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I've narrowed the wierd clacky rattly noises the engine makes (81 GS450) to the cam chain, since they're very random, make different sounds at different times & engine loads, and don't occurr all the time.

Let me preface this by saying THE CLYMER SERVICE MANUAL PHUKKING SUCKS!!! There are so many things missing (like how to tension the cam chain, for example) that the book is basically useless for routine maintenance. For those of you who do not yet own a Clymer manual, don't waste your money. I finally found a shop that sells real Suzuki manuals, so I'm getting one of those in a couple weeks.

Anyway...how do I tension the chain? Anyone have a good step-by-step procedure I can use? I'd like to get it done while the bike is in non-operational status. Thanks!!
 

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This is the procedure to adjust the cam chain tensioner.

1. Loosen the 10 mm locknut.
2. Tighten the lockscrew (should only move about 1/4 turn).
3. Remove the 2 10 mm mounting bolts.
4. Unscrew the lockscrew 1/4 turn until the plunger releases.
5. Push in the plunger while turning the large knurled knob counter
clockwise until the plunger stops.
6. Tighten the lockscrew.
7. Install the tensioner to the engine.
8. Loosen the lockscrew 1/4 turn. You will hear it release.
9. Tighten the locknut.
10. Thats all folks!
 

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Look in the engine section. Many times, the Clymer will have that info there, not in the maintenance section. I thought these had auto tensioners?

Don't overtighten the chain. BIG rookie mistake. Take baby steps, turn it in slightly. Reassemble and run it. Do it again, or until the chain slap stops. If you have the valve cover off, you can gauge how much it needs. I had one old GSX-R that you could shake the cam chain it was so loose. Automatic tensioner spring was toast.

- Nut
 

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Hi Boss! I have a 01 kawasaki klx 300r. I got a hard time starting it and they said my cam chain was stretched. Im planning a DiY project this summer. Any suggestion what is the easiest way to adjust it and not spending any cost for a mechanic.
 

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I doubt you will get a reply the OP posted 19 year ago. The two methods I have experienced are non auto where you undo a lock nut and turn a bolt in till you feel slight resistance. Then back it off a small amount and tighten the lock nut. Typically this type will be found in the centre front of the cylinder/s.

The other type....more common on newer machines....from around 2000...is the auto adjuster and, as the name suggests it is automatic, These are commonly found at the rear of the cylinder/s and need no manual adjustment. Often just as they are about to take up adjustment there can be some cam chain noise but this should disappear once the slack is taken up.

Sometimes the auto adjuster reaches the end of adjustment and there may be a manual tensioner replacement you can fit. I am of the opinion these are not a good idea as the chain may have reached the end of its life and any extra stretching could result in a cam chain snapping with disastrous results. Also you have to consider the chain guides may be reaching the end of their life too.

Sadly cam chains are endless and entail engine strip down to fit a new one in a lot of engines....although many are now being fitted to the outer end of the cylinders.

I would be tempted to carefully grind a pin off and split an existing chain, attach a new one to the old one in order to pull the new one around the crankshaft sprocket and then rivet it back together like you do with drive chains.

I would also question why 'they' suggested the difficult starting was the result of a stretched cam chain short of an obvious noisy one.
 
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