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Discussion Starter #21
I get your drift, and I'm glad I've got something pegged down finally.
Yeah, the signal generator is kind of pricey. I'm seeing if the guy I bought the motor from has his still and maybe could give me a good deal on it all.

As for the supply side, I do have the spares in the old engine that may work in this 2008... Fingers are crossed.
 

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No I meant electrical supply to the coils...wiring, connectors, switches etc... could even turn out to be a loose plug cap on the lead. I remember a bike I had years ago refused to start in heavy rain....turned out to be the plug cap shorting to the cylinder head...pushed the bugger miles home too!
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Ahh, I see what you mean. The signal generator and coils are tested without power so bad wiring/connectors wouldn't affect results of the resistance tests. But still that is a valid point. I had to fix a few electrical issues with the horn and multiple signals...could be something more in this wiring. I could run some continuity tests just to be sure. That will have to wait a few days though. I'll keep you posted.

Thanks for the info.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Updates...

The original CDI was fine. These require a special Suzuki made multi meter to read properly.... so now I have a spare.

I did a continuity test through all of the ignition component related harness and everything is fine.

Tried rejetting the mains with no change.

Bought a cheap ultrasonic cleaner to bathe the carbs, no change.

Checked the fuel tank breather line for clogs, it good.

Ive ordered new diaphragms for the carbs as mine have some scratches in the sides. The front carb is the worst and that cylinder was rich. Maybe those scratches are causing vacuum loss and the slide isnt raising to let air in...should get them tomorrow...

All I can say is im happy I bought the bike for $800 up front.
 

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The slide failing to rise would allow less fuel in due to the needle failing to rise out o the main jet. Does this bike have an electric fuel pump? as the fuel filters in these tend to cause problems similar to what you are experiencing. Often the internal filter is non servicable due to it being sealed within the pump body...although many drill them out and run an external filter.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
The needle is only tapered so far and never completely lifts out of the main jet orifice. If the diaphragm is opening partially it may still be getting a some fuel via the main jet. If it isn't opening at all than that would explain why the bike runs fine under 1/4-1/3 throttle as the main jet kicks in at that point.

Yes it does have an electric fuel pump, albeit only 2 to 3 psi. I'd replaced the fuel pump with a used OEM unit with supposedly about 5k miles on it. My old one leaked and after attempting to crack it open...they do not go back together without massive leaks lol.

Anyone know of any tool/method to test the fuel pressure of the pump? I guess that is my next point of inspection if the new diaphragms don't affect any change.

Thanks for the input Aussie Steve!
 

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Yes it does have an electric fuel pump, albeit only 2 to 3 psi.
Anyone know of any tool/method to test the fuel pressure of the pump?
In that situation, the pump is there just to help gravity a bit and flow is more important than pressure.
If it puts out a good flow when the hose is disconnected from the carb it should be OK.

You can try to make a rough test of pressure by closing off the hose with your finger while it is flowing......but be careful of where the fuel sprays.
 

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The flow rate can be checked by having a set amount of fuel delivered in a set amount of time. A glass pyrox jug is great for this and all you need to do is switch on the ignition and have your mobile phone on timer. You will need the specifications, on a fuel injected bike 2 to 3 psi is quite low but on a carburetted one it is probably within spec.

Good luck
 

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I have a VS800GL, very similar to what you have. The carbs have a small fine screen covering the main jet, they could be buggered up. The choke (enricher) line could be kinked or bound up causing too much gas to enter into the carb.

They are very battery dependent, connections must be tight and clean. Place star washers on battery connections to get them really tight.

Keep updating so we can try to help.
 
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