuf....well they do here in AU...:bluethum:

Good luck
 

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Finding an "original" muffler probably will be next to impossible because of the age.

While you can't paste links here as a new user, you should be able to manually type them in.

A slight modification might be needed for it to be accepted.....like an extra space after http://

I think it's likely that the muffler is not the only cause of it running bad.

If you haven't already, get the old gas out and fresh gas IN along with a double dose of Berrymans B12 Chemtool in an attempt to clean out the carb and fuel system.

P.S. If you can hold a new "muffler" up and look in one end and see all the way through to light at the other end........then it is not really a muffler.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Finding an "original" muffler probably will be next to impossible because of the age.

While you can't paste links here as a new user, you should be able to manually type them in.

A slight modification might be needed for it to be accepted.....like an extra space after http://

I think it's likely that the muffler is not the only cause of it running bad.

If you haven't already, get the old gas out and fresh gas IN along with a double dose of Berrymans B12 Chemtool in an attempt to clean out the carb and fuel system.

P.S. If you can hold a new "muffler" up and look in one end and see all the way through to light at the other end........then it is not really a muffler.
Sorry for the late reply, I had a crazy busy day.
Here's the expensive muffler:
https://www.ebay.com/i/162652432227

And then the cheap one:
https://www.ebay.com/i/392151706824?chn=ps

What do you think?

Also, I've already emptied the gas and refilled it. I haven't tried any of those carb/fuel system cleaners.

I was at a shop the other day and they were saying that back pressure is huge for 2 strokes. Right now the engine doesn't sound right and loses torque/power in general, maybe something isn't quite right in the carburetor? I wanna clean it out soon for sure

Unfortunatly Ebay can be a bit of a risk and you are at the mercy of the sellers integrity. I would ask the sellers of both the general internal condition and for pics if possible. You may find the seller of the cheaper one a bit reluctant as he is only asking $45.

Have you thought about a wreckers? they even give a limited warrenty on most stuf....well they do here in AU...:bluethum:

Good luck
What kind of pictures do you think I should ask for? I posted the listings above and I'm not sure what else I could see to get more info.
 

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I posted the listings above and I'm not sure what else I could see to get more info.
The expensive one looks to be in much better shape. I'd be tempted to try and negotiate the price down a little.

All carb cleaners are not created equal. Gumout and Berrymans are the best. Some others, like SeaFoam are barely adequate.

I encourage you to NOT mess with the carb unless you absolutely need to.

See if you can find a forum for those old 2-cycles or similar models.
Sometimes the valves get weak and replacing those can almost give you a new engine.......if it has reed valves.

P.S. Even if in perfect running condition, the plug will probably need to be changed out every 50 running hours or so.
If not perfect, then maybe more often.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
The expensive one looks to be in much better shape. I'd be tempted to try and negotiate the price down a little.
Just sent him a message to talk down the price!

I encourage you to NOT mess with the carb unless you absolutely need to.

See if you can find a forum for those old 2-cycles or similar models.
Sometimes the valves get weak and replacing those can almost give you a new engine.......if it has reed valves..
Okay, how long/complicated do you think a valve replacement would be? I'm worried of jumping into something that's way over my head.
 

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Okay, how long/complicated do you think a valve replacement would be? I'm worried of jumping into something that's way over my head.
A 2 cycle with reed valves is a piece of cake to change them.....usually.
But that's kind of old technology and your engine might not have them at all.

A shop manual would be really useful.
 

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A 2 cycle with reed valves is a piece of cake to change them.....usually.
But that's kind of old technology and your engine might not have them at all.

A shop manual would be really useful.
I have a service manual but can't find anything about valves in there... I might not have looked hard enough but is the service manual where that would be or is there a specific "shop" manual?

Also is there any way to order these kinds of parts new and OEM or would I have to go through ebay?
 

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Also is there any way to order these kinds of parts new and OEM or would I have to go through ebay?
No such thing as "new" parts for most anything that is almost 50 years old.

And the terms "service manual" and "shop manual" usually mean the same thing.
Does your manual show how to take the engine apart and put it back together ??
 

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No such thing as "new" parts for most anything that is almost 50 years old.

And the terms "service manual" and "shop manual" usually mean the same thing.
Does your manual show how to take the engine apart and put it back together ??
Hmm I guess you're right.

And the manual does have an "exploded view" of the engine but doesn't have any info other than that about valves. I'll ride over to my local shop and ask them about that soon though. They'll be able to help me look through the manual and find something.

As for the muffler though, do you think it would be bad to go for that cheaper one? I really need to buy a muffler soon (it's way too loud to be riding around right now) but I don't have the experience to be able to know the risk involved with buying a used muffler.

Also, I appreciate all this help man. As a beginner to all this, you are a god send!
 

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1970's Suzuki TS185 appears to be one of the more rare ones, doesn't seem to be much aftermarket parts from the Orient. I've been able to get parts for my 1971 Honda CB100, because many were made overseas although it only ran for a couple years in the early 1970's in US. There is a combination of NOS and current aftermarket parts for the bike. Parts quality varies between very good to mediocre. I only order from those sellers that have an extremely good reputation on the bay.

I have also ordered parts from https://www.cmsnl.com/ in Netherlands. They have many NOS parts and may or may not have the parts you are looking for. So far, they seem to be honest and reliable.
 

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I have also ordered parts from https://www.cmsnl.com/ in Netherlands. They have many NOS parts and may or may not have the parts you are looking for. So far, they seem to be honest and reliable.
Wow that website has everything... Is shipping really expensive? I noticed the prices are really high too. So NOS is an old item that hasn't been used?
 

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NOS is new old stock...usually in its original box. If it has reed valves they will be directly below the intake tract near where the carb sits...according to the interwebs the model does indeed have them.

They are easily removed and replaced but I wouldnt think it would be them unless one is broken....highly unlikely and, as they only allow fuel to enter then prevent it being ejected back out through the carb, if they were faulty it would be very evident by fuel leakage at the carb.

As this is a two stroke where compression is used to force the fuel mix into the combustion chamber via a transfere port you must have excellent crankshaft seals. Any leak here will reduce this force resulting in poor to non existent fuel supply. Also carbon build up is common on two strokes...specifically in the exhaust port which can strangle the engines ability to breath. You may find the carb is gummed up and a good cleaner is, as ER says, worth the effort before ripping into it.

Things to check are...all seals, carb boots for leaks, air filter for flow, fuel/oil ratio and make sure you are accurate....does this bike have a cable operated oil pump.....some later 2 strokes have a device worked by the throttle to add oil so you didnt have to pre mix the stuff.

Compression is paramount on a two stroke any loss esp in the crankcase will starve the engine of fuel.

As for the mufflers the cheaper one looks about the same IMO...and both are said to be in good usable conditon....but people have been known to tell porkies! Unfortunatly there is no way to take a pic of the internals so unless the thing rattles like most of the muffler is rust you should be good to go. Back pressure is needed on two strokes due to the scaveging method of the exiting exhaust gasses drawing in the new fuel mix.

Good luck
 

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As for the muffler though, do you think it would be bad to go for that cheaper one?
I might be a bad thing. Often you get what you pay for and the cheaper one might be rusted out inside and would be much like what you have already.

It's a gamble either way but the odds of being disappointed are MUCH higher if you cheap out.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
It's a gamble either way but the odds of being disappointed are MUCH higher if you cheap out.
You're right, its all a gamble. Right now It's straight piped, are you saying that muffler on Ebay could be so bad that it would be the same as a straight pipe?? That would suck
 

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diericx.........Saw this in your other thread but thought it might be better to post here as this thread seems more detailed regarding your current repairs:

Originally Posted by Sinical
Adequate back pressure is required on any bike. Without it, the overall power will suffer dramatically. It'll also make the power band while shifting much less smooth. Oftentimes, the power can really suffer in the low gears and then pick up steam at WOT (think drag bike w/straight pipes, but no comparison to street application)


*your reply* : I think this is exactly what's happening to me. I chug picking up speed but sometimes when I manage to get up there it starts to accelerate like crazy (or at least crazy relative to what it is in lower gears). Does that sound right?

Yes, it does sound right to me, but I do need to clarify that I've never owned or worked on a 2-stroke and was answering from experience with 4-strokes. Altho' there may be some similarities between 2 & 4 strokes, the motor dynamics are like different animals. Aussie Steve provided some great insights (that I'm also learning from, same as you) about back pressure/2-strokes and we can see the added element of scavenging during the intake/exhaust phase and how back pressure pertains there.

In an attempt to redeem myself......LOL!.......here's a vid that you might find helpful regarding reed valves:


 

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are you saying that muffler on Ebay could be so bad that it would be the same as a straight pipe?? That would suck
Yes, exactly.
The internal baffles usually rust out before the outside goes.

And then some owners cut out the baffles on purpose.

Whatever you get you should ask if it still is 100% in stock condition.
A lot of folks will "forget" to mention things but few will outright LIE.
 

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@Sinical That tutorial is great! I'll look into getting new reed valves and I'm thinking of just replacing the carb, it looks pretty messed up.

@EasyRider I bought one off ebay for $130 and it looks like it's in almost perfect condition! Got new gaskets too so I'll throw that on in a couple days and hopefully it runs a bit better:)
 

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Any leak at the exhaust can cause dificult running issues...2 strokes can be hard to get running right...often it is simply the fuel/oil mix ratio or the slow/fast idle settings...if it has them.
 
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