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Discussion Starter #1
New to the forum here. Just bought a 2005 boulevard S50 VS800 with 13.3K miles for $800. It came with a box of carb parts and the promise that it just needed to be put back together to run fine. The bike had sat in his garage for 4 years...never ran in that time even once. I put it together and...

-Bike makes no power over 1/3rd throttle and has pathetic throttle response. Has fuel, strong sparks and I cleaned the air filters. Bike will idle but not the greatest. Coolant is clean, oil looks like oil. synced the carbs and I quadruple checked the float heights. All carb settings are factory oem set. All valves were at .005" according to factory specs.

-I ran a compression test and it has ~110psi both cylinders. I've used 2 compression testers with the same results. I added oil to each cylinder and they came up to about ~140psi, so we have largely a top end issue. Manual says it should be 188-232psi

-I pulled and disassembled the motor and visually, I can't see any issues. Valves look good (but I have not removed them from the head), no obvious gasket issues, pistons, rings and piston walls look good. cylinder wall looks good, chain tensioners seam to function fine, ect... I obviously haven't been able to check the guides yet.

-No indications that the motor has ever been pulled apart prior to me doing so.


I think getting the head pressure tested is a good start at this point...

Any other ideas? Thanks in advance!
 

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If it isn't sticking valve/s then bore and pistons need to be measured. They may look good but be worn. A rebore and new pistons shouldn't be too much and 800 for an 05 is fairly good IMO. If the rest of the bike is in good nick then you got a bargain....I would do the timing chain tensioner spring while its apart too.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
It shines up nicely! I'm hoping it doesn't turn into a bad purchase haha. Its a comfortable bike for me as a beginner (with road bikes) so I'd love to get it reliable and put some real miles on her.

Tomorrow I will look closer at the valves and seats. They all appear to be sitting where they should be but I will try compressing the springs and see how they pull back. I'll also clean the carbon out of the combustion chambers and look for cracks.

I'll need to pick up a cylinder bore gauge to check that, but still most of the compression loss was above the piston so I'm not too worried about the bore/pistons.

Tensioners seemed to be in excellent shape but i'll look at replacing them anyway if the price isn't ridiculous.

-Any chance this could have been a cam timing issue? Upon disassembly I noticed that with the rear cylinder at tdc on compression stroke only one of the cam gears had the two notches actually parallel with the head. The other was a solid 40 degrees counter clock wise (retarded timing?) from parallel. But that wouldn't explain low compression on the other cylinder so maybe I'm mistaken. No damage to the gears either, they look great.
 

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My first guess would have been stuck rings.

You should have done a "leak down" test before you took it all apart.

If it WAS a sticky ring problem, it might magically run a lot better if you just put it back together.

P.S. A buyer should NEVER accept "It only needs......." anything, more than putting gas into the tank or an oil change because......well you are finding out why.
Some sellers honestly don't know but most know and just aren't telling.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Yeah, so far I'm still not finding any issues with it mechanically on inspection. I am waiting for a valve spring compressor tool still though. I'm hoping your right on the rings.
I've never done a leak down test, but will not hesitate in the future seeing as I'm left pretty confused without it at this point...

Thanks for the info. I'll take a closer look at the rings/bores.
 

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I woudnt think a leaking boot would affect the compression test as it would need the inlet valve/s to be leaking too. You may get a slightly higher reading due to more air entering but even that would seem unlikely.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Finally got the valves out. The intake valve seats all look shiny, clean and uniform.

There is a small amount of pitting on the exhaust valve seats. I cant get a fingernail or even the point of a plastic gun cleaning pick to grab the pits so I don't know if that constitutes an issue or not. What do yall think? The pictured valve seats have been cleaned as best as I can. They did have carbon build-up on them (exhaust seats)...

All valves appear free of any damage. Valve guide clearance hasn't been measured but they have next to zero wiggle. Dammit I should have done a leakdown test lol


 

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They look good...if possible a valve grind/lap would probably not go amiss. The low compression would, IMO, not be caused by any valve/seat in the condition shown. You can do a basic leak down test with the head off. As long as the rest of the motor is left in-situ you can fill each bore with a set depth of oil and leave it overnight. Any major drop indicates a worn bore/piston/rings.

Good luck
 

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Yeah Ken saw a guy do a straight eight that way...admittedly it doesn't allow for any kind of compression but as a basic test for extreme wear then it is an indication.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Quick update. Came across a great deal on a sub 4,000 mile motor out of a 2008. I decided to hell with a rebuild as it would have cost more. Installing the motor hopefully by this weekend. Now I've got a spare bottom end/transmission etc... I can also sell a few components off of the old top end to take some of the financial hurt off. Overall I'm still into the bike about $1,900 and I'm good with that.

Thanks for everyone's input and ideas, I appreciate it.

In the future, a leak down test will always follow a bad compression test.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Got it in. Cynced the carbs and replaced the fuel filter. It runs better but poor throttle response and no top end :( Now I'm second guessing my carb float heights lol.

I'll take it out and run it for a minute at the point of falling on its face, then cut power and pull the plugs to "read" them for whats up with the AFR's.

I've never been a fan but should I run some seafoam in case I missed a carb clog somewhere?

I'll also start testing electrical components. Plugs are new but I'll look at wires, coils and the signal generator deal on the rear fender for starters.

I'm going to be pro at assembling/disassembling this bike...
 

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I've never been a fan but should I run some seafoam in case I missed a carb clog somewhere?
NO.

Seafoam is NOT a good cleaner. It just isn't.
Did you know that the company that sells the stuff is named "Seafoam SALES Company" ??
Sales is about all they are really good for.
There are better stabilizers and much better cleaners available........at about half the price.

Give it double shot of Berrymans B12 Chemtool or Gumout.

AND......if you are testing with no air filter in place, that alone might be causing the problems you are having.
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
Thanks for the advice on the cleaners. I picked up a can of Berrymans today and will try it out.

Air filters have been in place. I probably mentioned it in an earlier post but I did spray them out with a compressor a while back.

Edit: Took the bike out for the full throttle cutoff test. Front cylinder looks rich, rear maybe a bit lean. Tonight I'll go through the ignition system with particular attention to the front cylinder. If that yields nothing, I will pull the carbs again. Thanks for the input thus far everybody.

Front:




Rear:

 

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I would stick with the fuel/carb problem first. If it were electrical you would get missing/backfiring issues...IMO. Also reg/rec problems can sometimes cause similar problems
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I would stick with the fuel/carb problem first. If it were electrical you would get missing/backfiring issues
Sorry I hadn't clarified that in an earlier post. It does miss on top end without a doubt. Lots of sputtering, some popping once it refuses to make power. At any point If I hard throttle it sputters and hesitates as it picks up. I'm still very open to fuel/carb issues though considering one cylinder is rich, one not.

Results of electrical tests were as follows (2005 model):
Primary Coil: 2.3 Left / 2.3 Right (Spec 1.8-2.6)
Secondary Coil: 10,470 Left / 10,370 Right (spec is 16,000-26,000)
Signal Generator: 3.10 (spec is 50-200) Read as infinite when multi meter was set to x1000 as per manual. ie. its really bad.
High voltage leads: 9.1 Left / 9.3 Right (unknown spec)

All connection points were free of corrosion.


So...I will replace coils/wire deals and spark generator. I expect to find a need for carb adjustments as well but one step at a time.

 

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Thats looking positive in a negative way if you get my drift. Maybe it is faulty coil/s. Personally I would replace one thing at a time to save costs. Supply side would also be sus IMO
 
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