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Reddit sent me here, hopefully someon can help.

I just got my dad's old Suzuki intruder out of storage, and I'm trying to fix it. The transmission slips into a false neutral, and we think it's because the clutch is gunked up after years of not being used.

This is my first real mechanical work, so sorry if I have some obvious questions, but is there a way to totally drain the gas tank and the transmission without dismantling the bike entirely? If so, does anyone have a guide they can point me to for this?
 

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Yes.

Find where the gas line goes into the carbs.....assuming that it HAS carbs......disconnect it there and put the petcock on PRIme.
If it has a fuel pump, disconnect the line where it goes into the pump.
The carbs should have a drain screw on the bottom too.

The transmission "fluid" is the same oil that goes into the engine; they share a common oil supply.

The way a bike transmission is designed, a true false neutral is REALLY hard to get.
I suggest that you leave that "problem" to last.....until after you get the engine running good.
It might not be a problem at all.

P.S. You do know that N is between 1 and 2.....right ??

At some point, you will need some good fuel system cleaner. Berrymans B12 Chemtool is the best on the market.
 

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Reddit sent me here, hopefully someon can help.

I just got my dad's old Suzuki intruder out of storage, and I'm trying to fix it. The transmission slips into a false neutral, and we think it's because the clutch is gunked up after years of not being used.

This is my first real mechanical work, so sorry if I have some obvious questions, but is there a way to totally drain the gas tank and the transmission without dismantling the bike entirely? If so, does anyone have a guide they can point me to for this?
 

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Your clutch slipping: is it from the start or after you ride a few miles? Mine would slip really bad after 10 miles of driving and it ended up being a clogged return hole in the clutch master cylinder which was caused by rust in the slave cylinder. Should be two holes in the master cylinder the really small one is the return pressure.
 

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Not an answer, but I have a 1400,just got a Clymer manual. Haven't used it yet but it seems to be quite good.might be worth checking out.
 

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I’ve had simmlar issues on mine. It got a hell of a lot better once I changed the fluid same look as yours I’d assume. Bleed out the clutch slave until
It’s clean. Then ride it. Change the engine oil too before going. Throw some carb cleaner in the tank. You and I have the same year of bike. After 5000km aka next season for me I sent it in for a carb tear down and cleaning. What a difference. You’ll be satisfied. The carbs have a fuel pump you can just remove one of the fuel lines and let her pump out. Your tank is under the seat behind the engine. No stress man this is smaller items pm me if you need any more info.


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