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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
as the title says i just got my 96 gsx600f and i could use some advice


1) i haven't really been on a bike this big before can someone please explain why neutral is between first and second?

2) Also how effective are sliders? will the just protect the bike or will the stop the bike from crushing my leg if i go down?


3) what shoes are the best i was thinking of getting yellow construction worker's boots, but now im thinking it will be harder to shift in them


4) is there a place i can strap the helmet to the bike so i don't have to carry it with me everywhere?

5) do any of you guys know where i can get a owners manual for this bike? (over the internet and free would be the best)

6) what kind of protection do you reccomend? (right now i have a body armor jacket a helmet and i was thinking about buying kneepads/shin guards to wear under my pants)

7) i bought it used with about 18,000 miles on it is there anything that will need to be replaced soon like the chain?

any info you guys could give me would be great didn't take the MSF yet i just want to drive it around before i have to take the test also just finished reading "Proficient Motorcycling" highly reccomend it. they cover alot of stuff people normally wouldn't think twice about
 

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Nice one, i have a 96 gsx600f as well, fine bikes.
As for the neutral question, every bike i have owned has had neutral between 1st and second, it is standard (on jap bikes anyway), where would you prefer to have neutral?
Sliders will only protect the bike and swingarm, unless you have unhealthily scrawny legs that is, sliders don't jut out far from the bike, just enough to stop the engine casing and other vitals from getting trashed if you go down, in most cases i've seen of drops with sliders the fairing has been scratched as well (probably just from the angle of the fall).
Don't really know about the shoes, when i started out i wore a pair of doc martens but since graduating to sports bikes a few years ago i have had proper m/c boots.
As for the helmet i am from coventry and have lived in liverpool for a long time as well therefore i trust no-one to leave my bike alone when parked in the street, a bolted on helmet just means they can rob my bike and legally ride it away with my helmet on!
 

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90 GSX600F

I've got an old american imported version of yours and love riding it.
Noggins/sliders are good but not for your legs, helmet goes with me eveywhere - got a rucksack just to carry it around, people just cut the straps if you leave it on the bike! A good part of M/c trousers will cost you from £80 upward and save you the grief of strappin on knee pads etc as they are already integral and removable for washing - mine also have a lower back support around the waist and zip that i attatch to my jacket to stop the breeze blasting up my back. My boots cost me £130 but are gr8 - fully waterproof and comfy.

Owners books are hard to get for free but i do recomend a Haynes Manual, mine cost me about £17 2 months ago and is really useful.

At 18000 miles it might need a new chain check to see how tight it is fixed and if the is any lateral(sideways) movement in it, also have a look at the rear sprocket and check the teeth, have a look at how much life is on your brake pads - i have to lift the plastic covers off mine to get a good look) and have a look at the state of the oil, if it's like treacle then i suggest a change and a new filter.
 

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1. All bikes I've ever ridden had neutral between 1st and 2nd. I highly recommend the MSF courses to help you get some of the basics down.

2. others answered this well.

3. I would buy boots made for motorcycling. I bought mine on closeout from newenough.com for less than $70.00 and they work very well for riding. No laces to get in the way, and they're designed to make shifting easy.

4. I usually take my helmet with me, depending on where I am at.

5. I think you can get it from the dealer (for $), but I just bought the Clymer service manual and use the maintenence info from it.

6. You're on the right track, but instead of kneeguards, buying purpose-built riding pants is the way to go. I have some that fit right over other pants. Again, check out newenough.com for a good selection.

7. As far as the chain, that bike is almost certainly on its second (or third) chain, depending on how the last owner(s) took care of the chain. It could be in great shape, or falling apart. Get a service manual so you know what to look for on the chain.

Other services to check on:

Tires! Make sure the tread is good and that they're not dry-rotted.

When was the last time the valves were adjusted? They should be done every 4-6K miles.

How long's it been since the break fluid and fork fluid were changed? They should be done every couple years.

How old are the plugs? If you don't know, it's probably worth replacing them cause it's not too hard or expensive.

Overall, that Kat is a good bike and should last a long time. 18K miles is not high at all on them.
 

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I got a 95 Katana 750 about a month ago and have been enjoying it a lot.

1) Take the MSF!!!

3) I wear those work boots, but I am looking for motorcycle boots. Unfortunately I have not found any I like. Well, I did find a pair I liked, but I felt they offered less protection than my work boots.

4) If you have "D" rings on your helmet you can lock it to your bike by taking off the seat and placing the "D" ring over a peg you will find there. Replace the seat and the helmet is locked. Its a pain, but it can be done. Unfortunately I have a quick connect and can't use this feature. Do you know how to take off the seat?

5) Try eBay. The owners manual is out of print for that bike (oldest manual in print is for a 98) so you will need to find someone selling their old one. I lucked out and found a guy selling it the same day I bought the bike
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Well if it were up to me i wouldn't have a neutral (why not just ride the clutch?) but im thinking it would be pretty easy to get the hang of espically with the light. thank you all for your informative answers i think i will go for knee pads as this is my only form of transportation at the moment and i don't want to look like a fool going to school wearing the same pants everyday.

Upon Closer inspection of the chain hs showed that it is black (from oil and dirt im guessing) and there is some rust on it which is telling be this bike has been in the rain before, is there any sections that rust more than others on the 88-98 katana? is there any treatments i can spray on it to help prevent rust? wd40/rust converter/etc


Also the horn is sad i can barely hear it im wondering if its just my bike that needs a new horn or all all of them like that?


And finally the Big Kahuna, I just tried to get it to start, i started it before but its not starting now can any of you tell me what im doing wrong? im on the clutch, in neutral, i tried adjusting the choke to various levels then hitting the ignition switch but it can't get to a start (should i be giving it gas too?) the gas guage is on empty but i can hear gas swishing around in the tank and there is a switch on the left side made for this situation but I don't wanna mess with that cuz i heard you could flood your entire motor and that dosen't sound to fun to me is there a step that im missing? I was told that the plugs were replaced fairly recently, could the battery be going? any info you guys could spare would be greatly appreciated
 

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I would put in fresh gas. Who knows how long that gas has been in there. next, what position is the gas switch in. With so little gas in the tank, it might need to be on the reserve setting (not ON which is the one that can flood the engine).

Rob
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
if the gas reserve switch is that knob of the left side just below the gas tank right now its pointing foward but i tried starting it pointing down, the gas guage shows it as being on empty but it might change if the bike starts(i don't know exactly how this model is setup) also where should the choke be when im starting it, I tried with it choking with it let up and in the middle wheres the best spot? could the engine already be flooded, everytime i try to start it i hear that ignition eh eh eh sound and its less and less each time (if i keep on trying eventually i will hear clicking) so im thinking maybe it is already flooded(im guessing its a lot more detailed that just putting a blow dryer on it for a couple of minutes/can i wait it out or will i have to change oil and stuff like that?) or prehaps the battery needs to be jumped/charged/adjusted?
 

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I 4's need a fully charged battery to start. If it's weak It's doubtfull it will start. Charge the battery and drop in a gallon of premium gas, then see if it starts.
 

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Ice,
Does the bike turn over at all? Does it sound slow when turning over? If the bike turns over at a normal rate, check the condition of the spark plugs. They can cause a no-start and are easy enough to change.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
i don't really know what you mean by turn over but the guy i got it from said the plugs were replaced about 50 miles ago so i don't think its the plugs(although anything is possible) what i think happened was there was no gas getting in the engine(cuz i didn't have it switched to reserve) and i ran down the battery trying to start it(did not take long at all) so i think i'll go get premuim gas and a charger(which I should probally get anyways) i heard that to charge it safely you need a 12 volt charger that pumps out 2-3 amps and charge for 4 hours or so (is this safe or will it overload the battery and I'll be riding on a $2000 timebomb?)
 

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just use regular 87 octain gas. it burns better than a higher rating, cheaper, and probably what your bike was made to run on. as for charging. either use a 1 amp charger for 10 hours or use a 4 amp charger for 4 hours. I have a gsxr-600 and I only use 87. had it to 14,000 rpm and never a problem.
 

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The great octane debate.

Bottom line don't use a higher octane than your engine is designed for, you will just waste money and may even reduce power. Just use the lowest rating you can that doesn't affect performance ( pinging or knocking ).

Higher octane fuel should be used in high compression engines only, high octoane means the fuel will ignite slower and burn slower, not a performance enhancer.
 

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icekillah said:
how bad is it to start the bike in first gear instead of neutral?
If you've got the kickstand up and the clutch pulled in, it's fine. Just don't forget that it's in gear and let go of the clutch before you're ready to take off.

Also, if your battery drained really quickly, it probably is on its way out. Better to replace it now before it leaves you stranded.
 

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Uncle Bob said:
The great octane debate.

Bottom line don't use a higher octane than your engine is designed for, you will just waste money and may even reduce power. Just use the lowest rating you can that doesn't affect performance ( pinging or knocking ).

Higher octane fuel should be used in high compression engines only, high octoane means the fuel will ignite slower and burn slower, not a performance enhancer.
OK, OK, I take it back :) It's imbedded in my brain! My 02 requires a minimum of 90 octane. Not sure what is spec for a 96 Katana. Anyone know for sure?
 

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Gixxerdale said:
Uncle Bob said:
The great octane debate.

Bottom line don't use a higher octane than your engine is designed for, you will just waste money and may even reduce power. Just use the lowest rating you can that doesn't affect performance ( pinging or knocking ).

Higher octane fuel should be used in high compression engines only, high octoane means the fuel will ignite slower and burn slower, not a performance enhancer.
OK, OK, I take it back :) It's imbedded in my brain! My 02 requires a minimum of 90 octane. Not sure what is spec for a 96 Katana. Anyone know for sure?
87 octane on the Kat (stock) Run it on my 95 750, and have no issues.

Some people that have added exhaust, jet kit, ignition advancer etc. report needing higher octane.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
ok guys i just took out my battery and it is burnt black and bone dry inside (this thing is drier than the last pork chop my girl made) it was holding a charge till today so should i fill it up with distilled water or electrolyte(battery acid)? If any of you guys are having trouble I found a very helpful site on motorcycle maitnace it is: http://www.motorcycleanchor.com/motorcycle/howto_main.html)
 

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Your best off getting a new battery if it has been boiled dry like yours has, better for you in the long run, don't want to get shafted miles from home becuase your battery is knackered again. If you insist on filling it up your local m/c shop should stock a weak DI water/acid solution for batterys, only costs £1.50 (or your equivalent $).
As for chargers i picked one up for the car and bike, there is a switch on it that changes voltage accordingly then maintains the battery if left on over time, very useful.
 
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